Watts link w/ lower parallel and bag on bar ( arms )

[NEWFISHER]

Hey guys,

I'm running out of ideas and looking for some advise. 46 burb with outer fenders ( tire moves up into the outer fender--doesn't have a bedside) and a narrow frame. No room to mount outboard parallel. I am notching the frame for a 4" C and want to retain as much interior floor as possible. Only the C and the pumpkin bubble cut into the floor. Tried a triangulated 4 link and the upper bars crash into the floor when the axle moves into the C. Space is limited with bag brackets etc.

Anyone do a watts link and some lower bars( inboard with bag on bar) to save some space and not butcher the floor?

[NEWFISHER]

Ordered a watts link from Allday Fab who took all of my specs of frame and axle and is building one specific to the 46 chassis. I regrouped and fell back on my roots...stopped by my buddy's rock crawling fab shop and picked up a box full of different brackets and 1 1/2" DOM tube. If i can get a supercharged 4runner straight axled on 37s and flex a mile , i should be able to bag a classic and drop it only 9 inches....right?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Ordered a watts link from Allday Fab who took all of my specs of frame and axle and is building one specific to the 46 chassis. I regrouped and fell back on my roots...stopped by my buddy's rock crawling fab shop and picked up a box full of different brackets and 1 1/2" DOM tube. If i can get a supercharged 4runner straight axled on 37s and flex a mile , i should be able to bag a classic and drop it only 9 inches....right?

Yep, I would think you sure can LoL. I love the project BTW.....

[NEWFISHER]

Watts link showed up today...WOW! Nice stuff. Bad news, its not going to fit in the space I have planned( need to keep the rear seat and dont want to loose a huge section of floor). Back to square one with a garage full of tri links, parrallel 4 links, watts, bags, brackets etc.

Im still planning on the outboard 2 link long trailing arms and now looking into a custom panhard from frame on the top mount to the axle plate ubolt area on the lower. Looks like in a 7 inch travel the bar will grow 3/4 inch on a 40 inch bar. I will have 1/4 " before the tire crashes into the inner fender. Any other suggestions greatly appreciated.

Again...1946 suburban and no body builds any off the shelf stuff. Would love to do a PB system but im on my own learing as I go on this one

[SCOTI]

What about a parallel 4-bar set-up that utilizes a diagonal track bar (tied into the 2 lower links) to keep things centered?

[NEWFISHER]

That was my first plan, but thier is no room for the upper bar. The bracket is too tall on each end and collides with the body. These things are super narrow and space is really limited. Oe trailing arm set up gets in the way of the sub fuel tank. If moved to the rear the profile of the tail section would expose most of it. Same problem with the uppers on a triangulated set up plus it uses more floor.

Thanks for responding and following along.

Anything wrong with a sturdy 2 link lower bar outside frame set up and a long panhard bar behind the axle?

Planning on bags just inboard of the frame ahead of the axle and shocks just outboard of u bolts to outside frame going to the rear.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

That was my first plan, but thier is no room for the upper bar. The bracket is too tall on each end and collides with the body. These things are super narrow and space is really limited. Oe trailing arm set up gets in the way of the sub fuel tank. If moved to the rear the profile of the tail section would expose most of it. Same problem with the uppers on a triangulated set up plus it uses more floor.

Thanks for responding and following along.

Anything wrong with a sturdy 2 link lower bar outside frame set up and a long panhard bar behind the axle?

Planning on bags just inboard of the frame ahead of the axle and shocks just outboard of u bolts to outside frame going to the rear.

Porterbuilts 4-bar set-ups seem to place the upper bar @ about the same height as the top of the axle tube. Have you checked out their brackets?

I'm not a fan of 2-link set-ups because of the pinion variance of the range of travel. But, I've seen enough of them to know they can work (functional but def not ideal).

Only thing I try to do is keep the spring/shock as close as possible.

[N2TRUX]

What about a 3 link using lower parallel bars and an upper wishbone? Any room for that?

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

What about a 3 link using lower parallel bars and an upper wishbone? Any room for that?

The mounting tabs for the upper wishbone at the diff or axle tube would need to be no taller than the top of the tube or the floor would have to be removed for the bone and brackets. Okay on a truck with a raised floor but inside a suburban with seats you would shove heads into the roof lol. If the 27" tire is stuffed within 1/2" of hitting the outboard style inner fender, the top of the axle tube kisses the bottom of the floor. My goal was to open up a hole or bubble for the 3rd member to come through the floor( will hide under the rear seat) and open up the floor on each side next to the wheel tubs( partial tub and partial floor 4x 8 section) and allow the axle to travel as far up as it could with the tube just beneath the floor, the tires almost touching the inner of the outer fender ( 46 burb..pod style rear fenders) and keep the rear seating area without cutting into what would be thier foot area when seated.
A wishbone might work but the bars and tabs would have to only be as high as the o.d. of the tube which would place them at the front of the tube. I have zero knowledge if this would be an effective mechanical advantage or not. With the lower bars mounted on the frame side, the wish bone upper would only have 3" at the most of seperation parrallel to the lowers through the cycle. I could rethink my lowers and move them under the frame vs side of frame and get a few more inches of seperation. I was going to run them inboard but they would have been really short as the pass side has the fuel tank. Moving the tank has 2 problems. Rear tail kick up and profile would show the tank and it would also leave a giant fill hole in the side of the quarter panel.

[NEWFISHER]

We all like pics right?

[SCOTI]

Ken is on to something..... What about a 3-link that would fit your set-up? TCI's Torque Arm arrangement places the 3rd link under the housing & the outer links can be placed similar to traditional lower 4-bar links.

[NEWFISHER]

44" lower arms and frame side mount brackets

[andrewmp6]

I believe you can mount a watts link anywhere it won't bind.The 98 and up crown vics have one on top of the center of the diff.

[NEWFISHER]

Top or rear are the only spots a diff mounted watts will run. A chassis mounted watts is a whole different ball game. I could mount it on the top if i had a truck and wasnt conceared about occupants on a seat inside a suburban with less room to start with.