Frame/suspension to bag it.

[Rednek13x]

Right now I have a 1957 chevy 3/4 ton long bed. It's got lots of patina and some rust. So well, not a show truck. Now it is a blast to cruise around in around town, down the country road what have ya... But it's lacking just about everything else that I like. Like accelerating fast, going over 50mph, burnouts, sound of a v8 and having that nice stance.

Here's my question, in a few months I will be building a mild 350 for it. But what I am going to try and do, instead of putting the engine in the 3/4 ton frame, find a 1/2 ton frame. Probably a short bed. Or a long bed if I can find a long fleet side. And it's going to be on air ride. I want it to sit on the ground when parked and still have a decent ride height for driving or getting out of driveways.

Would I be better off with a 55-59 halfton with camaro clip, and build my own 4link and notch.

Or would I be better off with 55-59 half ton with porterbuilt front and build my own rear.

Or I was thinking find a 67-72 half ton frame with ifs on the front already, and set up for a 350. And build my rear.

So what I'm looking for is opinions why to go what route, and what will work to get the stance that I am looking for.

All the help is appreciated, I'd like to start looking for parts to start building this spring.

[Flames97]

Curious why you don't want to use the frame you have? The only real difference I can see is that the 3/4 ton frame is 3/16" thick and the 1/2 ton is 1/8" thick. At least from the two frames I've had that's what I found. I'm currently using a 3200/3600 long bed frame that I cut down to short bed. 3200 and 3600 frames are the same( I wasn't positive on this so I looked at a page in the assembly manual), length may vary depending on what long bed length you have. And if you want a short bed just cut it down. Looking forward to seeing your build.
-Aaron

[Rednek13x]

Theres two reasons, 1 i wont be using anything but the frame rails, and i should be able to find a short bed frame for pretty cheap. and 2, that way while i am building the frame, i can still drive and enjoy my truck, until i have to swap the cab over.

And that way, i will in the end have a 3/4 ton frame with an inline 6 and all good mechanicals that i can do something with. maybe a COE flat bed or something.

[Flames97]

Makes sence, I was kinda wondering if you wanted be able to drive it while you get the other ready. It will be nice to just be able to pull the body off and set it right down on a frame that's already to go.

[Flames97]

Btw, if I had the money and I was starting at the beginning I would go porterbilt front. From what I've seen on here it looks great. And you could always do your own 4 link in the back. Nice thing about Porterbilt front is that it's bolt in. camaro clip has to welded. So depending on your skills and ability. But again the porter bolt stuff already has everything figured out. Just bolt in. Just my thoughts.

[Rednek13x]

iv also talked and looked at the scotts hot rod front. Looks very nice, super slam, come with everything, arms spindles bags rack/pinion ect. Also bolt in.

[rollinrooster]

Originally Posted by Rednek13x

iv also talked and looked at the scotts hot rod front. Looks very nice, super slam, come with everything, arms spindles bags rack/pinion ect. Also bolt in.

I have a scotts hot rod 90 degree under dash brake booster setup and love
it!! Their stuff is top notch (killer welds) and super nice guys to deal with.

[Scottshotrods]

Originally Posted by Rednek13x

iv also talked and looked at the scotts hot rod front. Looks very nice, super slam, come with everything, arms spindles bags rack/pinion ect. Also bolt in.

To add a couple of things here.We have our weld in ifs for your truck and we have our bolt in for your truck.Both of these frontends will allow you to use your factory frame you have now.If you want to keep your 3/4 ton frame or if you want to swap to a 1/2 frame.There is no need to cut the frame rails off with our ifs for your truck.

For the rear of your truck we have our weld in 4-bar kit with bags and weld in step notch for your frame.

If you have any questions at all you can call or p/m or e-mail if you would like to

justin@scottshotrods.com
(805)485-0382

Justin

[N2TRUX]

If it were me I would avoid the clip conversion. That has been done by many in the past with good results, but that was before the aftermarket offered quality conversion kits. There is so much time and money saved with a direct fit kit that it makes good sense (cents too) to go that way.