Quick tool help please.

[Timborees]

Hi guys, I know a lot has been discussed about the removal of the lower ball joints and some of the frustration (that I'm feeling right now...!).

My BJ are origional so firmly been in place for a while. I have tried a pickle fork with a sledge hammer without luck. As you would mostly know there is a metal surround that attaches to the spindle and tie rod end that makes certain tools not fit. I'm in Oz, I'm coming to the US next month, I want the right BJ separator tool that will help. I want to order it and get it sent to my brothers place.

Can someone send me a link to a tool guaranteed to fit around the tie rod end surround and help me separate the BJ.

I will then order it and bring it back!!!! Some of the tools I tried here weren't big enough or had a large enough opening to do the job.

Thanks very much in advance for your help.

Cheers
Tim

[PGSigns]

Have you tried hitting the spindle with a large hammer right at the taper? What I do is back off the nut about 5 or 6 threads and hit the spindle with the setup still on the truck and let the pressure of the spring help out. There was also a thread in the 60 to 66 section where he used two large bolts with a section of pipe between them to make a screw jack to ad pressure on a set all ready off the truck.
Jimmy

[chakah]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

There was also a thread in the 60 to 66 section where he used two large bolts with a section of pipe between them to make a screw jack to ad pressure on a set all ready off the truck.
Jimmy

here ya' go http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624464

[Custom 68]

Yep what Jimmy is saying works atleast it has in the past for me. Just loosen the lower nut then smack pretty hard with a bit hammer at the lower portion on the side where the taper for the ball joint goes in.
Clear as mud?
Dave

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Custom 68

Yep what Jimmy is saying works atleast it has in the past for me. Just loosen the lower nut then smack pretty hard with a bit hammer at the lower portion on the side where the taper for the ball joint goes in.
Clear as mud?
Dave

x3. Back off the lower nut making sure there is full thread engagement still. Raise the truck & smack the BJ area of the spindle using the pressure from the compressed coil to assist.

Worst case scenario's (similar to Timborees case), I've had to use this method & have a buddy wacking on the pickle fork @ the same time. If it's tools you want though, try Snap-On's Super Duty impact hammer w/the assorted tip package. That SOaG will get things apart.....


http://store.snapon.com/Super-Duty-A...--P739856.aspx
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....e=&dir=catalog

[Carmen Black]

I had a full front end service tool kit from OTC that proved about worthless because I couldn't get any of the tools to fit.

Finally, I was able to wedge one of those cheap 2 ton floor jacks inside the spindle upside down so that the cup of the jack was pressing the lower ball joint stud and the bottom of the jack was pressing the upper ball joint area. Pump the jack to exert a lot of pressure and then also used the pickle fork and hammer to pop it. I couldn't get a 3 ton floor jack to fit in the space, so that is why I had to pull out the cheap 2 ton one.

I didn't have to worry about the spring because the prior owner cut the crap out of them and they were just rattling loose in the pocket.

And I am pretty certain all of my ball joints were original and they were stubborn as heck.

[Timborees]

Originally Posted by Carmen Black

I had a full front end service tool kit from OTC that proved about worthless because I couldn't get any of the tools to fit.

Finally, I was able to wedge one of those cheap 2 ton floor jacks inside the spindle upside down so that the cup of the jack was pressing the lower ball joint stud and the bottom of the jack was pressing the upper ball joint area. Pump the jack to exert a lot of pressure and then also used the pickle fork and hammer to pop it. I couldn't get a 3 ton floor jack to fit in the space, so that is why I had to pull out the cheap 2 ton one.

I didn't have to worry about the spring because the prior owner cut the crap out of them and they were just rattling loose in the pocket.

And I am pretty certain all of my ball joints were original and they were stubborn as heck.

Thanks for the advice guys. I was looking at those OTC tools.... Glad to hear they may not work. If anyone has found a separator tool that can/has work/fit, then please let me know....!!! I'm about to take it to the shop to do..!!!

[BigMike]

I agree with Jimmy, Dave & Scoti. I have been wrenching on mostly GM & Air Cooled VW's for 35+ years. I have never used anything other than a small sledge or heavy hammer to remove ball joints and tie rods from spindles. Never broke or cracked any of them and it ALWAYS worked. You have to hit them in the right place. Back the nut off about 3 to 5 turns (prevents you from hitting and damaging the threads), turn the wheel so you can get the best access, and hit it until it pops off. Just be precise and try not to hit anything else, you're not really gonna hurt anything unless you hit your brake line where the hose connects to the frame or caliper.

I know there may be some people that cringe, but many people use this method. My dad taught me when I was 16 and have done it well over 100+ times and never had an issue.

The red dots are where you need to focus the blows. You need to hit them fairly hard and just continue until they pop off. Now I would advise against this if your parts are powder coated or painted up really nice because it will chip the paint, other than that no damage aside from some small denting in the steel. The same applies for the lower ball joint as well. Also, you are not limited to just the one side of the spindle, you can hit it from the other side as well or even the back of it if you remove the tie rod and can swing it around far enough.

Don't pay a shop to do the same thing you can do for free!

Hope this helps.

Mike

[BR3W CITY]

I've used the same picklefork and hammer that my dad has used since like 1981, and haven't had it fail me once (except when I missed and wanged my shock really hard).

I've also bought a cheap set of interchangeable air-tool ends, and used that picklefork to agitate joints out (smaller vehicles).

[NEWBIEC10]

BFH. Works every time.

[Timborees]

Thanks guys, especially Mike for the pics... They sure help a newbie like me...!! I'll have to give it another go, plenty of additional options to try.
Thanks again.... Btw... Does BFH stand for big f hammer..? I'd seen it used and guessed so..?

[Timborees]

Thanks guys, especially Mike for the pics... They sure help a newbie like me...!! I'll have to give it another go, plenty of additional options to try.
Thanks again.... Btw... Does BFH stand for big f hammer..? I'd seen it used and guessed so..?

[NEWBIEC10]

Originally Posted by Timborees

Thanks guys, especially Mike for the pics... They sure help a newbie like me...!! I'll have to give it another go, plenty of additional options to try.
Thanks again.... Btw... Does BFH stand for big f hammer..? I'd seen it used and guessed so..?

You nailed it! BFH= BIG F@$#!%& Hammer, 3 good hits with a 4lb hammer and they separated faster than Dennis Rodman and Carmen Electra. Lol

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by NEWBIEC10

You nailed it! BFH= BIG F@$#!%& Hammer, 3 good hits with a 4lb

Thats barely BFH territory!

[Timborees]

Chakah, that sounds like a great plan..... Thanks for the link!!!

[Hart_Rod]

This is the best ball joint separator that I have found:

http://scandc.com/new/node/183