My lifted '70 Gmc swb

[BlakeW]

Hey guys, this is my first time posting on this forum, so if I do something wrong just let me know.

My truck is a 1970 gmc half ton 4x4 swb with the 4 speed and a healthy 396 swapped in. It currently has a 6 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift with bald 33 inch tires. Could I take the body lift out and still clear 35 inch tires? And also, how rare is this truck? I wouldn't think a gmc short bed 4x4 would be very popular. Thanks!

[71swb4x4]

6" should be fine. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=546227

Post pictures of the truck!

[BlakeW]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

6" should be fine. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=546227

Post pictures of the truck!

http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/Bl...g.html?filters[user]=141638444&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0
Did that work?

[BlakeW]

I plan on painting it and going through the interior to pretty much make it look like new. And I can't figure out how to post pictures without the link getting screwed up like my previous post.

[john]

When you reply to a message, scroll down to manage attachments and post pic from your computer.

[BlakeW]

Thanks john. Here are a couple pics of it.

[71swb4x4]

Nice looking truck. Does it drive? I like your plan of pulling the body lift. Pull the lift and drive the wheels off it!

[BlakeW]

Thanks ��. And Yup, runs and drives perfect. The suspension is really stiff though. It has 7 leaves in the back and 5 in the front... I think I'm gonna take a leaf out of the front and 2 out of the back and try it out.

[71swb4x4]

Factory tow hooks too! What else does it have for options?

[BlakeW]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

Factory tow hooks too! What else does it have for options?

Not much haha. It's 4x4, 4 speed and bench seats. Doesn't have a tach and there's another little guage missing. It said it had some kind of blue interior trim but that's about it.

[BlakeW]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

Factory tow hooks too! What else does it have for options?

Not much haha. It's 4x4, 4 speed and bench seats. Doesn't have a tach and there's another little guage missing. It said it had some kind of blue interior trim but that's about it.

[BlakeW]

Here's a picture of the options list in the glove box

[67swb72klb]

welcome to the forum look like a good start!

[BlakeW]

Originally Posted by 67swb72klb

welcome to the forum look like a good start!

Thanks!

[BlakeW]

I went to order interior door panels and I notied there were better looking ones for 1972. Are they compatible with my 1970? And what other interior changes were there, if any, for the 1972 models?

[jerry moss]

Originally Posted by BlakeW

I went to order interior door panels and I notied there were better looking ones for 1972. Are they compatible with my 1970? And what other interior changes were there, if any, for the 1972 models?

the shafts on the window regulator and door handle are longer on 72s-i learned this the hard way when i put 72 panels on my first truck, it was a 69 swb 4x4. i had already drilled the holes for the plastic push pins so it was back to the wrecking yard for all the door guts out of a 72

[BlakeW]

Originally Posted by jerry moss

the shafts on the window regulator and door handle are longer on 72s-i learned this the hard way when i put 72 panels on my first truck, it was a 69 swb 4x4. i had already drilled the holes for the plastic push pins so it was back to the wrecking yard for all the door guts out of a 72

Oh man, that sounds like no fun. I ended up getting the whole interior kit for 67-71 from LMC with the door panels, arm rests, dash panel, seat cover and carpet. Plus I got the tachometer kit and a new gauge bezel for it.

[68350]

72 doors are different! The door panels use white push in clips to mount as opposed to the 4 screws on the bottom. Not compatible. Rearview mirror is on the windshield in a 72. There is a vent in the door jamb on 71-72 as well. Good looking short box! Before you take the body lift out, is it in the truck for clearance issues with the firewall and big block? I agree to take it out, just trying to help avoid some headache along the way.

[BlakeW]

Originally Posted by 68350

72 doors are different! The door panels use white push in clips to mount as opposed to the 4 screws on the bottom. Not compatible. Rearview mirror is on the windshield in a 72. There is a vent in the door jamb on 71-72 as well. Good looking short box! Before you take the body lift out, is it in the truck for clearance issues with the firewall and big block? I agree to take it out, just trying to help avoid some headache along the way.

Thanks for the info! And no, the previous owner liked the look of the 3 inch body lift. It has a 6 inch suspension lift also so clearance with the front axle is more than enough.

[BlakeW]

I ended up taking the body lift off and realized that the motor didn't fit right because the previous owner put the motor mounts in the I6 holes, not the holes set about 2 inches forward for the V8's. I quit on the project over the winter for snowmobiling and now I'm back at it again.

Should I reinstall the body lift with new bolts or move the drivetrain forward the extra 2 odd inches? I'm siding on the body lift and putting a 3 inch suspension lift in instead of the heavy duty 6" lift I have in now that rides pretty bad.

Here is the progress I've made in the past 2 days. Also, here's a bullet hole I found in the cab.

[swamp rat]

If i'm not mistaken ALL the 4X4's have the engine in the rear holes, probably to help with front driveline angle, there may be other reasons i'm not aware of but my 72 K20 is stock with the engine in the rear set of holes.

EDIT: Think about it, if you move the engine forward 2" then the T case and tranny has to follow, , the Cross member too, then you will need to shorten the front drive shaft and lengthen the rear as well....

[BlakeW]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

If i'm not mistaken ALL the 4X4's have the engine in the rear holes, probably to help with front driveline angle, there may be other reasons i'm not aware of but my 72 K20 is stock with the engine in the rear set of holes.

Hmmm, I didn't know that. Thanks for the info, I'll have to research a little more. I'll probably end up putting a body lift on and go with a smaller suspension lift anyway.

Response to your edit: Exactly, it would be a big pain in the 12 bolt (see what I did there? No? Alright lol), that's why the body lift is the best option here I think.

[Bladeboy1998]

Originally Posted by BlakeW

Hmmm, I didn't know that. Thanks for the info, I'll have to research a little more. I'll probably end up putting a body lift on and go with a smaller suspension lift anyway.

Response to your edit: Exactly, it would be a big pain in the 12 bolt (see what I did there? No? Alright lol), that's why the body lift is the best option here I think.

Ahhahah, I see what you did there

[john@thepier]

None of the 4x4's came with a big block, that is why you are having problems @ the firewall. The correct holes for the engine cross member are the rear holes in the frame. You could massage the firewall or modify it, to get that engine to fit with out the body lift. Moving the engine forward just makes these trucks to nose heavy in my opinion. I have never been a fan of body lifts either, puts a lot of stuff out of wack. Maybe just put a small block back in and relieve yourself of all the headaches. Good luck with your build.

[BlakeW]

Originally Posted by john@thepier

None of the 4x4's came with a big block, that is why you are having problems @ the firewall. The correct holes for the engine cross member are the rear holes in the frame. You could massage the firewall or modify it, to get that engine to fit with out the body lift. Moving the engine forward just makes these trucks to nose heavy in my opinion. I have never been a fan of body lifts either, puts a lot of stuff out of wack. Maybe just put a small block back in and relieve yourself of all the headaches. Good luck with your build.

Ahhh, makes sense. And I thought about it more, I really don't want to move the motor forward or put a body lift back on. I plan on massaging the firewall, hopefully that'll work. If it doesn't, I'll swap in a 383 stroker or something similar. Thanks man!