Later model serpentine belt brackets on early 70s LS9 small block

[greywurm]

I am junk yard shopping parts to swap in with what I believe is a 72 sbc 350 LS9. The few places I've been to do not have older trucks, but have early 90's maybe late 80's trucks. I need brackets for accessories and pulleys for everything. Looking at their inventory I have a half dozen trucks with serpentine belt setups on mostly 5.7 motors and one 5.0. Pretty much everything is there.

Can I use these on my motor? I've seen the alternator on either side of the motor.

Alternator is clocked differently than the 12 and 6 position that I currently have but I planned on going with a higher amp internally regulated one anyways. I pretty much can go any direction like I have a blank slate. I do have a long water pump and stuff from my 250 like alternator and power steering but I don't have to use those.

And eventually I will want to mount an a/c compressor.

[greywurm]

Oh, scratch the reference to brackets on the 5.0 motor. It was stripped. I saw headers that I might want to take. Those will fit a 350 right? Assuming I won't have clearance issues...

[Bigdav160]

Yes and the brackets are an easy and tidy conversion. I'm now running Camaro brackets on my Sububan

[hugger6933]

The be brackets from the 88-89 chev truck you should shy away from. they were a steel design and were big and bulky. The 90 up to 95 are the best ones to have [in my opinion] they put the A/C on the top pass side and the alt on the top drivers. I 96 when the General with his great wisdom brought to us the great flowing Vortec heads the brackets changed but still bolt on to the older blocks just put the a/c compressor driver side and the alt on the pass. To make the change over work you need the water pump as well because it turns backwards than the one you have now and you won't notice until driving slower speeds or in traffic and cause overheat problems. That goes for the fan and clutch as well. You will need a later model steering box or the easiest thing to do there is use you old power steering line and unscrew the big nut from P/s pump and replace with your older one because the internal threads are different.[that big nut also holds the pump pressure regulator] If it helps any to expand the search on this type of set up for the alloy type serp acc drive set up. the 4.3 S10 trucks had them as well and the ones off of the 4.3 trucks will work just the same as the one off of a 305 or a 350 full sized truck. Good luck it is a very easy swap and looks very good once done. Jim

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

The be brackets from the 88-89 chev truck you should shy away from. they were a steel design and were big and bulky. The 90 up to 95 are the best ones to have [in my opinion] they put the A/C on the top pass side and the alt on the top drivers. I 96 when the General with his great wisdom brought to us the great flowing Vortec heads the brackets changed but still bolt on to the older blocks just put the a/c compressor driver side and the alt on the pass. To make the change over work you need the water pump as well because it turns backwards than the one you have now and you won't notice until driving slower speeds or in traffic and cause overheat problems. That goes for the fan and clutch as well. You will need a later model steering box or the easiest thing to do there is use you old power steering line and unscrew the big nut from P/s pump and replace with your older one because the internal threads are different.[that big nut also holds the pump pressure regulator] If it helps any to expand the search on this type of set up for the alloy type serp acc drive set up. the 4.3 S10 trucks had them as well and the ones off of the 4.3 trucks will work just the same as the one off of a 305 or a 350 full sized truck. Good luck it is a very easy swap and looks very good once done. Jim

X2 on everythings said here. Imo, having had a 93 gmc with 350 tbi engine and pancake compressor as well as a 97 chevy with vortec 350 and ht6 (?) compressor, i would stick with setup off tbi trucks as compressor and alternator are about half the cost. In either case, buy or borrow (autozone) a ps pump pulley puller to get the ps pump off. Its the only way to get to the bolts holding the bracket to the block.

[pinturbo75]

iirc I had a 90 chevy pickup that was 4.3 v6 and I installed a 70 350 and I used the v6 serpentine brackets on the v8.... so that may add to your list of usable parts for the conversion.

[greywurm]

Well that is superb. I am heading back out there in a little bit.

[mechanicalman]

Take it all, including the fan/clutch setup. If you want to keep your present pressure hose on the p/s, you can use your old p/s pump, however, and it will fit the serp bracket if you install the newer metric mounting studs off the newer pump, the end that screws into the pump is the same size and thread. If you use the newer pump, simply use the old "flow valve" (the thing that looks like an adapter on the back of the pump where the pressure hose attaches) in order to keep your stock pressure hose. I guess it depends on if you save money with or without the pump and how good is your old pump.

Go ahead and get the R4 compressor, unless you want an sanden and intend to get adaptors for that compressor. I say run the R4 till it dies then get the sanden. You don't have to hook up the compressor right away just don't plug it in and it'll free wheel.

Get one with the compressor on the passenger side, and the alternator on the driver's side.

BTW, I'd stay away from the crack-prone steel plate style and get the cast aluminum brackets.

Be careful with the high amp alternator, if you have a gauge set in your cluster that includes an amp-meter. It's not recommended to have more than a 60 amp alternator with that set-up due to risk of over-load to the meter.

I know, a lot of people have done it and got away with it, including me. But for me, no more.

[greywurm]

Alright, I am back. Thanks for the info gentlemen.

I pulled parts from what I believe to be an early 90's suburban 5.7l. However, the AC bracket cracked around one of the compressor mounting bolts, so I opted to use a bracket from another truck, a 93 5.0l.

The alt/ps bracket fit like a glove, but the ac bracket from the 5.0 seems to have been a bad idea. The upper right corner bolt doesnt match the holes on my head. You can see in the photos below. I marked with aa silver sharpie on the head where the bracket bolt hole wants to go.

Did I make a bad assumption that the 5.0 bracket is the same as the 5.7 or do I have to do something to make the serpentine belt brackets work on this motor? Not sure what direction I should do at the moment.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by greywurm

Alright, I am back. Thanks for the info gentlemen.

Did I make a bad assumption that the 5.0 bracket is the same as the 5.7 or do I have to do something to make the serpentine belt brackets work on this motor? Not sure what direction I should do at the moment.

Learning op. Don't think 5.0 (305) bracket if different than 5.7, but it seems some of the early heads have a different bolt pattern, probably short water pump era but I'm not sure. Googled it, and found this guy had the same problem with a 307, an early model engine.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/dril...bc-169071.html

I bought a 92 C1500 and the a/c had an annoying vibration every time the compressor engaged. I found the bolt in that location had been broken off. Drilled it out, installed a stud, now the vibration is gone. So, from my own experience, I'd say it needs fixed.

Saw one man's suggestion to drill it, and I'd modify that slightly to bolt up the bracket, use a drill bit that's as big as possible to just barely clear the hole in the bracket to drill just a little to ensure usable placement of hole, then remove bracket and 5/16" drill to a depth of just short of what the other holes have for depth or no deeper than you feel is necessary. Tap it out with a regular 3/8" tap and then use a 3/8" bottom tap. If you drill through to water jacket, not a real bad problem, just use a stud and put some high temp silicone on it after spraying threaded hole liberally with brakleen and the stud threads too. Looks like you got the studs that came with it?

http://www.boschtools.com/SiteCollec...ments/1666.pdf

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by greywurm

Alright, I am back. Thanks for the info gentlemen.
Did I make a bad assumption that the 5.0 bracket is the same as the 5.7 or do I have to do something to make the serpentine belt brackets work on this motor? Not sure what direction I should do at the moment.

OK, I think I have the skinny on it now. I feel bad that I did not know this before we sent you out there to get that set-up, but I think you can make it work. The GM performance parts set-up is obviously different if you click on the application section in the Summit listing, it fits 55-86, but we all know it really only fits 55-68 IF you have 69-86 heads.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na.../applications/

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by greywurm

Alright, I am back. Thanks for the info gentlemen.

Judging by where you made your sharpy mark, and compared to an old "thick casting" head I have in my garage, I'd say you can drill it about 5/8" without striking coolant.

However, looking at an older 305 head (perimeter valve cover style) thin casting, you would drill into the coolant passage for sure. But even if I had those, I'd still do it, I'd just drill/tap, then liberally JB weld the inside of the head and threads, then screw a grade 8 stud in there, wipe off the excess JB, then bolt the bracket on right away and just snug the nut and washer onto the stud to ensure straight alignment (JB can dry with it crooked due to thread clearance) then after 24 hours tighten it down to specs.

You probably have thick casting heads, you can tell by looking at the outer edge where the short head bolts go. On a thin casting head (top pic) it will have ridges to save on iron weight, and on a thick casting head, it will be a straight edge with one dip for the dipstick tube (bottom pic).

[greywurm]

Thanks for all the info. Processing it all in my head right now...

My head casting numbers look to read 3998993. I think they are thick heads by looking at the dip stick tube

I do think at the very least the lower hole was drilled and tapped. It looks to have gone through the outer wall into what I think is the coolant area. While I'm at the store I'm going to see if I can find some plugs to put in there.

A little nervous about drilling... It is pretty strait forward but I'd hate to screw it up! I'll muster up the courage eventually.

Stupid side question... Is it possible to swap the wheels on these water pumps (finger pointing to them)? I'd like to use the chrome one over the junk yard one but the holes for the pulley are too far out for the pulley.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by greywurm

Thanks for all the info. Processing it all in my head right now...

My head casting numbers look to read 3998993. I think they are thick heads by looking at the dip stick tube

I do think at the very least the lower hole was drilled and tapped. It looks to have gone through the outer wall into what I think is the coolant area. While I'm at the store I'm going to see if I can find some plugs to put in there.

A little nervous about drilling... It is pretty strait forward but I'd hate to screw it up! I'll muster up the courage eventually.

Stupid side question... Is it possible to swap the wheels on these water pumps (finger pointing to them)? I'd like to use the chrome one over the junk yard one but the holes for the pulley are too far out for the pulley.

Yes, the 993's are thick casting.

Looks like 2 holes in the picture in the red square are re-drilled. I'd get some allen screws or bolts or bolt stock, JB weld them in and grind flush.

Hey, you got at least one hole drilled all the way through already. What's one more? LOL You can fix it.

Only stupid question is the one you didn't ask.

You could re-drill the proper holes, but I don't think that pump will work. All automotive small block chevys turn clockwise, but don't forget, serpentine belt set-up takes a reverse rotation (counter clockwise) pump, fan and fan clutch due to the routing of the belt. I'm not sure that B&M is a reverse rotation pump, it has a boss for a v-belt power steering bracket on one side and bosses for v-belt smog pump on the other, and a v-belt alternator boss on the top. V-belt small block water pumps are standard rotation (clockwise).

[Lee H]

If all your missing is that one bolt just skip it. One other thing to keep in mind is that the bracket width between the years is different so you could end up with a misalignment of the pulleys.

[greywurm]

Originally Posted by Lee H

If all your missing is that one bolt just skip it. One other thing to keep in mind is that the bracket width between the years is different so you could end up with a misalignment of the pulleys.

Since I had both backets off I put them up side by side and compared everything. Both were identical, but I could have missed the upper bolt position.

As far as skipping it, I'd rather not. I don't have anywhere on the intake to put these support brackets on the back of the ac bracket. The longer one goes bolted back towards the carb and the shorter one runs over to the drive side. Already decided to skip those.

[greywurm]

Good points.

I picked up a number of items last night to finish off the motor. I am going to a game today but am off tomorrow so it will have to wait. I will update you guys then.

I am thinking of picking up some CLR and soaking the water pump overnight to clean it up inside and out. I got new gaskets... Good idea or is there a better solution to soak it in?

Thanks again for all the info and pointers. Especially mechanicalman. My first swap is going pretty well so far (I think).

[greywurm]

Oh, and I picked an e fan off of a crown vic while I was at the junk yard. I have a police interceptor and that thing NEVER gets hot. I plan on using that, so ditching the fan clutch. The shroud almost covers the entire radiator minus an inch. Waiting on the controller to get shipped and want to find some shorter studs for the water pump pulley.

[mechanicalman]

50.00$ shipped, ready to paint. New.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-SBC-35...607b8c&vxp=mtr

[greywurm]

Alright gentlemen, I said I would update you on where I wound up today and here it is...

Did not get nearly as much done as I thought I would. Had to run some errands and halfway through realized I needed longer bolts to mount the engine to the engine stand, so had to head out again.

With that said, the passenger side bracket is place! First attempt at drilling the new hole was near perfect. Perfect depth on the hole and didn't break through to the other side, so there was plenty of meat to drill out the hole.

I still need to seal the extra hole that a PO tapped out into the coolant resovoir - got some small Allen head screws to plug it but they aren't threaded correctly. I suppose I will have to buy a grinder and go the bolt route.

Check out the pics. You'll also see the awesome Chinese made tap from harbor freight that broke after first use. At least I was at the end of the hole!

And thanks a million mechanicalman!

[mechanicalman]

You might have purchased 1/4" pipe plug, you probably need 3/8" set screw. You could probably tap the hole out to 1/4" pipe plug just be careful if the hole is small enough, or go to a bigger pipe plug. JB whatever you put in there and good luck!

[profe56]

It is possible to see a picture of a serpentine set, but only alternator, water pump, and power stering?

[greywurm]

Got it fired up on sunday and ran it for a few seconds... no manifolds, so the sucker was loud and no water, so didn't run it for long.

Ready to pull the old l6 and get this thing where it belongs.

Odd thing to me was that the distributor wanted to put the #1 plug on the rear drivers side of the motor. Every diagram I pulled up put it pointing to the #1 cylinder. I tried rotating it, but there is a notch that only lets it drop in that way or 180 degrees around. Oh well... she runs.