s10 frame swap guys...get in here

[whammer33024]

i know everyone says find a longbox s10 frame to do the swap with because its the easiest in regards to wheel placement in the rear. but why couldn't you follow the template in the link below? i plan on running a 4 link so the leaf spring mounts aren't even a concern. am i missing something? couldn't i just move the axle back about 8 inches and be okay? on like page 3 or 4, he adds about 10 inches to the back of the frame for extra bed mounts and to make a hitch. please, if i'm missing something point it out. is there a reason i can't move the rear axle back 8 or so inches? the shortbed s10s are just so much more readily available in my area...only reason i'm asking

http://www.killbillet.com/showthread...-(step-by-step)

[dubds10]

Provided you are a ticketed welder and a good one at that, you can go any way you want. It's just more fab work and for some not worth it.

[55metalmonkey]

Originally Posted by dubds10

Provided you are a ticketed welder and a good one at that, you can go any way you want. It's just more fab work and for some not worth it.

dubds10, having researched this on several occasions there is absolutly no regulations that state that you need to be a ticketed welder to weld on a vehicle frame (in BC or Canada) that I could find although the US may be different. The only thing I could find is that any alterations need to undergo a structural integrity inspection by a licenced and qualified facility preferably prior to the vehicle being assembled, then an alighnment (with paperwork) then a complete vehicle safety when the vehicle is fully assembled and road worthy.

[dubds10]

Originally Posted by 55metalmonkey

dubds10, having researched this on several occasions there is absolutly no regulations that state that you need to be a ticketed welder to weld on a vehicle frame (in BC or Canada) that I could find although the US may be different. The only thing I could find is that any alterations need to undergo a structural integrity inspection by a licenced and qualified facility preferably prior to the vehicle being assembled, then an alighnment (with paperwork) then a complete vehicle safety when the vehicle is fully assembled and road worthy.

It any structural work has to be done it requires a VI and I could have sworn frame work has to be done by a ticketed welder and up to standard engineering practices which is the term most used these days, but I haven't checked all the reg/codes in North America lately. Either way I don't endorse backyard welders doing hack jobs and driving down the highway. Seen lots of questionable welding in the car scene over the years. Hence why I say ticketed (experienced) as they at least have proper training and ability has been tested. Didn't say you have to be by law.

[55metalmonkey]

Originally Posted by dubds10

It any structural work has to be done it requires a VI and I could have sworn frame work has to be done by a ticketed welder and up to standard engineering practices which is the term most used these days, but I haven't checked all the reg/codes in North America lately. Either way I don't endorse backyard welders doing hack jobs and driving down the highway. Seen lots of questionable welding in the car scene over the years. Hence why I say ticketed (experienced) as they at least have proper training and ability has been tested. Didn't say you have to be by law.

Understood and agree with you for the most part, Although my qualification is long expired and I haven't bothered re-qualifying since I'm not employed as a welder anymore I fully encourage getting a qualified person or at a minimum very experienced person to weld on a vehicle and get it properly inspected.

I did a ton of leg work before I cut into my frame and talked to the inspection facilities in town about the steps/ paperwork required.... mostely because as far as I'm concerned a frame mod'd vehicle that doesn't have the structural integrety report isn't worth anything and last thing I wanted in the end was for ICBC to come back after an accident and say "too bad, so sad, you're not covered, good luck"

[nikwho]

You could definitely move the axle back! You can get away with starting with any of the S10 frames. Some are just more work than others to use the factory suspension and such. If you are running a four link (as I am) it doesn't really matter which wheel base you start with, with a couple of caveats. If you plan on mounting your cab low, with the shorter wheel base you may find that you will need to move the factory S10 fuel tank back. Also, you will need to plan on a longer drive shaft.
I started with a '94 extra cab S10, which, if I remember correctly has a wheel base of 122.9". A short bed '47-'55 (1st) has a wheel base of 116". '55(2nd) - '59 short beds have a 114" Wheel base. i think that the long bed standard cab S10's have a 117" wheel base. So, you can adjust the bed/rear fenders a bit to absorb that without moving any suspension or mounting points. If your going to run rear leaf springs, that would save you lots of work. So I will be moving the axle forward on my truck forward at least 8". I say at least because I think that I am going to shorten the wheel base and bed length a bit on my truck. I may end up moving the axle more like 11" forward. I will be C-notching my frame and building a 4-link so the only thing I'll need to do is move my fuel tank. I will probably just buy a '69 Mustang fuel tank and mount it between my frame rails in the back of the axle like I did on my '59. Better weight distribution as well. Sorry to get long winded here, but if i remember correctly, in the thread on killbillit that you provided, i believe that guy just removed the rivets from his forward spring hangars and moved them to his desired location. Then he cut the back of the frame sections off and swapped them side to side to move the shackle bushing location. I think that he had started with the shorter standard cab short bed, so he was lengthening the wheel base. Anyway, it may be a bit more work, but you can make any of the frames work. These frames are also easy to shorten as well because they are two pieces welded together from the factory so you can shorten them easily to keep all of the factory suspension mounting locations.

hope that helped.

Nik

[av8tr33337]

I know the build you are talking about. That guy lives a few miles from me and I would say that the reason he went with a short bed and moved the rear axle back is because that's what he had to work with. His Name is 62ChevyII and he is also a member here so look him up and ask questions. I like the way he cut 10 inches off the back and then swapped the two pieces around so he could still use the factor spring perch holes. I don't know about all the talk of ticketed welders and stuff. Here in Kansas I don't even need a safety inspection as long as its a Kansas titled vehicle all I have to do is show up to tag office and get it put in my name. I started with an extended cab S10 and cut it down 5 inches at the factory splice. I made all my own cab, bed and running board mounts. I'm no expert welder, but I did all my own welding, and I'm confident in my ability. I have lots of pics and videos on my build thread. Hope you find them useful.

[RedneckRodder]

The rear kick up in the frame, beginning just forward of the rear spring hangers, will be your biggest obstacle with the shorter wheelbase frame. I extended (8") a short wheelbase frame to fit mine, and mounted my cab 1" off the frame. The bottom of the rear panel on the cab is less than 1/2" forward of the kick up with the added 8". I would think this would require modification to the cab (clearance for the frame rails and drive line) using the shorter wheelbase frame. But that All depends on how far you mount the cab off the frame rails.

[whammer33024]

thanks for all the responses guys. redneckrodder, what you referenced was my main concern with the whole thing. there are quite a few extended cab s10s in my area as well so maybe that would be a better option. i will keep my eyes open for a longbox truck but they are just so scarce around here or people want a ton for them

[RedneckRodder]

Originally Posted by whammer33024

thanks for all the responses guys. redneckrodder, what you referenced was my main concern with the whole thing. there are quite a few extended cab s10s in my area as well so maybe that would be a better option. i will keep my eyes open for a longbox truck but they are just so scarce around here or people want a ton for them

I hear you there. I waited for a long time to find one and never did. I ended up finding a guy that parted out small trucks and bought a rolling standard cab frame for $100. But theyre easy to extend. I just found the longest straight section of the frame and split the difference, made the cut and sleeved it. I was able to have about 8" sleeved inside the rails, then plug welded it and welded up all the edges. I don't have any pictures of it, but I plan on disassembling my truck soon to do paint prep. If you're still interested in this route I'll send you some pics then.

[RCbowtie69]

A friend of mine did this and it work out great & the frame was free.