A couple of questions

[72c10step]

I have a couple questions I hope ya'll can answer:

1. I have a starter problem. It's like the heatsink problem a lot of Chevy starters have when the starter gets hot (due to running headers with no heat shield), where you try to restart the motor after running it for a while and it either won't start, or cranks really slow, then starts. I discovered one of the two grounding straps that go from the motor to the firewall. Could this be causing enough resistance to do this? Also, where does this other one mount to? It's on the driver's side, the passenger one looks like its mounted with a sheetmatal screw, but the drivers side has no empty hole in the firewall for a screw. There are a few studs coming out from the inside. Can I just mount it on one of those? (I'll try to get a pic in the morning when it's light out).

2. I recently discovered my block was one of the ones made in Mexico. I heard these were basically junk. Is that pretty much what everyone else has heard?

Sorry for the long questions, just trying to explain the best I can the first time.

[1972ChevyGuy]

I could be wrong (more than likely I am, lol) But didnt the mexico blocks have more nickel?

[Kid]

I am not sure about the other strap you mention, but to help your starting problem, be sure the (engine) block is grounded good to your frame, ditto for the battery, or run a ground from the batt. to the block. I have found the best to use is welding cable (2gauge) for both +&- cables. Be sure to solder the ends on the cable. If that don't fix it, I would R&R the starter (alot of rebuilts are crap) just my 2 cents

[72c10step]

Here is a pic of my two engine to firewall grounding straps. You can see one dangling around the oil filler neck. My question here is, can I bolt the grounding strap on the driver's side to one of the studs on the firewall (in the circle on the right), or will this burn out whatever may be on the other side in the cab? Or, will I have to drill a hole in the cab and put a self tapping screw in? I'd rather not do that, but if I have to, then I will.

1972ChevyGuy, from what I have heard, the Mexican blocks use an inferior metal composition. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Kid, I just got some heavy gauge battery cables (can't remember what size, I'll have to check when I get home), that I'm going to try to install this weekend if its not raining. I don't have a place to work on this at my house, and my windshield is also leaking right now, so I don't want to drive it to my friend's house to work on it if it's wet out.

[Longhorn Man]

If you are not grounded properly, then it is a form of heat soak that you are describing.
The mexico blocks are not as bad as everyone makes them out to be...kinda like a points dist. It'll work, and it'll work for a very long time, but there is plenty of options that are better, although, for a performance build up, they should be avoided. (kinda like a points dist)

[tom hand]

All the Mr. Goodwrench 350's are made in mexico

[67Fleetsidedream]

Why does having more or less nickel in the block have anything to do with the quality of the block? What makes a Mexico block so bad? Sounds like a load of

[Longhorn Man]

High nickle blocks are the best thing to find. Nickle is hard, and does not wear very much.
That is why old caddy engines can be opened after 150,000 miles and only need honing done to they cylinders, while a lesser nickel content engine would need to go 30 over at a minumum.
I tore down the original 350 (high nickle) engine out of my blue longhoern after I spun 2 rod bearings,a dn the ridge at the top was hardly enough to catch a fingernail. This engine had 320,000 miles on it, and from the look of the rod bearings...it had never been in a machine shop. Everyone who looked agreed that the rod bearings were origial.
The mexican blocks had poor tolorances, and were an inferior alloy.
They are fine for the family station wagon, but not a performance aplication.

[72c10step]

The PO said he put a regular Goodwrench crate motor in my truck before I got it. I guess he wasn't ing me then.

[raggedjim]

I agree with rebuilding your starter, it's usually the cause of problems like starter drag, as the starter gets hot the bushings grow and the starter drags if there is wear. I found this out after installing heat sheilds and a remote solenoid, shoulda started with the starter...

Roger

[Huck]

If your starter drags only when hot, I doubt it's the block ground but more likely the starter it's self is going kaka. Get another starter and put in a heat shield over the solenoid.

The GM new crate 350 is make is MEXICO by GM. It has a 3 year 50K mile warranty and currently costs about $1400. I have been running mine for 3 years without a hitch. They are designed for cars and light trucks (non-commercial application).