Can I tow 4500# and carry 500# with a half-ton?

[Poppa Wheelie]

I just got done looking at this thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=433426

...of everyone showing their trucks really hauling loads, and I am just stunned at how much some of you tow and haul. Seriously.

I need to tow a 2500#* car on a 2000#* open car trailer with 500#* of tools in the bed (*all weights are estimates). So, tow 4500 and carry 500.

Right now I use a '97 C3500 and of course it works great. In the past I have used an '87 K20 suburban, also worked great. Before that I used an S10 (the loads were lighter) but I really didnt know how stupid I was and there were plenty of white-knuckle rides in that.

I have convinced myself that I would never tow with less than a 3/4-ton again (but I have never used a full-size 1/2-ton).

Heres my question: can you convince me that a 1/2-tonner would be adequate? Or not just adequate but safe? I love looks of a swb 1/2-ton step-side; would this be enough truck?

Thanks in advance!

[Lou Boffa]

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[FirstOwner69]

Knowing your hitch setup may help get an answer. 2500# for a car, even a small one, seems light. People generally underestimate both trailer and cargo weights.

[mmiddle]

Front Drums or Disc? Back in the day people used to tow much more than that with a station wagon. When I had my 69 (drum brakes) I towed my 6k boat/trailer with no problems. NOT in the hills!!!
It all depends on engine, brakes and hitch set-up.
Assuming your truck has a good running engine L6/V8, good tranny and good brakes.... I don't see why not.

[Stu Pidd]

Long wheelbase would be more stable than a short bed for towing.

Your load would be pretty close to maxing out a long-bed 1/2 ton. I wouldn't want to use a shorty for towing a car hauler. Get ready for more white knuckles when braking.

[FirstOwner69]

I agree with everything Stu Pidd says above. You MAY be OK with a good receiver hitch, a quality weight distribution system and correct tongue weight. Tow ratings back in the day were quite foggy. Today's trucks generally weigh quite a bit more and have beefier frames, etc. Tow ratings are also much more of a science. Remember, however, that old truck is just that, old. How healthy is your frame, drivetrain, etc. What tires are you running? What's the rear axle weight rating and ratio? As Stu said, you may be in for more white knuckle driving. Stay smart. Stay safe.

[burnin oil]

Dual axle trailer with brakes on both axles and it should not be a problem at all. The big thing is getting the wieght on the trailer correct. You only want about 15% of it on the trucks hitch so that the trailer is towing the wieght. That works out to 750 pounds on the hitch for a 5000lb trailer and load. Trailers are a balancing act. To much wieght or to little and it is miserable and unsafe to drive. Set it up just right and you forget its back there until you pull a hill or go to park. Years ago I hauled that much with a K5 blazer without issue. We had to haul a farm tractor over the mountain. Another time I hauled a grand am from Cali to SC when I moved. Even had my tools loading the bed. That was with a newer truck though, 89 half ton chevy.

[2 Far Gone]

You need to look at the GVW of the truck. Exceeding that may run you into trouble especially with a Diesel Bear.

[Poppa Wheelie]

Thanks, I will elaborate on the loads: 2500# is an estimate for a light full-bodied drag car Im building. I know this is pretty accurate from others Ive built.
My open trailer I estimate at 2000#. It is full-width steel deck, 18' long. I have a big winch and a tool box on there. It does have brakes on both axles.
I would be using a class 3 receiver on the truck of course.
Disc brakes on the front of the truck also. I am assuming the tools and equipment I bring in the truck bed is a few hundred lbs. My toolbox I bring I cant even lift the whole thing at once.

Im pretty good at load distribution and such, I have done a fair bit of towing. Right now I use a crew-cab duallie with a 454, so I dont even feel the trailer. Im interested in something more vintage.

My previous 3/4-ton suburban seemed to me like a 1-ton with single rear wheels: huge brakes, e-range tires, 8-lugs, tall frame, low rear gear, etc.

Half-tons seem more like a passenger car to me: tiny brakes, tiny tires, 5 (or 6) lugs, etc. They just dont seem heavy duty enough. Am I right or wrong?

Edit: I agree, modern 1/2s seem way bigger, more like a 67-72 3/4-ton in capacity.

[mmiddle]

You should be fine. I see no reason why not.

[slow-1]

I pull my 4000# boat with my 72 SWB 1/2 Ton...with surge brakes on 1 axle I dont even notice its there. I have discs on the front but they are not power.

Properly working trailer brakes are the key to safe trailering anything over 1000# IMHO.

[lowrollin70gmc]

You would be fine with a half ton, the short wheel base wouldn't be ideal for pulling a trailer but with an open trailer with brakes and a drag car you would be within reason.

There are also plenty of cheap 3/4T 2wds out there. Heck, a 3/4t long stepper would be a pretty cool tow rig.

[Lattimer]

I wouldn't even think twice about it with my Tundra---but thats rated to tow 10,000 and built closer to a 3/4 ton, even though its 6 lug and sells as a 1/2 ton.

With an older 1/2 ton, I'd be very careful about the hitch setup, and definitely would want a lwb truck just for the stability. Upgraded brakes for sure.

[oldcane]

Of course it will pull it. And given normal conditions it will stop it. A lot of what can and can't be done safely depends on that ECM behind your eyes. We have no idea how it's programmed.

[tlcrz1972]

I pull my '66 Landcruiser (est weight 4500 lbs +) flatbed trailer 1800 lbs +) extra tools, fuel, camping gear, dogs, food and beer (500 lbs+)

Call it 6800 lbs easy. through the hill country of South Texas with no problem.

But my truck is set up to do so, Longbed with Class 3 receiver hitch, helper air bags on the rear end, and 1995 FI throttle body 350, with 4L60E and 3.08 gears Pulls like a champ in overdrive.

Trailer has brakes and is well set up also.

No white knuckle driving what-so-ever. Plus I get plenty of thumbs up and long stares as I go though every town.

[7dee2]

Pulled my Corvette to car shows for years with my 68 GMC. That is until I noticed I had broken both frame rails inside the c-notch. Did really well before that. Pulled my Boise Idaho farm find C30 home with a TrailBlazer SS, made it but wouldn't recommend doing that again. You can do what you want but a good rule of thumb is long wheel base, heavy duty brakes (especially if trailer is not equipped with brakes) and a tow vehicle that weighs as much or more than the combined towed weight.

[burnin oil]

I agree with 7dee2 on everything except the vehicle wieght part. It is a good rule of thumb for a beginer who has never pulled a trailer before. Once you are comfortable much larger loads can be pulled with a decent trailer brake. Any of the good, read not $40 at advanced model, have a boost setting. You set this up for the trailer wieght. My electric brake is set up for trailer less than truck wieght, same wieght, and 1 1/2+ the truck wieght. Not a 1/2 ton anymore but my 3/4 ton pulled my 14k lb fver perfectly legally with decent brakes. Now I use a 5500 that wieghs 12k and pull a 8k lb trailer with another 14k pounds on the deck. No problem and will still stop extreamly fast. A couple months ago I pulled my new RV that is 16k empty through WVA to Indiana and back with no problems at all. You just need to make sure everything is working properly with good brakes on the axles. For anyone that doesn't know this any trailer over 10k lbs, besides an RV, will require a CDL lisence. Every state is a little different but that is the federal law. It is up to the state on how they enforce it. Where I am in VA I need a class A CDL and in TX it is down graded to a class B (I believe it is what they said). All this is to pull my own junk for myself. Some states want RVs to roll the scales even. Side bar over.

Another thing talked about was a C notched truck. This tends to weaken the frame even with proper fish plating. Not bashing it at all just putting that out there as you change the way the frames force is distributed. This is the reason the drop kits have that huge plate that goes in to reenforce the frame. There are several ways to lengthen or shorten a frame. Most people agree to cut it on two angles then weld it back together. After that it is plated on atleast one side with thick plate that is bolted in. The reason for the plate is that the load distribution on the frame is no longer distributed evenly across its length. The plate is bolted in to allow it to flex and twist so there is not a stiff spot on the frames length. If it is to solid in one place the frame is likely to tear itself apart under heavy loading and torque application. 67-72 frames are relatively thin on a K20. They have bigger brakes and 8 lugs but are more like a 1/2 ton these days. I still wouldn't want to tow 10k pounds with a toyota regaurdless what the manufacturer says it can do.

[brad_man_72]

I saw a printout the other day on here. Depending on the drivetrain the 1/2 ton trucks were rated to pull around 9000lbs

[dajn]

You ever noticed people on craigslist selling pickups that have 180k and it already has a replaced transmission or a replaced motor? These people are morons that don't understand anything, let alone what their vehicle is capable of. Its like taking a small bore single cylinder two stroke and holding it wide open at 13000 rpm and then wondering why it blew up. Yes a half ton can do it but you need to use your head. Trailer brakes are key. Not being a moron is key.

[Poppa Wheelie]

Small car, big camper - YouTube