Ball joint and spindle spreading much easier

[chakah]

Okay buds, I just discovered a better and much easier way to separate ball joints from spindles. I had done this earlier on one of my trucks before but never got to post it. I think you'll realize how much safer it also is. This method will also prevent banging the cr@p out of your A-arms, so put the fork spreader away. I don't even know if someone's tried this before but I hope it helps.

Okay, you gather tools you'll be needing. Two 3/4 in. wrenches, a 15/16 in. wrench, two 1/2" x 1 3/4" machine bolts with nuts and flat washers, a 1/2" x 2" piece of pipe. In this case I found a threaded nipple in my drawers. And of course our best friend WD-40.


Now this is what the spindle and ball joints look like bolted on. Now I removed the brakes and backplate for a better view of what's going on.


The gap between both ball joints measures about 4 1/4". Not sure what other year truck measures but this is what I got.


The machine bolt measures 1 3/4" long and 1/2" thickness. This measurement will depend on the gap between the ball joints. Sorry for the blurry pic.


The threaded nipple I found was 2" long. Here, any strong steel pipe or tube will work as long as the bolts fit snug. Any hardware store should carry these in the plumbing department. Remember, STRONG steel.

[chakah]

When you join the bolts together, they should measure about 4" total with the hex head included. That should fit between the ball joint gap.


Now, put it all together as shown. Bolt, nut, washer, pipe sleeved through between both bolts. Now I don't know if you wanna call this a tool, but I'm gonna refer to it as a "jig". All together still adds up to 4".


Start loosening the bottom ball joint with the 15/16 in. wrench. Of course, remove cotter pins and spray some WD-40 on both ball joint threads before. Also, make sure to use the closed end of the wrench to prevent wrench slip. Busted knuckles don't feel very good.


Then loosen the top ball joint with th 3/4 in. wrench. Remember, closed end of the wrench, save your knuckles.

[chakah]

After loosening both ball joint nuts, leave them flush with the threads.
DO NOT REMOVE THE NUTS



Okay, here you slip in the "jig" between the ball joint gap. While it's in the gap, hold the bolt against the ball joint with one hand and tighten on the nut with the other until snug. You wanna have the same gap between the bolt and the nut on the "jig". I'm sorry but I was only born with two hands. I couldn't do this and take the pic at once, but I'm sure you got the idea.


Here's the fun part. With both 3/4 in. wrenches, hold the bolt steady with one, and turn the nut with the other. You wanna do this to both top and bottom to prevent any tilting of the bolts. This will get tighter as you go, pushing the bolts against the ball joints.


Now, I tried hiding the hammer from you but you might have to tap on it. You might wanna spray some WD-40 on the ball joint where the taper is. When you tap on it, you might have to hit a little harder some times. Don't go "hammer happy" banging the cr@p out of it as if you were doing a favor for your mother in-law. Be patient. Remember it's YOUR truck. Also remember it's a tapered fit, so when it comes loose, it's gonna be a loud bang. The "jig" is just gonna fall out when loose. It's NOT gonna fly out either.

[chakah]

In my case the bottom came loose first. So repeat the same steps for the next ball joint. Remember, hit around the tapered fit where the ball joint sleeves through.


After they both come loose, slide your jack under the bottom a-arm and jack it up. Jack enough to remove the ball joint nut.


Slowly bring the jack down to release the spring tension.


Now just lift the spindle and remove the nut. There you go, it's all apart!!!


And this is how to spread and remove spindles. It's alot safer and you don't have to sledge the sh!t out your a-arms. I hope this helps some you guys tearing your suspensions apart. You can throw that fork spreader away now.

....and this is all I've got to say 'bout ball joint and spindle spreading.

[kerber63]

Great write up and great pics, this will definitely be something I'll use. Thanks!

[PGSigns]

Looks like it works well. I'm from the old school. We just back off the nut and hit the spindle with a hammer.
Jimmy

[bj383ss]

Great write up. This would be really good method if you didn't want to damage the boots. Especially the top one.


Bret

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Looks like it works well. I'm from the old school. We just back off the nut and hit the spindle with a hammer.
Jimmy

Me too until I get one that is stuck and after some heat with the torch I melt the boots ;( this would work great in that situation. We get a lot of rain up here and suspension components are sometimes rusted together

[1963c-10]

cool trick, I'll have to check that out on the next project.

[WhippinSaw]

nice mod, and great write up, banging down on the church nut with a hammer can damage the nut and the threads, making it hard to remove once it pops, but I still do it , gonna try this next time. Thanks

[luvbowties]

Neat idea, chakah. I love 'homemade' tools & this one is def. a keeper.
sam

[rustbucket66]

Good idea and engineering. I agree with a couple guys in here about the old school way though. Back off the nut with an impact gun, never mind the cotter pin if you are replacing the ball joint, just pound the socket on. Then a couple good whacks on the spindle with a 4 pound hammer, and it pops apart. No damage to the rubber boot if you want to use the ball joint again. Of course, if you are reusing the ball joint, get the cotter pin out first. The same for tie rod ends, one or two good whacks on the end of the spindle, and it pops right out. Very fast and effective.

[chevy_mike]

Yep, I have been using that method for years. Works great and doesn't damage the boots. This also works great if you have a setup where you had cut or very low drop springs that don't put any load on the arms when up in the air.

[Sick5]

Wow Nice write up!!!

[familyfast64]

If the top comes loose first using this method is it tricky to get the lower one out? I love ideas like this, thanks.

[cg285]

you could turn a step, or point, on each bolt head to keep them in place - or even a spot weld in the center would probably work.

although that is a good idea i would have them split apart, the old way, while someone was looking for that tool.

[grs]

I will remember this when I lower my truck.

[Vernski]

Chakah You earned an award for saving the skin on my knuckles plus a good round of pats on the back that is a cool idea you thought up thank you...Vernski

[chakah]

Originally Posted by familyfast64

If the top comes loose first using this method is it tricky to get the lower one out? I love ideas like this, thanks.

Not at all, it's the same, which ever gives first.

Originally Posted by Vernski

Chakah You earned an award for saving the skin on my knuckles plus a good round of pats on the back that is a cool idea you thought up thank you...Vernski

thanks Verns

[66Submarine]

I had that idea before but haven't had the opportunity to try it yet, glad to see it worked for you. Using the hammer method I had to beat the absolute hell out of the spindle on my one ton before one let go! I'll have to make something up in the lathe and give this a try when I mess with the springs again.

[cortcomp]

I never have luck hitting the balljoint stud, even with a nut on (it just jams the nut then i can't get the nut off without the balljoint spinning.)

$10 pickle fork and a few whacks and they always come off...however you do tear up some boots.

I never trust a ball or tie rod end after beating on them anyways, i always always replace them when i have them a part. If you don't have a press or want to mess with it, take the A arms (why not, you have it a part anyways and are 4 bolts away...) to a tire shop with the new ball joints, $20 later you have 4 A arms with new ball joints in them.

[rustbucket66]

You don't hit the ball joint stud or the nut. You hit the spindle where the ball joint goes through. Same with the tie rod ends, you don't hit the stud or nut at all, just the spindle where the stud goes through. A pickle fork not only tears the rubber boot, but it forces the ball out of its socket and further damages the joint, so you have to replace a perfectly good ball joint or tie rod end if you use a fork because it is now damaged. If you are putting drop spindles in a new truck, or a truck with good parts, why should you have to replace all those parts?

[64-454ss]

loved the idea. scrounged around my garage and came up with this. 5/8" x 4" bolt and nut and a 16mm socket. worked like a champ.

[Cape Codder]

When using a hammer on the spindle to separate a ball joint or tie rod end I put a second heavy hammer on the back side. It seems to take less force to dislodge the joint.

[nxtruck]

I made one of these "jigs" last weekend while taking the lowers loose to change out the front springs on my '65. Worked like a charm. Put pressure on both ball joints, a few taps with a hammer, and the lowers popped loose right away.