1971 K20 Rat Rod Resurrection

[chewiebarker]

I decided to start my build thread. I can't promise that it will be updated on a weekly basis, or that my build will go at the amazing speed like some of the other builds I have followed along here but I will do my best to document everything I do and supply lots of pics and information in the process.

I hope that this build thread will document the struggles of a true rookie build yet encourage other people who, like me, might have always dreamed of doing something, like rebuilding a classic, but let fear of the unknown keep them from doing it. I literally have almost no experience as a mechanic or as a body guy. I virtually have none of the tools, or equipment I will likely need, and will have to learn everything there is to know from scratch - or from those of you on this forum willing to teach.

Ever since I was 10 years old, vacationing on the cape with my cousin Billy, reading Hot Rod and truck magazines, and picking all the wheel styles, lift kits, and bolt-ons that we would someday add to "our awesome trucks", to flipping the pages of Auto Trader as a teenager, just wishing I had the $1,500,or whatever, to buy one of those 'fixer uppers' and knowing that I didn't, I have now and again revisited those dreams.

I just couldn't let myself keep dreaming of doing something like this - again - and not chasing after it.

So here I go....

[LuckyScott]

Good Luck, the best way to learn is the "Learn by doing" method. However, dont be afraid to ask for help and/or advice. Lots of people out there are very helpful. Most important, dont be in a hurry, enjoy the journey.

[chewiebarker]

Originally Posted by LuckyScott

Good Luck, the best way to learn is the "Learn by doing" method. However, dont be afraid to ask for help and/or advice. Lots of people out there are very helpful. Most important, dont be in a hurry, enjoy the journey.

Thanks a lot, Lucky Scott! I appreciate it and will try to take my time. My timeline is to have this fininshed by the time my eldest son is old enough to drive - which actually gives me 5.5 years!

[chewiebarker]

Here is what I will be working with. It is a 1971 K20 Custom Deluxe Suburban that I purchased off of ebay. It has a 350 engine, powerglide automatic transmission, a heavy duty front spring option, a rear lift tailgate, and an extra radiator. It was originally Medium Olive - a color that I actually like very much - but had been painted a Rat Rod themed flat black with a red roof. The PO also ran 31.5x12.5 rubber on some wide aftermarket 16" chrome rims.

Conceptually, I plan on restoring it back to its origins, although I don't expect to spend a ton of $$ in order to get it to a competition level, or 'like new' quality. I plan on getting it back to operating at 100% mechanically. Getting it cleaned up and painted well, but generally sticking to the options it originally came with.

First exterior pics of the overall truck appear below:

[chewiebarker]

Here are preliminary shots of the engine compartment. Although the PO had an incorrect air filter 'intstalled' that says Edelbrock, this truck actually has a Rochester Quadrajet 4bbl carburetor:

[chewiebarker]

I am actually pretty pleased that, other than the air filter and perhaps the alternator, it all looks fairly original. Based on the numbers I was able to locate on the engine, it is a 1971 350, so that is a good sign. Although, the information I got was regarding a "Corvette" engine from a corvette discussion board, so that is confusing to me. I imagine that the same engines could have been used in Suburbans and Corvettes in 1971, but I will have to investigate further. I will have to confirm more information on the engine later when I can access the areas where more numbers are kept. Below is a pic of the number off the engine.

Also, below is a pic of the dual radiator setup. I am told this second radiator was for keeping the transmission cool - but like I said, I am a rookie and have no idea how this system operates - YET.

[chewiebarker]

Below is a pic of my vehicle's SPID and it shows the original color of the vehicle. I originally thought that I would paint the truck a dark blue color with a white roof, but I am now toying with the idea of returning it to its original color. Painting the truck is a loooong way away so I have plenty of time to think about it. The following options were included on this truck (the SPID is difficult to read).

TINTED GLASS
DOME LAMP SWITCH
FRONT WHEEL LOCK HU
TURBO HYDRA-MATIC
AM PUSHBUTTON RADIO
AMMETER-OIL-TEMP GA
MEDIUM OLIVE
REAR SEAT
BODY SIDE MOULDING
HEAVY FRONT SPRING
350 CU IN V-8 ENGINE
POWER STEERING
FRONT AND REAR CHRO
CUSTOM COMF & CONV EQ
OLIVE CLOTH TRIM

[chewiebarker]

And now for the KNOWN challenges....the first few are items that I need to take care of before I can register the vehicle. I want to register it ASAP in order to be able to make it easier to work on in terms of taking it to knowlegable friends, or mechanics, or junkyards, etc. (somewhere with a lift??) to facilitate the work. Also, I don't think you can know how a truck is working until you are driving it around on a regular basis.

Known Challenge #1: Fuel tank leak

I believe that the fuel tank has a leak. I at least know that it has a problem with the sender. I think there is a leak because I smell gasoline all the time and the PO warned me to not allow the tank to get below half or the truck will stall. The PO had already ordered the fuel sending unit because he suspected that the fuel gague was reading inaccurately, but never installed it. He did have 3 different fuel gagues installed in the dash though - of which only one 'sort of' works! Below is a pic of the fuel tank, which is consistently wet where I think the leak is.

[chewiebarker]

Known Challenge #2: Very bald tires.

I knew they were bald when I bought it (and drove it back 200+ miles!) but I thought they would be close enough to pass inspection. I have now concluded they are not. The challenge is that the PO had 10+ inch wide aftermarket rims with 12.5 inch tires AND I don't want tires anywhere near that fat. So, economically, it makes no sense for me to buy new 12.5 inch tires to pass inspection only to then get rid of those tires and buy the ones I really want - on the original rims...which is REALLY where the challenge is. Since I have had the truck - about 2 or 3 weeks now - I have been unable to find original 16.5x7 8 lug on 6.5 rims. When I do, I will probably not put tires on them that are any wider than 9.5 or 10 inches. Until I find them, (and repair the fuel tank) there is no chance of passing inspection. Below are pics of the existing wheels/tires.

[chewiebarker]

Actually, my first 'fail' on this project is on the wheels/tires. I saw a craigslist ad for four cheap 8 lug 16.5 inch chevy wheels with decent rubber on them and jumped on the chance of refitting my truck for $75. However, you guessed it, when I got them home they did not fit. Dang.

So they are now sitting in the back of my Sub, with the full size spare on the original rim, and an 'extra' New Process transfer case attached to a Jeep YJ plate (whatever that is).

You gotta love all that room in the back of a Suburban!

[chewiebarker]

The PO gave me the 'extra' New Process 205 even though he said there was no problem with the existing one...we will see. He also gave me a new front driver side quarter panel. Pictured below in the back seat with various other replacement parts (door handles, mirrors...).

[chewiebarker]

Which brings us to Known Challenge #3: The Dents

The PO said that a "deer" hit him in the front driver side quarter panel, door, and rear panel...yeah, a deer.

This challenge is not something that will prevent me from registering though. It is something that I will have to spend a lot of time on in terms of learning how to do body work. But it will be a later priority. There does not appear to be any damage behind the skin of the panels though. Nothing is out of place or bent or broken, so I beleive that it was a minor scrape of the 'antlers' rather than a full on t-boning.

[chewiebarker]

Known Challenge #4: Rust

Overall, I don't think this truck has much of a rust problem. It has it in all the common areas (common based on everything I have read on these boards) but where it does have it the amount/area does not seem too bad. The real challenge with all of it is going to be the fact I have never done any sort of metal work in my life. I don't even have a grasp of the technology yet. I will learn though.

I am including pics of the worst areas of rust below. They include some rust through on the firewall, and some rust through in the front wheel wells. The rear ones are pretty much fine (I think). The rear rindow/tailgate also has a bit.

[pwdcougar]

Looks like a great starting point. Good luck!

I repaired my gas tank without too much trouble. I dropped it, cleaned it inside and out pretty good with Castrol Super Clean. I ran a ton of water through so it would be safe to use a torch and solder the holes closed. Mine had rust through in a few spots. I cut sheet metal patches and sanded the the tank areas and used muratic acid to prep the metal. I used solder and an acetylene plumbers torch to seal the holes.

Paul

[chewiebarker]

Thanks Paul! Sounds like that worked well for you. About how long was the process?

[chewiebarker]

More rusty areas. The driver side door, along the bottom and bottom corner, appears to have some horrible patch work done to it. I am not even certain what was used to achieve it. It is a bubbly mess. The passenger side door is much better, but the door jamb is worse off on this side with a couple of 3-4 inch holes.

[chewiebarker]

You can see in that last pic above where the door actually kisses up against the jamb when it opens. It makes a loud squeal and all the doors seem to do it. This is the worst one.

[chewiebarker]

Known Challenge #5: Leaks

Seems eveything has a leak. Should be interesting. At least it gives me a reason to open up everything!

Here are some pics of the known ones, including the oil pan, some tube on top of the head cover, the rear differential, and the worst one - the powersteering gear. In fact, the powersteering is probably something that I need to fix before I can register the vehicle. There is A LOT of sway in the steering. I imagine that has more to do with worn steering parts, rather than a leak in the gear/box, but again, I have almost no experience in these matters, so we will see! I suppose the steering is Known Challenge #6 and should have been ranked higher in priority.

[chewiebarker]

Known Challenge #7: What the heck happened to the interior??!

Second row seat - missing. In fact, there is a replacement bench, from I don't know what, that was simple bolted into the floor so if you sit in it your knees are in your ears. Also, the rear door panel are a homemade job made of carboard and spaceship cloth. Nice!

There are all kinds of add-on electronic stuff under the steering column, including multiple versions of trailer controls, a work around horn, some speaker wires and radio wiring to an aftermarket radio in the glove box, and WORST of ALL red and black paint brushed on over the doors and dash and elsewhere. You can even see in on of the pics below, an exterior-looking-in shot of the door lock, that the paint was brushed on from the inside and the PO didn't even bother to cover the backsides. I don't know if it will all be stripped, or what, but I am sure that eventually fixing this will be a pain in the neck.

Even the, what I assume is the original fron bench, has been painted/stained black but it is now wearing off. But at least I have a front bench frame to work with!

The upsides...the original gagues are there, original radio, orig. heating controls, orig. headliner bows (although rusty), original front door panels and all handles, knobs etc.

The dash pad will have to be replaced, I think, and definitely the steering wheel.

Guess I better get to work!!

[chewiebarker]

more interior pics:

[pwdcougar]

Just take your time and do one thing at a time.

The tank repair took most of an afternoon with most of the time spent cleaning the tank inside so it didn't explode when the torch hit it. First the grease and oil had to go then the metal prepped with the muriatic acid. I brushed it on, let it sit for a bit, then rinsed it off. I used the brush on plumbers soldering paste too. My daughter had to hold the patches flat with a large screwdriver too.

25 years ago I paid a guy to patch the very same tank using the same method. That patch was still holding strong!

Paul

[pwdcougar]

The transmission cooler could be an aftermarket set up for additional cooling capacity. Usually auto trans vehicles have two lines that run to the bottom of the radiator for cooling. The aftermarket trans cooler would just have rerouted the trans to the radiator to the separate little radiator you see bolted to the radiator support. The wire and sensor on it probably go to a gauge for monitoring transmission temperature or it is part of a bypass set up that only routes the trans fluid through the cooler when it reaches a certain temperature. A closer look at the picture makes me think that it is a bypass.

Paul

[chewiebarker]

Thanks for that info. I think you are probably right that it is an aftermarket addition. Initially I thought I recalled seeing somewhere that it was a factory option, but I am probably just confusing that with one of the other Subs that I was considering when making the purchase. The guy I bought this from pulled a flatbed car trailer with it for his business, so he probably installed this and the trailer brake controller(s) so he would have better trailering capacity. I now wonder if he messed around with the gearing too. Will have to explore that sometime. For now, wheels, alignment/steering, and fuel tank/line are going to be the priorities! : ) I want to get to drive it a bit before I start tearing it up! : )

[chewiebarker]

I did head out this weekend to buy a standard front grille from a local guy who was selling the front clip off of a 1972 C20 Sub. I really don't like the billet grille that is on there now and really prefer the grid with the blue bowtie on the front.

When I got there, it was in great shape so I bought it (pic below). I also ended up buying the whole clip, and a rear bumper, figuring that it wouldn't hurt to have some extra pieces. (additional pics below) The whole thing was in pretty good shape and I am wondering which truck's wheel wells are in better shape - it might be one of each. At least when I get to that point I will have the parts to do it.

Any thoughts on using the front left quarter from this clip to fix the dents/crack in my truck, or should I use the replacement part the PO provided me...or should I just repair the original? What would be best in terms of continuity of originality and a good cosmetic result??

I am also psyched that I got some decent badges (including the bowtie and 350 badge) from this C20. The PO of my truck had ditched them. I had already purchased replacements off of EBAY but these look to be in even better shape! Also, the indicator lights on this truck are less discolored than mine.

[chewiebarker]

The best part though was that once I was chatting with the guy about my truck he goes into his garage and pulls out a bunch of extra stuff that he throws into the deal. Including factory option running lights (which are not an option on my SPID but are really cool) AND a full set of 3/4 ton wheel covers that were in great shape!! I couldn't believe he had them. So now I have wheel covers and no wheels!! HAHA.

Although, since his was not 4WD I will have to track down some with holes in them. I was wondering if any simply cut these ones. The guy also gave me some interior parts, like the ash tray and glove box lid, so below is a pic of this other truck's SPID.

It is medium green, like my truck orignally, but it was obviously parked for years under pine trees in NH because the hood is absolutely covered in pine sap. On the pic below you can see where I wiped away the sap with a wet cloth.