Wiring an Aftermarket Washer Pump

[LSUMurse]

I looked at multiple threads and never really "saw" what I was looking for. Using this method, there is zero cutting on your wiring harness. I do much better with pictures, so here's what I did:

Pic #1 - The dark blue wire is the negative and the yellow wires are the positive. This connection is to the stock washer pump. Slide a small screwdriver between the plastic of the boot and the terminal to be able to slide the terminals out of the boot.

Pic #2 - Crimp on some insulated blade terminals to the black and white wires of your washer pump (Blue would probably work better, but I only had yellow). Connect the blue wire to your negative wire on your pump (in my case black) and yellow wires to the positive wire on your pump (mine was white). I put a little extra electrical tape around the fittings to make sure I didn't have a short.

Pic #3 - Prime and mount your pump. I got ghetto and wire tied mine to the wiper motor. I didn't want to mount it in the engine compartment and not sure where I really want it to go. It is quite loud.

Pic #4 - Eureka!!!! The single stream of water coming out is quite comical. (I don't know why my computer flips pics)

[Andy4639]

I hope it never leaks on you.

I bought a small GM car washer jug with the electric pump made on it. I love it + I installed the delay wipers also from a board member here.

[LSUMurse]

So far so good on the leaking.

I saw your post regarding the tank. I may go that route, this way is seriously loud in the cab. Did it wire up the same way?

[Rich72C10]

Thank you for this posting, just what I needed!

Man, this was a bear to get to, I have a A/C truck! Though the biggest problem is that my motor to cowl seal just pretty much broke into a 1,000 bits - so now I need to order a seal. That totally sucks!

[Andy4639]

Here is another way to do it. 2 threads on wiring up a electric pump and jug. And you want have to worry about water leaking in the cab.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/....php?p=8841008


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=7582990

[Rich72C10]

Thank you Andy4639 but I kind of gone down this road and got it all ready to install. Just wished I knew I'd likely need to replace the Motor/Firewall seal. Small part holding me up!

[HO455]

I did very similar conversion in my Burban. If you don't have a check valve in the suction line near the tank your pump will constantly losing its prime. They can be found on newer cars at the wrecking yard for cheap. The new rotary style pumps just don't pull nearly as much suction as the factory pumps did.
I hope you put some heat shrink or tape around those connections.

[firedemon]

thats a lot of exposed metal on those connectors shrink tube or at least tape them up a little hate to see ya melting wires

[Rich72C10]

I'm using heat shrink, two levels on the 12v. Then I'll use a wee bit of electrical tape with a tab exposed to allow it to be unraveled easier.

As for a "check valve" - that's a super-duper great idea. Thanks.

Though, I think if i was starting from zero with what I know now I would have done Andy4639's way.

Edit:
With time thinking about "leaking" or this pump even failing with the absolute pain of getting to the pump I would be putting on the wiper motor - I decided with going the Washer Reservoir pump route. I found one on Amazon. Hopefully I'll get all the parts this coming week. Too bad I did not come to the conclusion before taking the cowl / wiper / motor apart. But at least I decided to install a cowl screen, so removing the cowl was not a total waste of time!

[Rich72C10]

Well, I took Andy4639's comment to heart and bought a universal washer tank/pump off Amazon. It's a Kemi Moto and it appears I got the last one as it is no longer in stock but there were a few to choose from off Amazon.

I extended the washer's power from the dash using 16 AWG Stranded Dual Conductor wire to the pump in the engine bay. I used shrink tube, electrical tape and wire loom harness tape after soldering the wires together. I was able to use the forward (to the grill) original washers tank's mounting hole and then made a new hole for the new tank's bracket.

The new tank holds about the same as the original tank, perhaps 1/2 pint less? I am very happy with this new setup. I decided I NEVER wanted to have to go under the dash again for a washer pump! Now I need to figure out how to plug the washer line hole(s) in the firewall - as I took the lines out from the firewall into the dash. They are now "T'ed" in the engine bay.

[Andy4639]

Now go to the junk yard and look at the SUV's that have the rear wiper arms. Get the spray nozzles off of them and route the water lines to the wiper arms. The spray nozzles will make cleaning the windshield much better since they will cover the whole swipe instead of just one area. Once you get the nozzles put them in boiling water with some vise grips on the opening and let them get good warm take them out and place on the wiper arm and tighten them down. They will cool off and be the right size to stay put on the arm.

[Rich72C10]

you really need to stop giving me ideas .... LOL

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

you really need to stop giving me ideas .... LOL

[BigBird05]

Do you have a close up pic of the hose coming out of the cowl by the wiper arm?

[kaycee]

LSUMurse put a piece of rubber between the pump and motor ,I did mine the same way and I dont even hear mine. Works like a charm

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

Do you have a close up pic of the hose coming out of the cowl by the wiper arm?

While I had the cowl off I very lightly sanded the curve area of the opening around the wiper head. I made it just enough so it wouldn't pinch the hose.
In fact you really don't need to though there is enough room once it's in place but I wanted to make sure.
I had some touch up paint already so I just touched it up and you can't even tell it.