separating hubs from drums - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

oldsub86 · 07-17-2003, 05:01 PM

Another post has caused me to raise this question instead of hijacking the other post.

How have you separated the hub from the drum? I tried to do this a while back and basically gave up and put them back on the truck. I heated with a propane torch and pounded etc to no avail.

What is the secret?

Zeke · 07-17-2003, 05:25 PM

The front drums are riveted to the hub.

oldsub86 · 07-17-2003, 05:58 PM

Where? I don't recall seeing any sort of fasteners?

Capitol68 · 07-17-2003, 07:18 PM

you might need to manually adjust the spring wheel backwards, if it has been awhile a groove can be worn into the drum

da-burb · 07-17-2003, 07:56 PM

You can start with penetrating oil at all the studs and hub and back off the shoes some. Then get a long handled sledge hammer and give it some big time whacks at the out side edge of the drum. The action you make will look like you are pounding it onto the hub. When it lets go it can literally fly off the hub, so don't have anything breakable within 6 feet or so.

and yes, the older front hubs did have the drums rivited to them. Why it would need to be is the real question. GM must have wanted you to be able to stop even though all the studs broke off and the wheel passed you by... if anybody has changed the drum, they would have removed the rivits and never replaced them.

Longhorn Man · 07-17-2003, 08:35 PM

I learned this one the hard way. I actually ripped the face of a front drum trying to get the hub out.
They are definitely rivited.

jhwkns · 07-17-2003, 10:40 PM

I just grind the rivets off, and use a punch to knock them out.

*rickspickuppart* · 07-17-2003, 11:48 PM

the propane torch is'nt enough get it hot w/ an oxy/acc torch around the studs (make sure to back the brakes off, like mentioned above) and they should come off, don't be afraid of the heat it is your friend

oldsub86 · 07-18-2003, 11:36 AM

I have not had trouble getting the whole assembly off of the truck. I was trying to separate the hub and the drum so that I could routinely (sp?) check the brakes without pulling the wheel bearings. I will have a look again for the rivets. I don't have oxy- acetyline (sp?) so propane is about as far as I am going to get with heat. I have had good luck with heating with propane over the years so have not spent the money for a better setup.

da-burb · 07-18-2003, 05:29 PM

I have used the hammer method dozens of time. Give it a try. It has taken as many as 20 hits on the worst rusted drums. They have always come off.

jhwkns · 07-18-2003, 06:33 PM

You should be able to look at your brake linings through the inspection hole in the drum. If there is no hole there should be an oval area that is embossed. Just knock it out with a punch. You'll have to remove the hub/drum assembly to do this.

Longhorn Man · 07-18-2003, 08:23 PM

While you can get an idea peeking through the hole...it hides way too much to count on what you see. (this IMO anywyas)

07-17-2003, 05:01 PM	#1
oldsub86 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 695	separating hubs from drums Another post has caused me to raise this question instead of hijacking the other post. How have you separated the hub from the drum? I tried to do this a while back and basically gave up and put them back on the truck. I heated with a propane torch and pounded etc to no avail. What is the secret? __________________ 1968 Chevy - 292 with a powerglide

07-17-2003, 05:25 PM	#2
Zeke Active Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: L.A. Lower Alabama Posts: 453	The front drums are riveted to the hub. __________________ 1969 C10 350 3spd 1995 GMC 3500 XC 350 dually When Thomas Edison worked late into the night on the electric light, he had to do it by gas lamp or candle. I'm sure it made the work seem that much more urgent. George Carlin

07-17-2003, 05:58 PM	#3
oldsub86 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 695	Where? I don't recall seeing any sort of fasteners? __________________ 1968 Chevy - 292 with a powerglide

07-17-2003, 07:18 PM	#4
Capitol68 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Austin,Tx Posts: 327	you might need to manually adjust the spring wheel backwards, if it has been awhile a groove can be worn into the drum __________________ '68 Fleet LWB orig 307 .030 over GM Hei/w Accel Super coil orig. stock TH 400. _______________________ “What we do for ourselves dies with us. What we do for others and the world remains and is immortal.” Albert Pine English author d.1851

07-17-2003, 07:56 PM	#5
da-burb "Ochre Ogre" Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Springfield, MN Posts: 3,558	You can start with penetrating oil at all the studs and hub and back off the shoes some. Then get a long handled sledge hammer and give it some big time whacks at the out side edge of the drum. The action you make will look like you are pounding it onto the hub. When it lets go it can literally fly off the hub, so don't have anything breakable within 6 feet or so. and yes, the older front hubs did have the drums rivited to them. Why it would need to be is the real question. GM must have wanted you to be able to stop even though all the studs broke off and the wheel passed you by... if anybody has changed the drum, they would have removed the rivits and never replaced them. __________________ Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087

07-17-2003, 08:35 PM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I learned this one the hard way. I actually ripped the face of a front drum trying to get the hub out. They are definitely rivited.

07-17-2003, 10:40 PM	#7
jhwkns Registered Cruiser Join Date: May 2002 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 2,230	I just grind the rivets off, and use a punch to knock them out. __________________ I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

07-17-2003, 11:48 PM	#8
rickspickuppart Account Suspended Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 1,284	the propane torch is'nt enough get it hot w/ an oxy/acc torch around the studs (make sure to back the brakes off, like mentioned above) and they should come off, don't be afraid of the heat it is your friend

07-18-2003, 11:36 AM	#9
oldsub86 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 695	I have not had trouble getting the whole assembly off of the truck. I was trying to separate the hub and the drum so that I could routinely (sp?) check the brakes without pulling the wheel bearings. I will have a look again for the rivets. I don't have oxy- acetyline (sp?) so propane is about as far as I am going to get with heat. I have had good luck with heating with propane over the years so have not spent the money for a better setup. __________________ 1968 Chevy - 292 with a powerglide

07-18-2003, 05:29 PM	#10
da-burb "Ochre Ogre" Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Springfield, MN Posts: 3,558	I have used the hammer method dozens of time. Give it a try. It has taken as many as 20 hits on the worst rusted drums. They have always come off. __________________ Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087

07-18-2003, 06:33 PM	#11
jhwkns Registered Cruiser Join Date: May 2002 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 2,230	You should be able to look at your brake linings through the inspection hole in the drum. If there is no hole there should be an oval area that is embossed. Just knock it out with a punch. You'll have to remove the hub/drum assembly to do this. __________________ I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

07-18-2003, 08:23 PM	#12
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	While you can get an idea peeking through the hole...it hides way too much to count on what you see. (this IMO anywyas) Attached Images



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