Starter problem HELP!

[cstm68]

Replaced the starter on my 327 the other day and all it would do is grind, I pulled it out and took it back the the parts store and he told me he sold me a hi torque starer. He swapped it out for a standard one. I got that installed tonight and now it starts rite up just fine most of the time but 1 or 2 times out of every 10 starts it grinds. But the next time I turn the key it starts fine. The starter is a little louder than the old one but I'm not worried about that. I can't shim it because it is the style that only bolts the the bell housing, I'm running the bell housing from a Saginaw 3 speed what should I do? My block is drilled for a 2 bolt starter that can be shimmed, should I try that style starter?

[70LonghornCST]

I don't know, but you may want to remove the dust cover on your transmission and check for broken teeth.

[cstm68]

I have the cover off and all the teeth look good

[70LonghornCST]

I would then wonder if it's not engaging all the way. I know this is your second starter, but it's not uncommon to purchase more than one replacement part and have them be defective. Hopefully someone with more background on starter problems will chime in.

[burnin oil]

Do you still have your original starter? When I put a reman Remy on mine not long ago the nose cone was garbage. It was definatley a brand new cone but was mismachined. It fit right in but the bolt holes were off to the point only 1 bolt would start. The nose on these are critical because they are what sets all the dimensions instead of shims. The only other thing I can think of is that the mounting pad is dirty causing the starter to not fit flush against the bellhousing. Like another poster said my initial thought was a broken or chipped tooth on the flywheel. I have had old flywheels where the teeth looked like a 45* cut was on them that still didn't grind.

[cool68]

sure that you have correct starter for your flywheel/flex plate? neither style of starter should make any noise that you should notice.