C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Junkpyl · 01-07-2014, 09:10 PM

haven't been in here for a while due to life getting busy and truck stuff had to take a backseat.
I have recently saved a very clean 1968 Chevy cab and chassis from the crusher. Had I waited 2 weeks longer, it would have ended up with the truck I needed some parts off of. I already have a nice daily driver C30 flatbed and the running gear on the 68 is pretty haggard so I have been thinking what to do with it.
I was out working a few weeks ago and came across a SWB fleetside bed that was laying on the ground in a field. I asked the landowner if he wanted to get rid of it and he said yes, $25 and it's yours!!
Did I mention the bed is the same original silver as the truck? So I have made up my mind to create a short bed shop truck because the patina on this truck is really nice.
I have converted 3/4 to 1/2 before but never a one ton. I assume the half ton control arms and hardware will bolt right up to the crossmember with no issue but the rear section of the frame is my concern. Normally a long to short conversion would mean removing a section of frame under the bed and cab area but since I need to change the spring hangers to the later style and ditch the cast iron ones wouldn't it be easier to just move the hangers forward on the frame and drill new holes? It's going to be a static drop with a flip in the back and spindles and springs in the front. I know I will have to notch the frame and maybe relocate the pads on the axle to match the width.
Any suggestions?

hugger6933 · 01-07-2014, 11:06 PM

I have a suggestion but you may not like it find a short roller and move the stuff over to. I have two longs that I am changing to shorts and instead of cutting and all of the other I am just putting short frames under them. I don't have a lack of tools or the lack of know how either I own a body shop. I f I am not mistaken you will have to come up with your own rear design as the rear rails if that was a cab chassis was stright.

**special-K** · 01-08-2014, 12:31 AM

Doesn't the frame make a big rise behind the cab?

67chevy1series · 01-08-2014, 01:28 AM

the frame rails are huge! i would just put a 1/2 ton frame under it...

Tx Firefighter · 01-08-2014, 06:17 AM

I did the exact same deal a few years ago. For me, it was easier to use a short frame.

Then I faked the patina on the bed to match.

Junkpyl · 01-08-2014, 10:21 AM

Thank you for the responses everyone. I would prefer to find a swb rolling chassis and swap everything over but they seem to be hard to find and pricey when they do surface. I had to sell my welder and all of my fabrication tools to fund a move back to Arizona to accept a job so I'm limited to what I can do right now. Tx Firefighter, your truck looks awesome! Pretty much exactly what I was building and had to sell as well to fund the trip but mine was based on a longhorn.

**WIDESIDE72** · 01-11-2014, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I did the exact same deal a few years ago. For me, it was easier to use a short frame.

Then I faked the patina on the bed to match.

Im trying to make out what it says on the door...

Do you still have this truck?

**WIDESIDE72** · 01-11-2014, 03:08 PM

[QUOTE=Tx Firefighter;6459327]I did the exact same deal a few years ago. For me, it was easier to use a short frame.

Then I faked the patina on the bed to match.

BTW, be careful not to exceed the capacity of your cab lift by leaving the front sheet metal on!

Junkpyl · 01-11-2014, 03:27 PM

The scrapyard spray painted yard identification numbers on the door and some kind of permanent paint marker on the hood. I already took it down to clean metal on the hood trying to remove it and the lettering is still there. anyone have a suggestion as to how to remove the spray paint from the doors without damaging the patina? I want to create a logo on both sides and then distress it but have to get rid of the graffiti first.

**WIDESIDE72** · 01-11-2014, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkpyl

The scrapyard spray painted yard identification numbers on the door and some kind of permanent paint marker on the hood. I already took it down to clean metal on the hood trying to remove it and the lettering is still there. anyone have a suggestion as to how to remove the spray paint from the doors without damaging the patina? I want to create a logo on both sides and then distress it but have to get rid of the graffiti first.

I assume you tried paint thinner?

Junkpyl · 01-11-2014, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

I assume you tried paint thinner?

No I tried a little non acetone nail polish remover on the spray itself but was afraid to use anything stronger. Never have tried to remove paint from paint and didn't have any thinner on hand. Won't it take off the original paint with it?

BlacklandCamper · 01-08-2014, 05:31 PM

Y'all keep "converting" 3/4 and 1 ton truck to half ton short beds, the value of our original long beds will go up.

If you dont want that flat bed, I'd be happy to put it on my C20.

Junkpyl · 01-08-2014, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlacklandCamper

Y'all keep "converting" 3/4 and 1 ton truck to half ton short beds, the value of our original long beds will go up.

If you dont want that flat bed, I'd be happy to put it on my C20.

They just might LOL. I've always been a longbed man myself and was going to slap a longhorn bed on it like the one I had to sell but my spare longhorn bed is still in Arkansas and this shorty I found matches the truck like it came off of it. I can keep the patina.

It didn't come with a bed or you would be first in line.

**WIDESIDE72** · 01-08-2014, 09:38 PM

Keep looking for a factory swb frame. They are still out there. I have bought and sold one 67, two 69's and a 72 in the past few years. Just sold a rolling 69 for $400. I kept a 70 that i swapped 72 front crossmember and rear axle out of a lwb under.h

**special-K** · 01-10-2014, 10:55 AM

You could always find a C/10 lwb frame and shorten it. They can be had easier and cheaper than a swb.

**Joesjunk** · 01-10-2014, 02:50 PM

I like the factory silver on that 1 ton, lets see the silver box you found. Im a sucker for 1 tons, but if you have a short box that matches the patina it would look pretty good made into a pickup

Junkpyl · 01-11-2014, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joesjunk

I like the factory silver on that 1 ton, lets see the silver box you found. Im a sucker for 1 tons, but if you have a short box that matches the patina it would look pretty good made into a pickup

Not the greatest picture but its buried in my garage.the bed is really nice overall. It was dropped on its rockers so they need to be pulled back down and hammer out a few spots of damage. The gate is fairly wasted but I'm still going to try and massage it a little. I even got the rear step bumper with the Flagstaff dealer stamp in it as well. Both trucks came from the same dealer here in town. Wish the frame was still with the bed.

Junkpyl · 01-11-2014, 02:21 PM

Just an afterthought, I'm on the fence as to what to do with the original cab lights. I would never take them off if it was to stay a dually but I'm having a conflict because its going short bed. If I remove them it's going to affect the patina because of the good paint under them and having to fill the holes. Opinions?

**WIDESIDE72** · 01-11-2014, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkpyl

Just an afterthought, I'm on the fence as to what to do with the original cab lights. I would never take them off if it was to stay a dually but I'm having a conflict because its going short bed. If I remove them it's going to affect the patina because of the good paint under them and having to fill the holes. Opinions?

Those look to be recent additions (?)

Is that surface rust or primer on top?

If you have access to a welder, you could plug those holes and wire wheel the paint off and prime like the rest of the roof or let it go for a little while and it will be surface rust like the rest very shortly!

If you dont have a welder to plug the holes i would leave the lights as is or you could buy some trim plugs for the larger holes and silicone the small screw holes. Be sure to keep an eye on them if the truck is parked outside.

Junkpyl · 01-11-2014, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by special-K

You could always find a C/10 lwb frame and shorten it. They can be had easier and cheaper than a swb.

I have considered that but I sold my welder and all of my fab tools to fund the trip back to AZ. living on a limited budget as to what I can do with this truck right now until I can throw more money at it. The only body work I will need to do is hammer out what I can and scrub it with some CLR so that will save me a heap of money.

**special-K** · 01-11-2014, 02:30 PM

I wish I was moving back to Flag. I lived in Mountainaire over 30 years ago. Loved it. Didn't take me long to end up with 4-5 old GM trucks to play with,either! I'm jealous!

Junkpyl · 01-11-2014, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by special-K

I wish I was moving back to Flag. I lived in Mountainaire over 30 years ago. Loved it. Didn't take me long to end up with 4-5 old GM trucks to play with,either! I'm jealous!

That's awesome! I love Mountainaire. I'm sure it has changed substantially since you left but it is still a small town type environment. I lived in the valley from 76 to 2010 then moved to Mena Arkansas to help my mother but couldn't find any stable work. Moved to Flag to take a job July of 2012. Love it here.

**WIDESIDE72** · 01-11-2014, 02:52 PM

That will be a cool truck as a swb 1/2 ton! I am going a similar route with a turquoise (?) 70 Longhorn. The cab and front sheet metal are excellent but the bed is pretty beat up. I already have a 72 swb chassis, and light green step fenders. Unfortunately the bed sides i have are dark blue/surface rust and tailgate is white. I will call her "Patches".

**WIDESIDE72** · 01-11-2014, 02:54 PM

Oh, forgot to mention drivetrain is the original 78k mile BBC 400 that was propane powered for majority of its life and a 400 auto (might get swapped to 700r4 since i have 3.73's in the 1/2 ton rear.

**WIDESIDE72** · 01-11-2014, 03:03 PM

If i ever come across a 3/4 ton with a nice cab and coils in the rear, my plan would be to swap it to a swb frame and leave the 8 lug suspension (either that or find a swb chassis with leaf springs.)

There is a light green truck that i have seen on here that they did this with.

01-07-2014, 09:10 PM	#1
Junkpyl Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Scottsdale Arizona Posts: 125	C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed haven't been in here for a while due to life getting busy and truck stuff had to take a backseat. I have recently saved a very clean 1968 Chevy cab and chassis from the crusher. Had I waited 2 weeks longer, it would have ended up with the truck I needed some parts off of. I already have a nice daily driver C30 flatbed and the running gear on the 68 is pretty haggard so I have been thinking what to do with it. I was out working a few weeks ago and came across a SWB fleetside bed that was laying on the ground in a field. I asked the landowner if he wanted to get rid of it and he said yes, $25 and it's yours!! Did I mention the bed is the same original silver as the truck? So I have made up my mind to create a short bed shop truck because the patina on this truck is really nice. I have converted 3/4 to 1/2 before but never a one ton. I assume the half ton control arms and hardware will bolt right up to the crossmember with no issue but the rear section of the frame is my concern. Normally a long to short conversion would mean removing a section of frame under the bed and cab area but since I need to change the spring hangers to the later style and ditch the cast iron ones wouldn't it be easier to just move the hangers forward on the frame and drill new holes? It's going to be a static drop with a flip in the back and spindles and springs in the front. I know I will have to notch the frame and maybe relocate the pads on the axle to match the width. Any suggestions? Attached Images

01-07-2014, 11:06 PM	#2
hugger6933 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Marianna Arkansas Posts: 7,263	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed I have a suggestion but you may not like it find a short roller and move the stuff over to. I have two longs that I am changing to shorts and instead of cutting and all of the other I am just putting short frames under them. I don't have a lack of tools or the lack of know how either I own a body shop. I f I am not mistaken you will have to come up with your own rear design as the rear rails if that was a cab chassis was stright.

01-08-2014, 12:31 AM	#3
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,861	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed Doesn't the frame make a big rise behind the cab? __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

01-08-2014, 01:28 AM	#4
67chevy1series Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: a t w a t e r cali 95301 Posts: 10,713	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed the frame rails are huge! i would just put a 1/2 ton frame under it...

01-08-2014, 06:17 AM	#5
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed I did the exact same deal a few years ago. For me, it was easier to use a short frame. Then I faked the patina on the bed to match. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

01-08-2014, 10:21 AM	#6
Junkpyl Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Scottsdale Arizona Posts: 125	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed Thank you for the responses everyone. I would prefer to find a swb rolling chassis and swap everything over but they seem to be hard to find and pricey when they do surface. I had to sell my welder and all of my fabrication tools to fund a move back to Arizona to accept a job so I'm limited to what I can do right now. Tx Firefighter, your truck looks awesome! Pretty much exactly what I was building and had to sell as well to fund the trip but mine was based on a longhorn. Attached Images

01-11-2014, 03:08 PM	#8
WIDESIDE72 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Cedar Park, Texas Posts: 7,494	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed [QUOTE=Tx Firefighter;6459327]I did the exact same deal a few years ago. For me, it was easier to use a short frame. Then I faked the patina on the bed to match. BTW, be careful not to exceed the capacity of your cab lift by leaving the front sheet metal on!

01-11-2014, 03:27 PM	#9
Junkpyl Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Scottsdale Arizona Posts: 125	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed The scrapyard spray painted yard identification numbers on the door and some kind of permanent paint marker on the hood. I already took it down to clean metal on the hood trying to remove it and the lettering is still there. anyone have a suggestion as to how to remove the spray paint from the doors without damaging the patina? I want to create a logo on both sides and then distress it but have to get rid of the graffiti first. Attached Images

01-08-2014, 05:31 PM	#12
BlacklandCamper Registered User Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Farmersville, TX Posts: 238	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed Y'all keep "converting" 3/4 and 1 ton truck to half ton short beds, the value of our original long beds will go up. If you dont want that flat bed, I'd be happy to put it on my C20. __________________ Grunt: 1971 C20 Custom Camper. Runs/Drives/Kinda stops. 350Ci, TH350. 4.10:1 D60. Eight Lug LWB is more better. Hell no its not fast! Donkey: 93 Nissan D21, the farm truck. My 1/2 ton SWB. The Indomitable Datsun. 1st BN 3rd MAR. '00-'04

01-08-2014, 09:38 PM	#14
WIDESIDE72 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Cedar Park, Texas Posts: 7,494	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed Keep looking for a factory swb frame. They are still out there. I have bought and sold one 67, two 69's and a 72 in the past few years. Just sold a rolling 69 for $400. I kept a 70 that i swapped 72 front crossmember and rear axle out of a lwb under.h

01-10-2014, 10:55 AM	#15
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,861	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed You could always find a C/10 lwb frame and shorten it. They can be had easier and cheaper than a swb. __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

01-10-2014, 02:50 PM	#16
Joesjunk Senior Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Independence MO. Posts: 7,691	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed I like the factory silver on that 1 ton, lets see the silver box you found. Im a sucker for 1 tons, but if you have a short box that matches the patina it would look pretty good made into a pickup __________________ 72 3/4t Custom Deluxe 402/auto 66k Original paint 71 3/4t 4x4 Custom Deluxe 10k original miles Original paint 71 3/4t Cheyenne 402 70k original paint 72 3/4t 4x4 Custom deluxe 72 3/4t 4x4 Custom deluxe 91k original paint 72 Cheyenne/30 Dually 69 Camaro SS396 4-speed 13 GMC 2500HD Duramax I bought new 05 Jeep Wrangler "Willys Edition" 12k miles (I bought new) 85 3/4 ton 4x4 Scottsdale 33k miles original paint 86 1 ton 4x4 SRW Silverado 454 restored 80 1 ton 4x4 SRW Silverado 9,434 original miles!! original paint 95 GMC 1 ton dually 4x4 my dad bought new 95 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4, regular cab 454, 31k original miles 2002 2500HD 4x4 regular cab 6.0L 67k miles 2002 2500HD 4x4 regular cab 8.1L 28k miles 2003 GMC 2500HD 4x4 regular cab Diesel 93k miles 67-72 Parts for sale

01-11-2014, 02:21 PM	#18
Junkpyl Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Scottsdale Arizona Posts: 125	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed Just an afterthought, I'm on the fence as to what to do with the original cab lights. I would never take them off if it was to stay a dually but I'm having a conflict because its going short bed. If I remove them it's going to affect the patina because of the good paint under them and having to fill the holes. Opinions? Attached Images

01-11-2014, 02:30 PM	#21
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,861	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed I wish I was moving back to Flag. I lived in Mountainaire over 30 years ago. Loved it. Didn't take me long to end up with 4-5 old GM trucks to play with,either! I'm jealous! __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

01-11-2014, 02:52 PM	#23
WIDESIDE72 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Cedar Park, Texas Posts: 7,494	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed That will be a cool truck as a swb 1/2 ton! I am going a similar route with a turquoise (?) 70 Longhorn. The cab and front sheet metal are excellent but the bed is pretty beat up. I already have a 72 swb chassis, and light green step fenders. Unfortunately the bed sides i have are dark blue/surface rust and tailgate is white. I will call her "Patches".



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01-11-2014, 02:54 PM	#24
WIDESIDE72 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Cedar Park, Texas Posts: 7,494	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed Oh, forgot to mention drivetrain is the original 78k mile BBC 400 that was propane powered for majority of its life and a 400 auto (might get swapped to 700r4 since i have 3.73's in the 1/2 ton rear.

01-11-2014, 03:03 PM	#25
WIDESIDE72 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Cedar Park, Texas Posts: 7,494	Re: C30 CC to a SWB C10 info needed If i ever come across a 3/4 ton with a nice cab and coils in the rear, my plan would be to swap it to a swb frame and leave the 8 lug suspension (either that or find a swb chassis with leaf springs.) There is a light green truck that i have seen on here that they did this with.

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