Mustang tank install help...

[legotech7]

Well, after all the research and measuring and back and forth with some folks on the net, I decided to get a mustang tank for my bag build. I had a LMC Blazer type tank under the bed, but it sat too low for my taste. It just didn't look right. So I got the tank from Tanks Inc. Nice tank except it wouldn't fit between the frame rails. where it was supposed to go. Seems that its a tad too wide at the bottom end about an inch on each side. So I would once again ask those in the know. If I cut out about an inch from each side of the bottom of the frame rail, will this hurt the strength and integrity of the frame? Will it weaken it much. I had to remove the rear brace, so I could slide the tank in. I was going to fab a tube frame to sit the tank in and bolt it down nice and neat. That would bring it up at least another inch and it wouldn't scrape the ground when I lay the truck out.

I should mention, my ride is a bagged 70 C10...

This is what I might need to cut out, where its marked. It would still leave me 2'' of the frame rail. I think it might work. I wasn't anticipating this little issue, but I need the advice of some one whose done this, before I proceed... Thanks all........

[SierraMtns]

I'm in the market of a under the bed tank. Can you post more pic and details about the tank? Sorry can't give any input about the frame. I'm new to metal work and welding.

[69chevytrucker]

if you are behind your axle you are fine to trim your frame just trim where you need keep it a close fit

[legotech7]

Yes its behind the axle and was told I would have nor problems. I will replace the piece I removed to get access to the inside of the frame rail. It will look nice neat when I'm done. I just needed some more input about notching out the frame....

Thanks 69chevytrucker

[legotech7]

Here's the link to where I got my tank. Lost of info here...SierraMtns......

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...ctory/home.htm

[legotech7]

Well while I'm figuring my tank install, something else accured to me, that this tank has no vent outlets. Now I know I could probably use a vented gas cap. But I used those before and didn't think they worked very well. If I just drill a hole on the top of the tank and tap it and used a barbed fitting, would that be alright? Or is there something else I can do to vent it properly?

[hfd410]

check my build thread, I used a mustang tank (68). I tapped the neck under the cap and threaded a hose bib into it for a vent as well as a vented cap. I used the Ford pickup tube for supply and brazed a penny over the return fitting. Then put a 90ohm sending unit in top of tank. Works great...

[Larry.sisk]

1972 short bed with after market tank between frame rails. Is this like what you replaced because it's too low? Just curious.

[legotech7]

Thanks hfd410, your tank looks exactly like mine. I'd like to ask a few more questions if I may..In pic, page #3, post#57, how exactly did you mount the tank?.. Did you just simply use four nuts and bolts and mounted it to the upper frame rail? And for the rear cross member, it looks like you used piece of angle iron of some sort, bolted it to the ends of the frame rails and bolted the end of the tank to that? Its how I would like to mount mine.

BTW, your build thread is awesome, beautiful truck, lots of information, thanks so much......

[legotech7]

Larry.sisk, almost similar, I used a 65 to 68 mustang tank because the over all depth of the tank was just 7-1/2 ''. The other tank I had measured 11-1/2''.
Because my truck is bagged when I lay it out, the tank would hit the ground. Plus it looked terrible when viewed from behind even with the bumper on. so this tank for me was the best option. I just needed Ideas as how to mount it. And I think I got some good ones from hfd410.... I got my tank from Tanks Inc. The pick up tube on this tank BTW, is built in to the tank at the rear. 3/8 threaded bung hole for you gas line...

Hope that helps.......

[legotech7]

Larry, looks like you a great starter project. Love the pics, keep en coming. I'm sure you'll find everything you need in the forum pages, Don't hesitate to ask... My ride will be a rat ride for now. Just like you the PO did a bunch of stuff to it I had to redo, and you know when you take things apart something else pops up and you gotta fix that too... Have fun....

[legotech7]

'68OrangeSunshine, the tank is a 16 gallon. There are bigger size tanks but for this project it was ideal for me... Maybe more stops to the gas station, but no biggie, it only going to be a weekend beater anyway......

[Larry.sisk]

Sorry guys but what is a SM465?

[Larry.sisk]

We'll I told ya scoobiedoo interior, question is what drug made him want it?

[legotech7]

Well got the tank hung up. What a job, must have put in and out at least half a dozen times,checking for fitment, clearances and the such. Still have to vent it and add the sending unit and should have that done soon. Then I'll put the bed back on and locate the air tank witch will set in the bed, plumb the air lines and wire the compressor, and I should be done. I hope...

Here are a few pics of the tank...

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Larry.sisk

Sorry guys but what is a SM465?

It's the GM code for the floor-shifting Muncie, Indiana-built 4-speed Syncro Mesh 465 manual transmission with a Granny-Gear. Made from 1968-on. Definately a high hump application.
If you're happy with 16 gallons, that's great. It's your rig. At least you won't pay too much at fill-up time. My '67 Suburban had a 20 gallon maintank and a 16 gallon auxiliary and that was never enough to feed its voracious 454.

And that Scooby-Do upholstery is hilarious. You should keep it just for the comedic factor.
My guess is Potheads, since they both have the munchies all the time, they have an affinity for the animated canine.

RutRo! after actually reading the earlier post, stating that your tranny is a Three-on-the-tree [Saginaw] modified to a floor shift lever, rather than a real SM465, you may get away with the low hump.

[hfd410]

sorry bout that been away a few days. thats what I did too, just built an angle iron frame and bolted it up just like that.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by hfd410

sorry bout that been away a few days. thats what I did too, just built an angle iron frame and bolted it up just like that.

Did you have to cut your frame too for the tank to fit?

[legotech7]

Yes I did, about an inch on each side of the bottom portion of the frame. That left about ab 1/8 of an inch of space on each side of the bottom of the tank, so it didn't touch the sides and the tank slid right in. The tricky part was bolting it down. As I mentioned before, I measured quite a bit and made sure all clearances were met. No rubbing or pinching anywhere. On this particular tank, the pick up tube is in bottom rear, so you might have to drill an access hole to run your fuel line in the cross member behind the differential. I had to drill a half inch hole and then used a large debering tool, just to widen it a bit more to run my 3/8 fuel line. Today, I'll install the fuel sender and add a vent hole at the top of the tank. Anyone have any suggestions on how to drill and tap a hole in the tank for the vent line?

[legotech7]

Well got my universal gas sender and cut to size, had to relocate the adjusting screws, float adjusted to where it needed to be. I have to say these universal units look cheaply made. I tested for resistance out of the tank and everything looked good... But.....I wanted to see what it looked like in the tank and already I ran into an issue.. The holes from the unit don't line up with those in the tank. Its a five hole unit, and I managed to put three screw in loosely, but the other two are off slightly. I'm thinking I could probably open the other two a bit on the unit flange. Also I just hooked up the fuel gauge wire to see if the gauge would move. Well it moved alright..., all the way past full and then some. And the tank is empty. I need to mention though this unit didn't come with a ground wire. I assumed that it would ground out through the tank and to the frame, but i will attach a ground wire from the top of one of the screws to the frame and hope it works that way. I hope this unit didn't crap out on me, I waited a week to get it and it wasn't cheap, just looks cheaply made. If anyone has any Ideas as to any of these issues, I'd appreciate some feed back if you please.

This sender was 24'' long, and now its 3-3/4'' long. The inside depth of the tank is 6-1/2''

[legotech7]

Well I had a disappointing day. Turned out the sender I got was defective. I should have suspected it might have been junk for what I paid for it. $22.00 bucks free shipping on ebay..I retested the resistance after I couldn't get the fuel gauge to do any thing. I tested the fuel gauge, and that was good. I was perplexed to say the least and a bit pissed off. I can't seem to get this truck on the road, things keep going south on me.. Anyway I will order the unit from tanks inc this time and hope for better luck.....

[Sammy]

Sometimes you get what you pay for. Hang in there!

[legotech7]

Yep, just ordered a another one. Hope this one is better......I just hate getting took... you know?....

[legotech7]

Ok, just in case any of you are installing a universal gas tank sender like I am, here's a little detail for you, you might not know about. Because these units you have to cut down to fit, what ever depth of your tank might be,.. there are usually 2 screws that hold the bottom portion of the cut sender to that upper portion of the sender ,like in the pic below. You see where the resistor wire, ( it has yellow shrink tube attached to the screw to the resistor ) that screw threads straight through to the other side oh that upper portion of the bracket. That will cause the ohm readings to go all over the scale, like what it was happening with me, so I thought that the unit was a bad one. What I did was isolate that screw from contacting that bracket, and used some tiny nylon washers I had lying around to bring that little screw up,( if you will ) and keep it from touching the bracket. That did the trick, and the unit is working as it should. Hooked it up dry to the fuel gauge, and she worked like a charm. Some of these units might be different because of different manufactures, but the principal is the same..
Thought I would share this for those with the same problem... I will be using the unit I ordered from some one else because of quality, I don't trust this one..

[SierraMtns]

When you mounted the tank to the frame did you put in rubber bushings between the mounting bolts? Or did you bolt the tank right to the frame?