timing specs + other help for 350 sbc??? help? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*cranknut67* · 07-30-2003, 09:59 PM

the specs are as follows:

chevy 350 "k" block - (93)
cast heads .194 /15
crane 272 (advertised duration) cam +lifters + pushrods
edelbrock performer rpm manifold
edelbrock 750 cfm carb
serpentine system ( if that has anything to do with it)
mallory comp 9000 w/ unilite module w/out vacuum adv.
msd 6 box
accell 8.8 wires
standard heat range plugs
dual electric " flexalite sucker fans " (removed clutch fan)
no shroud.....
camaro aluminum radiator w/ oil cooler
B&M trans cooler w/16" fan
195 thermostat
k&n 16" velocity stack & filtercharger
underdrive pulleys

trouble is, I have had trouble getting this thing to cool down anything less than 215 notmally - maybe put in a 180 thermostat? - I was thinking maybe timing?

anything to help would greatly appreciated.

Thanks ahead of time guys.

jhow66 · 07-30-2003, 10:09 PM

Run as much intial time as your starter will crank--how much is in your dist.? Thermostat does not control temp--only opening point.

*cranknut67* · 07-31-2003, 01:55 AM

Maybe some numbers for normal specs may help - I really don't want to play it by ear.?

jhow66 · 07-31-2003, 11:16 AM

Start with 10* BTDC--make sure your idle speed is low enough when you set it so mechinal advance has not started.

**COBALT** · 07-31-2003, 02:28 PM

To be a bit clearer:

1. Set fast idle (screw on the throttle linkage on the carb) to roughly 600-800 rpm.

2. Disconnect vacuum advance if you have it (RPM's will drop - this is ok).

3. Verify timing mark is in indicator range on the balancer. Set it to 10 degrees advance initially.

4. Reconnect vacuum advance and check engine response off-idle. If it boggs down off-idle advance the distributor more than 10 degrees until it goes away.

5. Get on the road and check WOT. If it boggs down in WOT you are too far advanced, and need to drop it back down.

Once you find that magic spot WRITE IT DOWN SOMEWHERE. That way when I work on my engine again I don't have to rediscover it every time. It's pretty simple after that.

Temp seems high, but where are you getting that number? Is it reading block temp. or fluid temp? The 195 thermostat is just fine, but this may be an indication of some other problem. Heater core plugged? Do you read this when the air conditioner is running on a super hot day? More details.

ChevLoRay · 07-31-2003, 02:38 PM

I am going to play dumb. You have a lot of data in your post. You have checked all that you know to check, but I didn't read it in your post, so I am going to ask stupid questions, like: How about your radiator? Is it a 2, 3 or 4-row core? You have a serpentine belt. Does the water pump have the right rotation? What is the distance between the fan and the radiator? Does your thermostat actually opening at the temp is is designed to open? Have you checked to see if there are any combustion bubbles in the coolant? Have you done a pressure test on your cooling system?

You can use the cooling system pressure tester on your system, while the engine is running to help check for combustion leaking into the cooling system.

I know some of these things may sound off-beat, but......off-beat happens.

Timing can affect the operating temp, for sure. But, there are other factors that can also affect it.

**Stocker** · 07-31-2003, 07:50 PM

I'd try a fan shroud, and I also wonder about your underdrive pulleys - if one is on the water pump.

07-30-2003, 09:59 PM	#1
cranknut67 Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 139	timing specs + other help for 350 sbc??? help? the specs are as follows: chevy 350 "k" block - (93) cast heads .194 /15 crane 272 (advertised duration) cam +lifters + pushrods edelbrock performer rpm manifold edelbrock 750 cfm carb serpentine system ( if that has anything to do with it) mallory comp 9000 w/ unilite module w/out vacuum adv. msd 6 box accell 8.8 wires standard heat range plugs dual electric " flexalite sucker fans " (removed clutch fan) no shroud..... camaro aluminum radiator w/ oil cooler B&M trans cooler w/16" fan 195 thermostat k&n 16" velocity stack & filtercharger underdrive pulleys trouble is, I have had trouble getting this thing to cool down anything less than 215 notmally - maybe put in a 180 thermostat? - I was thinking maybe timing? anything to help would greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time guys.

07-30-2003, 10:09 PM	#2
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	Run as much intial time as your starter will crank--how much is in your dist.? Thermostat does not control temp--only opening point. __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

07-31-2003, 11:16 AM	#4
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	Start with 10* BTDC--make sure your idle speed is low enough when you set it so mechinal advance has not started. __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

07-31-2003, 02:28 PM	#5
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	To be a bit clearer: 1. Set fast idle (screw on the throttle linkage on the carb) to roughly 600-800 rpm. 2. Disconnect vacuum advance if you have it (RPM's will drop - this is ok). 3. Verify timing mark is in indicator range on the balancer. Set it to 10 degrees advance initially. 4. Reconnect vacuum advance and check engine response off-idle. If it boggs down off-idle advance the distributor more than 10 degrees until it goes away. 5. Get on the road and check WOT. If it boggs down in WOT you are too far advanced, and need to drop it back down. Once you find that magic spot WRITE IT DOWN SOMEWHERE. That way when I work on my engine again I don't have to rediscover it every time. It's pretty simple after that. Temp seems high, but where are you getting that number? Is it reading block temp. or fluid temp? The 195 thermostat is just fine, but this may be an indication of some other problem. Heater core plugged? Do you read this when the air conditioner is running on a super hot day? More details. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

07-31-2003, 02:38 PM	#6
ChevLoRay Old Skool Club Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas" Posts: 10,880	I am going to play dumb. You have a lot of data in your post. You have checked all that you know to check, but I didn't read it in your post, so I am going to ask stupid questions, like: How about your radiator? Is it a 2, 3 or 4-row core? You have a serpentine belt. Does the water pump have the right rotation? What is the distance between the fan and the radiator? Does your thermostat actually opening at the temp is is designed to open? Have you checked to see if there are any combustion bubbles in the coolant? Have you done a pressure test on your cooling system? You can use the cooling system pressure tester on your system, while the engine is running to help check for combustion leaking into the cooling system. I know some of these things may sound off-beat, but......off-beat happens. Timing can affect the operating temp, for sure. But, there are other factors that can also affect it. __________________ Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was.

07-31-2003, 01:55 AM	#3
cranknut67 Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 139	Maybe some numbers for normal specs may help - I really don't want to play it by ear.?

07-31-2003, 07:50 PM	#7
Stocker 20' Daredevil (Ret) Join Date: May 2003 Location: Jefferson State Posts: 13,728	I'd try a fan shroud, and I also wonder about your underdrive pulleys - if one is on the water pump. __________________ - Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay



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