Clouds of white coming out of one side of exhaust

[AirSpeed]

Drove my truck this morning and noticed clouds of white "smoke" coming out the drivers side exhaust, got an occasional whiff of antifreeze and my radiator was low on coolant. I'm assuming I have a bad head gasket, any way to verify?

[Sklptrljay]

Sorry to hear that, always a bummer when something like this happens. One simple thing to do is hold your hand at the exhaust tip and see if it smells like antifreeze or oil.
You can do a compression test on the coolant system. My mechanic showed me a compression test with a clear tube attached to the coolant system and it changed color if any air/exhaust bubbles got into the coolant.

[AirSpeed]

Just checked my oil and it looks a little milky, more like brown. I did smell antifreeze while it was running.

[Sklptrljay]

Yeah, doesn't sound good. Sorry bud.

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by Sklptrljay

Yeah, doesn't sound good. Sorry bud.

Thanks, I'll get it going again!

[imjeff]

Hate to say it, but the last time I replaced a head gasket for the exact problem you're having, it didn't fix the crack that was causing it. Tear the head off and carefully examine the gasket. If no issues the have the head checked. No sense doing much more testing. It's not only walking like a duck, it's quacking as well. Off with its head!

Jeff

[AirSpeed]

Yea, I'm thinking new engine, there's so much water in the oil and I had to drive it about ten miles to get home, i didn't hear any bad noise but I'm sure I started the process of ruining the bearings. Thinking back it's been stumbling in the mornings, I had to rev it a little to get it to smooth out so its probably been leaking coolant in the cylinder and oil for some time.
Anyone have a good recommendation for new 350s for a 72 Gmc?

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

Yea, I'm thinking new engine, there's so much water in the oil and I had to drive it about ten miles to get home, i didn't hear any bad noise but I'm sure I started the process of ruining the bearings. Thinking back it's been stumbling in the mornings, I had to rev it a little to get it to smooth out so its probably been leaking coolant in the cylinder and oil for some time.
Anyone have a good recommendation for new 350s for a 72 Gmc?

Check your local GMC or Chevy dealer for a GM Goodwrench 350. They are not too expensive [$1500 ~] and come with a warranty [something like] 3 years or 50000 miles.

[sgt1022]

I just bought a 290 hp GM performance long block from Jegs for about $2000. Runs great.

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by sgt1022

I just bought a 290 hp GM performance long block from Jegs for about $2000. Runs great.

Did they deliver to your house? How did you unload it, forklift, hoist?

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by sgt1022

I just bought a 290 hp GM performance long block from Jegs for about $2000. Runs great.

That's a great motor, plenty of power to tow a load or pass people with.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

Drove my truck this morning and noticed clouds of white "smoke" coming out the drivers side exhaust, got an occasional whiff of antifreeze and my radiator was low on coolant. I'm assuming I have a bad head gasket, any way to verify?

As a retired mechanic, I'd rebuild it, especially if it's matching numbers to the truck. As far as hiring someone else to do it, I'd have to have rock solid references.

Or this

http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...52506/10002/-1

Or this if you need a new balancer, intake, HEI. Comes with gaskets.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...d=#moreDetails

If you want more power, put an RV cam in it before you install it. I'd go smaller than the cam in the 350-290HP, IMO, .222int-.222ex duration @ .050" is too much for 8:1 compression and shorts you on torque.

I'd get something around .210-.220 duration @ .050" and 112 degree lobe centers and less than .450 lift, ought to be good for around 275HP and 350 ft/lbs of torque.

[imjeff]

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

as a retired mechanic, i'd rebuild it, especially if it's matching numbers to the truck. As far as hiring someone else to do it, i'd have to have rock solid references.

Or this

http://www.jegs.com/p/chevrolet-perf...52506/10002/-1

or this if you need a new balancer, intake, hei. Comes with gaskets.

http://www.jegs.com/i/chevrolet-perf...d=#moredetails

if you want more power, put an rv cam in it before you install it. I'd go smaller than the cam in the 350-290hp, imo, .222int-.222ex duration @ .050" is too much for 8:1 compression and shorts you on torque.

I'd get something around .210-.220 duration @ .050" and 112 degree lobe centers and less than .450 lift, ought to be good for around 275hp and 350 ft/lbs of torque.

x2!

[sgt1022]

No I had it delivered to my mechanic's shop. They would've delivered to my house though. The 290 hp is lower on torque (325 ft lbs)than the 260 hp version (350 ft lbs). But I wasn't changing the cam or anything. I made up some torque with my intake and exhaust.

[jeffahart]

Hey what's the warranty stipulations on those Jegs Goodwrench 350s. I heard you had to have them installed by certified mechanic to validate warranty.

[sgt1022]

I had mine installed by a mechanic cause I didn't have the time after working two jobs. The warrant was 3 yrs/100,000 mi.

[jeffahart]

I just answered my own question above: here's what's on Jegs site. Plus I just called and spoke with them. Basically your on your own to fight any warranty issues with no leg to stand on if I install myself. Guess they look for any reason not to honor warranty. Which is not a GM thing just a regular Corporate America thing.


Warranty coverage is based on months/mileage, whichever comes first, and begins on the date of
installation
by an authorized GM dealer or by a qualified Independent Service Center (ISC). For all other over-the-counter
sales, warranty begins on date of retail sale.

PS, sorry if I got off topic. But seems like you may be going this route if you get the news we all think when you pull heads.

[imjeff]

I would do a stockish ("RV" type cam) 350. It'll do everything you want, make good vacuum, run at elevation, etc

Jeff

[Xeen]

What ever you decide to do you need to do it soon, that engine isn't going to last very much longer in it's current condition.

[scotts72heavyhalf]

Well here`s what I did, I found a local machine shop Portland Or, that built me a 340hp 4 bolt main with speed pro-pistons and cam, double roller timing chain, high volume oil pump, numbers matching block and heads build sheet and 6 month warrenty for $1495 exchange had to add intake, new starter and misc but he installed the intake as well. Runs great, great oil pressure and very happy with the engine. Now that being said itonly has a 6 month warrenty but if something is wrong with a SBC its going to happen at break in. I would look around unless you want to keep it numbers matching find a good engine rebuilder or this guy might ship you one.

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by scotts72heavyhalf

Well here`s what I did, I found a local machine shop Portland Or, that built me a 340hp 4 bolt main with speed pro-pistons and cam, double roller timing chain, high volume oil pump, numbers matching block and heads build sheet and 6 month warrenty for $1495 exchange had to add intake, new starter and misc but he installed the intake as well. Runs great, great oil pressure and very happy with the engine. Now that being said itonly has a 6 month warrenty but if something is wrong with a SBC its going to happen at break in. I would look around unless you want to keep it numbers matching find a good engine rebuilder or this guy might ship you one.

Thought about getting mine rebuilt but I don't have time, plus I have no idea if my block is cracked, bad head or just a head gasket. I'd hate to waste time and money having a builder find issues, I'd rather just throw a new engine in and hopefully be done with it.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

Thought about getting mine rebuilt but I don't have time, plus I have no idea if my block is cracked, bad head or just a head gasket. I'd hate to waste time and money having a builder find issues, I'd rather just throw a new engine in and hopefully be done with it.

I think you should start speaking with local shops that rebuild and re-manufacture engines. Most do a great job for a good price with good warranties and a place to actually take the vehicle if something goes wrong. They will install very reasonably because it's all they do. And you can drive your truck out with pretty quick turnover.

I like the prices of the internet engines but there's something about an Amazon type purchase with an engine that I cannot get past. I like to look someone in the eye and shake a greasy calloused hand on a deal when it comes to something like this.

I've bought many engines this way. Bought one for my sons car last year after he spun a rod. Why do I buy from these types of shops in lieu of doing myself.

Because the last 6 or 7 engines I've bought have caught me at a bad time when I've not had the time to dicker with pulling a pack and gathering parts.

Example: The truck I have right not threw a rod and destroyed the engine back in the late 80s with about 70,000 miles. I was in my last year of college. I took it to a re-manufacture shop, I think I paid around $600-700 back then. They had 350s O' plenty back then! I drove out of the shop a couple days later. It was a life saver for me.

That same engine is in the truck three owners later. It has over 100,000K and it's tired, but it's been a good engine. And that shop is still there and they are the ones that did my sons engine last year.

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by scotts72heavyhalf

Well here`s what I did, I found a local machine shop Portland Or, that built me a 340hp 4 bolt main with speed pro-pistons and cam, double roller timing chain, high volume oil pump, numbers matching block and heads build sheet and 6 month warrenty for $1495 exchange had to add intake, new starter and misc but he installed the intake as well. Runs great, great oil pressure and very happy with the engine. Now that being said itonly has a 6 month warrenty but if something is wrong with a SBC its going to happen at break in. I would look around unless you want to keep it numbers matching find a good engine rebuilder or this guy might ship you one.

You never want to use a high volume pump on a sbc only high pressure pumps. Reason being a sbc already has a great oiling system and with a high volume pump you will suck the pan dry since it takes a lot longer for the oil to come back down in the pan.

[Lokin4AReason]

if it is getting rebuilt, make sure you use a oil that is meant for breaking in engine(s) and not the stuff you buy for a regular oil change ..

one of my friend(s) is getting an engine redone AGAIN because he didnt realize that =0/

[Xeen]

Yeah man just get a GM crate motor and be done with it, quick and easy, can't go wrong there.