72 k20 front axle qestion

[nitrosport_5]

I've got my 72 k20 front dana 44 apart and going back together. I only took the brake backing plates and anything attached with those 6 bolts. Nothing else. Once I got it back together after repainting and having a couple pieces rechromed, my tires are tipped out at the top and in at the bottom slightly. This is with the axle sitting on the ground with only the weight of a bare frame. This normal? If not what did I do wrong? I do have an axle truss I reinstalled. Did I get it too tight?

Thanks

[special-K]

I can't see where anything you did could cause this. My thought is it must have been this way before and you didn't notice. The only other thing would be if there had been shims used on the spindles for caster adjustment that were put in differently. The axles is rigid and,basically,would have to be bent to have the caster off. Off all the 4wds I've had,none have ever needed shims for caster. The trusses came out to prevent any axle flex or bending. It certainly doesn't have the strength to pull an axle out of shape. At least I can't imagine it could.

[mjensen]

I could be wrong, but I think there is an adjustable sleeve in the top ball joint that would allow for minimal adjustments to the camber. Mine has the same trouble after replacing my ball joints, but I haven't tried adjusting that yet, so I'm not sure if it's going to fix it.

[OLDCHEV4X4]

I had a front dana 44 with a loose axle tube. If you had the same problem and over tighten the axle truss, it might give you the camber problem your looking at.

The upper ball joint sleeve is for pre loading the joint, not a camber adjustment.

[mjensen]

Originally Posted by OLDCHEV4X4

I had a front dana 44 with a loose axle tube. If you had the same problem and over tighten the axle truss, it might give you the camber problem your looking at.

The upper ball joint sleeve is for pre loading the joint, not a camber adjustment.

Yeah, you're right in their stock form. They do have the aftermarket eccentric sleeves which is what I guess I meant .

[OLDCHEV4X4]

Originally Posted by mjensen

Yeah, you're right .

I was right!! Please call my wife and tell her that I was right!
She will probably tell you that you are wrong.

[D.PASSMORE]

There is a stock shim behind the hub that is used to set camber of the tires. Its a round plate that fits into the inside studs (6 or 8 - 3/8 NFT). Its thicker on one side (end) and thinner on the opposite side. When you take it apart, you have to ensure both sides are the same for whatever camber you desire on the tires.

[D.PASSMORE]

At the end of the arrow - shim fits around face.

[nitrosport_5]

thanks guys. I will have to check that shim. if that fails i will take the truss off and see if it corrects it. it also could be an illusion since i have no body on the frame currently. whenever i get some time i will pull it back apart and let you know what i find.

[72longbed]

nitrosport_5,
you hit the nail right on the head! I have done a few 'frame up' restorations and the 4x4's all sit this way (in my experience) with fresh springs and front end components until you lower an engine/trans, cab, front rad support, fenders, hood, bed, etc. onto the frame. Do not rush to 'correct' something that ain't yet broke, until you have all the weight on the truck.

That's just been my experience.

72

[BigRed76]

The vehicle weight will have zero effect on the camber angles on a solid axle. So once the rest of the truck is together the camber will remain unchanged.

[nitrosport_5]

I double checked everything and its all correct as far as I see. So it may just be an illusion but I'll wait and address it once in have the body in the frame. The way mine is assembled is

Cone that has needle bearing for axle shaft, brake plate, rotor

. There are no shims installed. Everything is as it was before I tore it apart. So I will report back once in get it back together and see of it was an illusion or truly off