Tie Rod won't torque?

[swissarmychainsaw]

I am replacing all the tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm on my 1975 GMC c15 Rwd 350/350.

I got everything back together, all aligned (shade tree version), and the last
tie rod (outer, passenger side) when I go to torque it down, the stud turns!

I can see the cotter pin hole moving around with the castle nut.

Does this mean I have a bad tie rod, or a bad Steering Knuckle?

I'm thinking that the two mating surfaces of the Tapered stud (tie rod) and the Knuckle are what keep it from turning? So am I not getting enough contact, or is it just a bad tie rod?

Thanks!
Nick

[buddy_1]

Try taking a pry bar and pry up on the rod to force it into the knuckle while tightening.

[Tx Firefighter]

What kind of quality level are the new tie rod ends ? Top of the line or inexpensive ? Could be one machined wrong.

Usually, when one spins, you can lightly tap the tie rod straight down to more firmly seat it into the spindle as you tighten the nut. That will often get the tapers to seat firmly with each other.

[swissarmychainsaw]

Thanks for the quick responses guys.

I use Moog Idler/Pitman from rockauto; my lack of planning let to using the high-end Napa Tie Rod ends. They just say "Napa Chasis" on the box, but they are supposed to be Moog type of quality. And grease-able of course.

Nick

[mongoose]

clamp both together with some vise grips, seems to always work for me.

[swissarmychainsaw]

I'll try all these things.

This seems to be a common issue?

The other side went on no problem...

Thanks again!

N

[swissarmychainsaw]

The guy at the parts store said he would exchange it, so I might give that a try.

Going to compare it and see if the mating surface looks any better.

The knuckle looks ok, the taper is smooth and not pitted.

The Tie rod stud looks pitted and has a small flaw, well see it that's enough
to make the difference.





Actually this pic makes it look like there was only contact at the very tip of the taper.

[Tx Firefighter]

I'd put it back down into the spindle, tap it firmly with a small hammer or mallet to seat it, and see if it torques out okay.

[swissarmychainsaw]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I'd put it back down into the spindle, tap it firmly with a small hammer or mallet to seat it, and see if it torques out okay.

I tried that. Hit it with a hammer to get it seated, tried hitting it while turning the nut, tried a pry bar to force it down while turning, etc.
I don't have giant vice grips or I would have tried that.

Since the parts store is only a mile away I'm going to give that a shot.

I'll post up results later tonight.

Thanks again!

Remember, never paint those parts until AFTER you make sure they fit!

[swissarmychainsaw]

Awesome!

The replacement part worked at expected. Threaded it up, slipped it into the taper on the knuckle, and she torqued right down to spec!

The super news is that this was the last step of my front end rebuild.
Just went for a victory lap around the block!
My shade tree alignment worked great, does not pull in either direction, goes down the road straight!

The only weird thing I noticed is that when you turn the wheel left of right it tends to stay there, it should "return to neutral" or the middle of the steering.
It's like the steering all feels just a little big tight.
Is this normal? Will it break in or what?

Everything was torqued down to spec.

Thanks again for your help all! My truck finally feels good again!

Nick

[LONGHAIR]

Returning to center is a function of caster, which would not have been affected by a simple tie-rod change. Are you sure it was ok in the first place?

[swissarmychainsaw]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

Returning to center is a function of caster, which would not have been affected by a simple tie-rod change. Are you sure it was ok in the first place?

No, the whole front end was a mess. This truck is new to me and the work I did has made it much better!

I'm thinking of going for an alignment if for nothing else than to protect my new tires.

[cory d]

i give it a few taps or clamp it