just some ideas

[Robznob11]

It's probably Ben done but I was thinking . Why not take a long bed frame cut off 6" on the rear and install a short bed. Then mount the cab back 12" and extend the fenders and hood 12" to match. Better weight ratio and funny car look. Or you could extend the cab 12".and make the doors longer. Wonder what it would look like.

[cableguy0]

Its entirely too much work for little benefit. You can always cut the firewall and slide the engine back. Adding another foot to the front wont help much. The only real benefit is moving the engine itself back and closer to the rear for better weight transfer. A shortbed frame accomplishes the same thing without the ridiculous amounts of work.

[Robznob11]

Well that's what I ment after scooting the cab back scoot the engine back as well I have mineback 2.5 # and custom suspension set up and can still blow the drag radials off with 440 up

[cableguy0]

There are guys going well into the 9's with the stock truck arm setup. Proper springs and shocks make all the difference in the world.

[BR3W CITY]

rob my engine and setup are pretty similar to what I see in your sig, just in a year earlier body. My engine is actually about 1" forward, and with my 325/50/15 m/t's and a stock truck arm setup, I have a very difficult time breaking the wheels free.

The biggest difference I see is that a) I have steel wheels which help with traction but suck with rotating mass and b) I have 3:73's instead of 4:10's.

Just thought it was interesting.

[Super73]

Suspension, suspension, suspension.

I see you have a 4/6 drop.. How is this done?

What shocks do you have?

I have a 315/60/15 MT DR and it dead hooks my 418ci LS3 that makes 520rwhp with a 4,600 verter, 4.56's.. I am expecting to see some 1.3x 60's on the bottle next time out by simply tightening my front shocks..

2 clicks from full loose spun and went 1.57 on the bottle
4 clicks from full loose spuns less and went 1.43 on the bottle

I am thinking 2-3 from full tight (6-7 from full loose) should hold the 100 hit. Might need to go full tight for the 175..

My point is, don't blame the tire. If your suspension is too stiff and you don't have a shock to control it, you will not get it to work with pretty much any tire.

[Robznob11]

Lol. I did not throw these ideas out cause I had a problem. And when I said I could blow the tires off. It was a little stretched if they are hot they will hook fine. I probably should have put this on the suspension section. I was just thinking how well a truck could handle and hook if the engine were more centered. And how cool it would look if the fenders or cab were stretched. I mean the long frame is already stretched so the hard part is done. I just like seeing things out side the box. I'm not running fully adjustable shocks but I am running 2.5 spindles and the rest is springs and doshe tech drop shocks. And an antisquat kit with a 4* shim for the rear pinion . I know you can make these trucks hook good and in my opinion truck arms can't be beat. But if the engine was back more you would probably have a better all around truck assuming you four get equal weight on all 4 corners as opposed to the heavy nose of truck setup. In actuality I can light up the rears real good once then after I stop if I try to do it again I will easily push through the brakes. Sorry to toot y'alls horn just dreaming one day😁😝

[Super73]

Moving the battery from the front to the rear is said to be equal to moving the motor back 6"..

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by Super73

Moving the battery from the front to the rear is said to be equal to moving the motor back 6"..

Does it really? Damn, maybe I should add a second battery! lol

[djracer]

I hope to have my turd into the 7's with trailing Arms when she comes out of the paint shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!