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#1 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Mosier,oregon
Posts: 295
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radiator...repair or replace...
New radiator but got damaged while in storage....
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#2 |
Carpe manana
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Eau Claire, WI
Posts: 12,376
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Re: radiator...repair or replace...
Take it to a radiator shop if you have one locally - looks like a brass/copper radiator that's worth the repair attempt.
__________________
1972 K5 CST Highlander Blazer: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=708547 1972 K20 Cheyenne Super: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=528308 ![]() |
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#3 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Re: radiator...repair or replace...
That's a while-you-wait repair to any decent radiator shop. He will solder up those little damaged areas and send you on your way for reasonable money. A new radiator of that quality is gonna run you in the neighborhood of 250+ dollars. The 100 dollar cheapies they sell at the parts store are just that, cheap.
__________________
I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
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#4 |
Old Skool Club
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas"
Posts: 10,880
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Re: radiator...repair or replace...
When I was a poor college student, I drove a '56 Mercury. Those old Y-blocks have a tendency toward reduced oiling of the rocker arms. So, the aftermarket developed a system to route oil from the sending unit area to the rocker arms. Long story short: We removed the rocker arm and shaft ass'y and my uncle had me to fire it up. I'd left a 1/2x9/16 wrench on top of the air cleaner. The uneven-running engine caused the wrench to fly off of the air cleaner and the fan tossed it thru my radiator.
My uncle said, "No problem. I've done radiator repair, too". So, out with the radiator and then he pinched the tubes (3 of them) closed with some needlenose pliers, then soldered them real nice. I lost a little bit of the fins in that area, but that sucker ran nice and cool for another year and I sold it. I don't think the aluminum radiators can use this kind of repair...which is why I have kept my original radiator even after replacing it.....just needs a core.
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Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was. |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Spanish Fork Ut
Posts: 370
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Re: radiator...repair or replace...
Too bad you still don't have that 56 Merc.
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" Dead Pumpkin" 67 Chevy short bed, 292 I6, 4spd manual. Fan of the "Slant Noses". ![]() 93' Toyota pickup 2WD 2dr and 32mpg. Daily driver. 300k+ Members I've met... Mister-B |
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#6 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 2,281
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Re: radiator...repair or replace...
Quote:
I say get it fixed. If you choose not to fix it... send it to me. hahaha... I got a friend that owns a radiator shop.
__________________
My Trucks: 1967 Chevrolet Short Wide Box 327 TH350 9" w/3.90 gears paint will be White - Current Project 1967 Chevrolet Custom LWB 283 TH400 3.73 Posi, no-AC, no-PS, no-PB, bench-seat, small-window - mostly orig driver 1967 Chevrolet CST LWB originally a 327 TH400 3.73 Posi AC PS PB, had Buddy Buckets, Small Window - parts truck 1967 Chevrolet CST LWB, 283 MT 3.73 had Buddy Buckets, Panoramic Window - parts truck 2001 Chevrolet 3500 2WD Crew Cab Dually 8.1L Allison White |
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#7 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Mosier,oregon
Posts: 295
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Re: radiator...repair or replace...
Thanks guys...I will be swinging buy the radiator shop my granpa's neighbor owns tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes.
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pocahontas Arkansas
Posts: 684
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Re: radiator...repair or replace...
Now I know many will laugh but I have a fix that works. I slice open the tube and using a tooth pick cram part of a cotton ball each direction really pack it in there. while im doing the first step im chewing the pink bubble gum. I then pack the bubble gum in the hole to hold the cotton. after that bubble gun gets hard its there. you could also use Jb weld or liquid nails instead of bubble gum. My 1945 international Td 14 bulldozer has ran many years with a cotton ball and bubble gum repaired radiator. I poked a large stick clean through he radiator clearing timber. I remember the boat anchor Y block fords and the non oiling rocker arms. by the time you found out they where dry the wear was so great that overhead oiler conversions would robb all the oil pressure and starve the bearings. I installed a grease alemite fitting on mine. When they started squeaking I would with the engine running pump them full with a grease gun filled with 90 Wt gear oil. Us poor boys have poor ways!
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