Mustang II frontend question

[52barnfind]

Hi, This is my first post so forgive me if I am doing this wrong. Any way, I have a 1952 3100 that I am doing a MII front crossmember on. I bought the complete kit from cpp. with power rack. I have everything tacked in place and have ran into a problem. When I install the rack the input shaft is so close to the crossmember that I cant fit the universal joint for the steering shaft. Has anyone had to notch the crossmember for this, or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks a lot for any help!

[mr48chev]

I am thinking that some of them come with clearance for the shaft built in to them. As long as you do it right I don't see an issue.

[mr48chev]

I found this, It's someone's add trying to sell a MII style crossmember.
http://www.drillist.com/post/1935194...ossmember/1201

That notch isn't very fancy but it appears to be what they do.

[52barnfind]

Thanks a lot for the fast reply. I just didn't know if this was a common thing. I'm not surprised considering all the cutting and fitting it took to get everything else to work. The pic you posted is helpful. I just don't recall seeing anyone do it to one of these trucks in the build threads I have looked at. Another question is, the bolt kit that came with the rack came with two 3/4" spacers to go behind the rack. I cant decide weather or not to use them .It really fits everything better without them. But I don't know if they are required for correct geometry. Its crazy at how poor the single page of instructions is. it pretty much only covers crossmember centerline measurement.
Thanks again.

[Chevy-49]

Had the same problems, had to c-notch the cross member side. Also remove a knob of the power rack. Gr Richard

[mr48chev]

I think depending on the kit you do or don't need the spacer. You do want the rack and tie rods in as straight a line as you can get between the eyes in the ends of the steering arms. Having the rack in front of or behind that line any noticeable distance may cause bump steer or throw the relationship of the wheels off on a turn.

[52barnfind]

Chevy-49 and mr48chevy, You guys are Great! You both have answered my questions completely. It is amazing at the wealth of info available on this forum.

[Root2812]

In this first pic you can see the notch my Fatman Fabircations IFS crossmember came with.


The Fatman kit mounts to the underside of the rail so you don't lose any space between the rails, like in Chevy-49's picture. My kit didn't have rack spacers either. I'm pretty sure that those rack spacers will have no effect on the geometry. The geometry is all in the a-arms and cross member Your rack just attaches there and then the tie rods move as the truck moves and the suspension flexes anyway.

Here is a finished pic of mine.

[Sethmark]

I have the heidts kit. Crossmember is notched and the rack is very close to everything but hits nothing.

[ChuckDriver]

ROOT2812, it looks like you have your upper arm bolts installed up side down. I don't believe they will hold the cross shaft in the correct alignment the way you have them.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

ROOT2812, it looks like you have your upper arm bolts installed up side down. I don't believe they will hold the cross shaft in the correct alignment the way you have them.

It appears that way to me too


Any reason for putting them in upside down except for being mad at the front end alignment guy? He's no gonna like you when he tackles that one.

[Root2812]

Thanks for the feed back guys. I just have it all mocked together right now. After I weld in my motor mounts it will come apart to be blasted. So when I put it together for real those two bolts should come from underneath? With the nuts on top?

The Fatman kit had crappy instructions for everything other than welding in the cross member so I was flying blind.

[DransportGarage]

Welcome to the forum! X3 with the nuts on top. The shaft on those funny bolts lock into the weldment from underneath.



Also note the same crossmember notch on my Fatman setup.

[mr48chev]

That is the way it should be. I see one more thing on Bob's front end that I like. See how the tie rods form one straight line with the rack? that is the way it should be set up to get the best results. I may have to save that one for my "this is how to do it right" file.

Looking at it again you can see the notch that was formed for clearance for the steering shaft/gear and it is a nice well formed notch. That is a great answer to the original question right there.

[DransportGarage]

Thanks, mr48chev. Somebody, hurry up and tell my wife I did something right!

I suppose I can't take full credit for the straight-out tie rod - yet. The springs won't go in until the full weight of the truck is in place (thus the loose nut on the tie rod). The suspension is aligned by a spacer pipe (supplied by Fatman) on the shock shaft. Give me another year...

[mr48chev]

Up and down not in a straight line like a side to side tie rod would be on an I beam is normal and engineered into the steering but I've seen soe steering racks lately that have the tie rods at angles to the rack it's self when viewed from straight above and that throws the relationship of the tires off from each other when the rig makes a turn.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Up and down not in a straight line like a side to side tie rod would be on an I beam is normal and engineered into the steering but I've seen soe steering racks lately that have the tie rods at angles to the rack it's self when viewed from straight above and that throws the relationship of the tires off from each other when the rig makes a turn.

Got it, and yes, you are correct (but you knew that) .