Cecil the 1953 5 window / S-10 / 5.7 TPI

[oossuuu754]

First of all I am new to this forum. So here is a little background, I was given my step dads 53 five window (Cecil) a few years ago to eventually give to my son when he is old enough. My stepdad bought this when he turned 16 in 1975 and it is really good condition. After some study I decided that I would turn this into a rusto mod, complete with a 85 S-10 undercarriage. For most is not all of this, I have contacted SKYMANGS and he will do transformation since I didn't have a lot of time (or expertise) to get this wrapped up because I wanted my mom to see this vehicle before she eventually lost the battle to ALS. Unfortunately that didn't happen, but now I want my step-dad to see his old truck, drive it and help him cope with mom's passing.

Shawn

[oossuuu754]

Now the plan is to do a Rusto Mod on a 83 S-10 that I have and transplant a 5.7 TPI that came from my 1987 IROC-Z that I purchased new but was unfortunately totaled a mere 9 months later. (That's a story for a different thread)

[oossuuu754]

One thing I can do is disassemble. Not the best at reassembling but I can take things apart. So I set out to remove Cecil from his frame and then start the process of removing the 40 year old white paint.

[oossuuu754]

The donor S-10 is a drivable 85 that I picked up on CL. Unfortunately this one doesn't have a 700r so I will have to use another CL find. My goal is to drop this vehicle to about an overall stance of 6'4 or so. Chris is going to install drop spindles and lowering blocks in the back. The tire wheel combo is Ridler 695 (18x8 and 20x10) with meaty Kumo Tires (255/55/18 front 275/55/20back) I prefer more sidewall but this may not allow me to get the overall height I want, we will see.

[bauto52]

Originally Posted by oossuuu754

The donor S-10 is a drivable 85 that I picked up on CL. Unfortunately this one doesn't have a 700r so I will have to use another CL find. My goal is to drop this vehicle to about an overall stance of 6'4 or so. Chris is going to install drop spindles and lowering blocks in the back. The tire wheel combo is Ridler 695 (18x8 and 20x10) with meaty Kumo Tires (255/55/18 front 275/55/20back) I prefer more sidewall but this may not allow me to get the overall height I want, we will see.

I have started my swap. Can anyone tell me,,,with the S10 sitting on same size tires on concrete if my frame should be an inch lower on the left side at the front s10 cab mount?? sorry to use this thread but havent start my own yet, thanks

[oldman3]

Will keep an eye on the build...Jim

[oossuuu754]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Will keep an eye on the build...Jim

Oldman3 I am hopeful to have the truck at Ole Sarge's (SKYMANGS) shop in October. He is working on a 32 roadster now, then another S-10 swap before he can start on mine.

I spent some time hunting Turkey up in the West Plains area back in the 80s. My uncle Willard Sparks (Sparks Farms) used to own the Doan's Ranch.

[oossuuu754]

Did some priming and painting this weekend on the hood and the bed. Both of these had been stripped before and there was little in any of the Ocean Green left. I laid a black primer and then about 2-3 coats of Ocean Green. I will then hit the Green with fine/medium grit and age it back to the patina the Cab has.

[oossuuu754]

Here is a mock look of what the hood fender and wheel will be.

[oossuuu754]

I have had a couple PMs about the tire wheel combos. I went with Ridler 695 and Kumho ecsta packagae. As I stated I wanted more sidewall and was willing to give up and inch or so of height to get the meatier look I was going for. I am pretty sure that we are going to have to mini tub the bed and hopefully we wont have any issues up front we will see.

[tiddlar]

cecil,,,,, like the name.. and me too, i can take anything apart, putting it back together.. well thats a different story. Good luck on the build i like the truck .

[oossuuu754]

Cecil was the name he was given by my Step Dad in 75, so it will stick. Will try to get some more photos up this weekend. I am hopeful to be mostly thru the "rusto" process. Here's a sneak peak at one of the fenders completed so far.

[57taskforce]

Has the tpi been sitting since 87? Looks like a pretty cool build so far!

[oossuuu754]

Yes the TPI has been in my dads shop since about 1990. It is not locked up, and I have been PB blasting the cylinders the last few weeks and turning them every few days. Per some fellow forum members I picked up the Wiring Harness and ECM from http://www.larryselectricsite.com/index.html

[Highsider]

Looks like a great project.
I will keep an eye on it, also.

[Root2812]

Those wheels are great. I can't wait to see what they look like on the truck. Just the other day I was looking at tires and thinking how I wanted an 18 inch rim but didn't want a rubber band tire.

[oossuuu754]

Ok the push is on to get most of the body work finished up before Cecil goes to SKYMANGS on 10-12-14. I have finished up all the fenders, the bed, the hood only thing left is the Cab.

[oossuuu754]

Here are the pictures of the "aging" process on the bed and hood. Only thing left to do is seal the patina in with Penetrol.

[Rednek13x]

That looks great! How did you do that? Acid?

[oossuuu754]

Originally Posted by Rednek13x

That looks great! How did you do that? Acid?

I completely stripped/sandblasted the parts that I wanted to age. Flat Black Primer then painted them. After it dried for a few days I then sanded the entire part with mixture of coarse, medium and fine grit sanding disk on my orbital to give the pain the weathered look.

To make the rust you first need to completely sand any spot you want to rust to bare metal. Then you mix up a spray bottle with these ingredients.

16 oz Hydrogen Peroxide (fresh bottle un open is best)
2 oz white vinegar
1/2 Tbsp of Salt

lightly spray the bare metal and rust will form almost immediately. Let this dry then repeat. The more time you repeat the process it the darker it will be. You can also use a small propane torch to speed up the drying process.

After the rust has dried for about 24 hours, take fresh small paint brush and gently remove any extremely loose rust pieces. I use leaf blower to blow the loose particles away. Be careful because most of the rust will wipe away at this point.

After you removed the loose particles you need to treat and seal the rust with Pentrol. You can buy this at Lowes or Home Depot in the paint department. This will adhere it surface.

Lastly you should clear the patina with a satin or gloss clear. I am going to do that in about a year.

It is not as difficult as this sounds, but it does take a little time sanding.

[ghettoluxury]

Originally Posted by oossuuu754

I completely stripped/sandblasted the parts that I wanted to age. Flat Black Primer then painted them. After it dried for a few days I then sanded the entire part with mixture of coarse, medium and fine grit sanding disk on my orbital to give the pain the weathered look.

To make the rust you first need to completely sand any spot you want to rust to bare metal. Then you mix up a spray bottle with these ingredients.

16 oz Hydrogen Peroxide (fresh bottle un open is best)
2 oz white vinegar
1/2 Tbsp of Salt

lightly spray the bare metal and rust will form almost immediately. Let this dry then repeat. The more time you repeat the process it the darker it will be. You can also use a small propane torch to speed up the drying process.

After the rust has dried for about 24 hours, take fresh small paint brush and gently remove any extremely loose rust pieces. I use leaf blower to blow the loose particles away. Be careful because most of the rust will wipe away at this point.

After you removed the loose particles you need to treat and seal the rust with Pentrol. You can buy this at Lowes or Home Depot in the paint department. This will adhere it surface.

Lastly you should clear the patina with a satin or gloss clear. I am going to do that in about a year.

It is not as difficult as this sounds, but it does take a little time sanding.

Here is the info for you.

[skymangs]

Well, Shawn and his wife arrived with "Cecil" today... Went right into the new shop, before drywall, insulation, and wiring! That's about right for me, Truck in the bay before the building's done... I'll post pics tomorrow.

Jim; I haven't done a thread on this one, or my last one come to think of it... Too busy. I'll make some time to do a thread on the '54.

Elco; Thanks brother... appreciate the props. Nice seeing you at All Truck Nats last month!

[oossuuu754]

Well as Chris mentioned we loaded up Cecil and headed North to MO. Weather cooperated for the most part and other than a blow out on the trailer about 30 miles into the trip it was uneventful. Chris my wife said she couldn't tell who was more giddy when we got there you or me. That enthusiasm is why I am excited about letting you bring Cecil back to life. Sorry we didn't get more photos but it was getting late and Chris and his family were about to go the football game.

I will say his 49 is going to be SWEET when its done!

[oossuuu754]

Originally Posted by oossuuu754

I completely stripped/sandblasted the parts that I wanted to age. Flat Black Primer then painted them. After it dried for a few days I then sanded the entire part with mixture of coarse, medium and fine grit sanding disk on my orbital to give the pain the weathered look.

To make the rust you first need to completely sand any spot you want to rust to bare metal. Then you mix up a spray bottle with these ingredients.

16 oz Hydrogen Peroxide (fresh bottle un open is best)
2 oz white vinegar
1/2 Tbsp of Salt

lightly spray the bare metal and rust will form almost immediately. Let this dry then repeat. The more time you repeat the process it the darker it will be. You can also use a small propane torch to speed up the drying process.

After the rust has dried for about 24 hours, take fresh small paint brush and gently remove any extremely loose rust pieces. I use leaf blower to blow the loose particles away. Be careful because most of the rust will wipe away at this point.

After you removed the loose particles you need to treat and seal the rust with Pentrol. You can buy this at Lowes or Home Depot in the paint department. This will adhere it surface.

Lastly you should clear the patina with a satin or gloss clear. I am going to do that in about a year.

It is not as difficult as this sounds, but it does take a little time sanding.

Go to post 17 on this thread

[oossuuu754]

SKYMANGS:

After 6 hours of fruitless engine diagnostics I thought I should actually accomplish something today. So, Cecil's new arm rests and inside visor went in today. These are 55-59 two tone arm rests in Silver and Black. They look right at home here though!