New to me '68 C20

[SpamCo]

Hey everyone, new to the forum and I just picked up a 1968 C20. It runs and drives but I'd like to get it in good running order to cruise around this summer, until I have the time and money to make it look really nice. Its almost to that point but one of the bigger issues is a hole in floor of the cab in the back right corner. Without buying a whole new floor pan, what is the easiest way to fix/patch this so it isn't so noisy in the cab? Also, I would like to switch from the standard 2 barrel carb that's on it to a 4 barrel, what would you guys recommend for a carb/intake setup? Thanks everyone.

[gsxrdoug]

Welcome to the forum. Can't recommend anything but you will find a wealth of knowledge on here.

[Elliot949]

Welcome to the forum... Lets see some pics of the C-20

[SpamCo]

Ive never posted pics before, how do I do that if they're in my email?

[veedubshafer]

Save the pictures to your computer first. Then go to the bottom of the thread and click the "post reply" button...not the quick reply. Then in that screen next to the smiley face you'll see a paper clip. Click that to upload pictures.

[CharlieeFoxtrot]

Welcome to the Forum. I just joined a few days ago. I have a 1967 chevy C20 with a hole in the passenger floorboard. I'll have to follow this thread since I have the same problem! I look forward to the pictures!

[SpamCo]

1200 bucks, drove her home. You can see in one of the pictures the hole I am talking about

[SpamCo]

Bump
Theres gotta be someone on here that can give me some help here, anyone?

[In The Ten Ring]

You'll find help man. My truck has exactly the same rust issue: cab corners. It's a common one and I think there are companies that make those replacement sections of the floor.

Lots of trucks are cut up when parted out and you could have a member cut out and sell you what you need.

I love that manual in the floor. I hope you keep that. Also....do you plan on a bench seat? I love bench seats and I don't want it any other way.

What size V8 have you there?

[SpamCo]

I'm hoping I'll find the help I need. And it's not exactly the cab corners that have the hole, they're actually in decent condition. Regardless I'm sure someone will have some insight on how to fix it.

Yes sir it will never be an automatic, I love driving the manual. And if I can find a bench seat in decent condition for a good price I'll probably swap it

Still working on figuring out the engine size, as rookie as that sounds I've been busy with other stuff and generally too excited about getting it in good driving condition. There should be an indicator on the block itself somewhere correct?

[DWilbur]

looking at the pictures of your truck the rocker panels are rotted through right rear corner and the right rear floor panel. Their are vendors on the forum that sell replacement rocker panel and rear cab corners. I have only seen front floor patch panel for sale not the rear part that your seat belt bolts to. to do the repairs your self it will require cutting out the rotted parts cleaning up the rust and welding in the patch panels. check with some of the vender on the site to see if you can get the back floor panel or you might have to buy the hole floor pan and use the parts you need. have you pulled up the rubber floor mat and see if the front floor area is rotted out. looking at your rockers I would guess they are.
check out my build I had a lot of rot to cut out and install new patch panels.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=596036

[hugger6933]

Welcome to the site, I dig the early 80's S10 buckets but they probably seem a little small in that truck. Be careful wanting to fix the spots and drive as tear downs can get more involved than you realize. It is like peeling an onion the more layers you see the more hidden layers there are as well. The intake thing I would say a Edelbrock Performer and a Edelbrock 600 electric choke carb makes a great choice. Jim

[SpamCo]

Yeah the seats are a bit small in the truck. And yeah I can imagine once I start replacing body parts it'll be hard to stop

[airdale94]

I'm going to chicken wire and expandable foam sealant mine.

[SpamCo]

That's not a bad idea, it would be cheap and effective

[SpamCo]

How hard would it be for me to swap a 350 into this truck? what could I save off the 307 and what would I need to buy new

[LJS30]

Straight body!!!!!!!!

[SpamCo]

Originally Posted by LJS30

Straight body!!!!!!!!

It looks good from a distance, I also took the outside picture of the better side, the other sides got a couple little rusty spots

[SpamCo]

Bump for the 350 swap. The motor will be out of a 93 chevy, swapping the tbi for a carb. What will I have to change in the drivetrain to accommodate the motor? I read somewhere on here about having to use a different flywheel?
Starting to pull motors hopefully this weekend so any advice at all would be a huge help
Thanks

[In The Ten Ring]

SpamCo.

Key Parts carries cab corners so I hear. Trucks abound that have cab corners. Figure out how big a piece you need, then have someone parting out a truck to cut that out of you. Weld the new (to you) piece in. Paint.

Here is a guy you can't go wrong with for parts.

406 325 2427 His name is "Eric" and he's super great to deal with. Wreckedchevy on here put me in touch with him.

[SpamCo]

Hey thanks man, I'll definitely take a look around to see what guys have to offer.
Any advice on the motor swap?

[c20pickup]

should be a fairly straight forward swap. i dont know about changing flywheels, that tbi motor will have a one piece rear main seal, so you may have to do some research on the differwances of flywheels, if there is any. also, when buying an intake make sure you buy the right one, the bolt holes change with vortec and tbi heads, they use four bolts, not a big deal at all just need to order the correct parts. if you can rob the serpentine off the tbi truck that would be a bonus, other wise keep all your bracketry for ps, alternator, etc. the oil pressure sensor, water sensor may be different, but will probably swap out with your old motor. just some thigns to look out for. it is a direct swap, just take your time. when the new engine goes in, id put new rear seal, front seal, timing cover gasket+new timing chain and gears, oil pan gasket+replace oil pump, intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets,new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and exhaust manifold gaskets (some say this is over the top, but why fight with a leak that could have been an easy fix when the engine was out, plus its peace of mind knowing you have a freshened up motor going in. if it were me id throw a set of full length headers, new intake and carb (maybe even a mild cam if money allows for it? you will already be into the motor so it wont be too hard) and drive the wheels off that truck!

[SpamCo]

Originally Posted by c20pickup

should be a fairly straight forward swap. i dont know about changing flywheels, that tbi motor will have a one piece rear main seal, so you may have to do some research on the differwances of flywheels, if there is any. also, when buying an intake make sure you buy the right one, the bolt holes change with vortec and tbi heads, they use four bolts, not a big deal at all just need to order the correct parts. if you can rob the serpentine off the tbi truck that would be a bonus, other wise keep all your bracketry for ps, alternator, etc. the oil pressure sensor, water sensor may be different, but will probably swap out with your old motor. just some thigns to look out for. it is a direct swap, just take your time. when the new engine goes in, id put new rear seal, front seal, timing cover gasket+new timing chain and gears, oil pan gasket+replace oil pump, intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets,new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and exhaust manifold gaskets (some say this is over the top, but why fight with a leak that could have been an easy fix when the engine was out, plus its peace of mind knowing you have a freshened up motor going in. if it were me id throw a set of full length headers, new intake and carb (maybe even a mild cam if money allows for it? you will already be into the motor so it wont be too hard) and drive the wheels off that truck!

I can take whatever I want off the tbi truck, I ran it in the demo derby at the local racetrack last year, so the only useable stuff left is the drivetrain lol. But yeah I'll definitely be doing a mild rebuild of the motor while it's out, just to freshen it up. Cam and headers are both possibilities, any suggestions on a good cam that would work well?

[c20pickup]

Originally Posted by SpamCo

I can take whatever I want off the tbi truck, I ran it in the demo derby at the local racetrack last year, so the only useable stuff left is the drivetrain lol. But yeah I'll definitely be doing a mild rebuild of the motor while it's out, just to freshen it up. Cam and headers are both possibilities, any suggestions on a good cam that would work well?

What are your plans with the truck? Imrunning a crane 274 in my fresh 350, and its operating range is 2200-6500rpm, which is to high for many people. Being you have mechanical brakes, and a stick, vacuum wont be of much concern. Alot of guys run the comp 268xe and ive never heard anything but good about it, seems like a nice driver/all around cam. That tbi engine may have roller lifters (not sure, i dont know all the specs on the newer motors) but cams are available for rollers. Best thing to do is flip open a summit or jegs catalog and start looking at different cams, pick a few you like and start asking around what people think of them, i got alot of engine help from the guys hear on the board.

[bowcoffin]

Sweet truck! Looks like you might want to pull the whole carpet piece out and see if there is any more rust... your rocker pannels have rust too so I'd check everything! Looks like there is unlimited potential though! You going to redo the wood bed or put in a metal bed floor?