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Old 10-24-2014, 07:08 PM   #1
Mv7fd
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Initial start

I want to make sure oil comes up through my pushrods before I button everything back up what are the best ways to do this
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:56 PM   #2
geezer#99
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Re: Initial start

Prime it with a drill. Cut down an old dizzy or buy a priming tool.
http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/oil-pump-primer
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:12 PM   #3
Just call me Sean
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Re: Initial start

I usually disconnect the coil and crank the engine for a while.
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:45 PM   #4
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Re: Initial start

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Originally Posted by Just call me Sean View Post
I usually disconnect the coil and crank the engine for a while.
Do not do this.

Buy a priming tool as stated above or remove the gear from an old distributor and use that as your tool. The most important part of the store bought priming tool is that it has the middle bushing to complete the oil galley to the top end. Some cheap ones only have the top bushing and rod. You can only prime the bottom end without the middle bushing.

Use a 1/2" corded drill to run the tool. Battery power will not do it. And install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to check that your bearing clearances are as should be. Correct clearances should yield you well over 50 psi on a new build.

Remember the camshaft lobes have no direct oil feed. The get oiled by splash only so it is important to get those RPM's up right when you fire it. Those first 10 seconds are critical, unless you have a roller cam.
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:10 PM   #5
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Re: Initial start

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Do not do this.
No explanation, just don't do this? If assembled properly with lube and oil in the right places and the coil not firing so there aren't any loads placed on the bearings I don't see a problem.
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Fights begin, fingerprints are took, days is lost, bail is made, court dates are ignored, cycle is repeated.
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:35 PM   #6
Mv7fd
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Re: Initial start

I bought the tool. 30 bucks
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:56 PM   #7
Mv7fd
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Re: Initial start

Bought the tool ran it with a cordless drill saw oil on the driver side didn't see it much on the passenger side I assume that is ok
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:12 PM   #8
Mv7fd
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Re: Initial start

This isn't a complete rebuild either just new cam lifters push rods and rockers so is it as big of that oil isn't coming out of each push rod
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:30 AM   #9
Jake Wade
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Re: Initial start

You need to turn engine stopping every 90º until you make a couple revolutions. It takes a little while for oil to come up through all the pushrods.
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Old 10-26-2014, 06:54 PM   #10
Mv7fd
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Re: Initial start

started the truck last night. that was a little bit of a pain i had the rockers to tight so it didn't start at first and i had plug wires wrong on the distributor. after getting that all straighten out she fired off had to adjust the timing some wasn't bad i've had it out running around town today runs awesome i don't think i did to bad for my first time ever digging this far into a motor
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:40 PM   #11
geezer#99
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Re: Initial start

Did you run it for 20 minutes to break in the cam/lifters?
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:44 PM   #12
Mv7fd
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Re: Initial start

Yes I ran it for about an hour last night 30 mins a piece varying RPMS then did it again today 2 times for 10 minutes
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:31 PM   #13
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Re: Initial start

Put heat lamps on the oil pan for a few hours prior to a pre-prime. This will lower the viscosity of the oil.

Pumping that thin oil will be way easier and will also aid immensely in getting flow throughout the entire lube oil system.

For basically the same reasons, heat lamps should also be used if a cam break-in has to be conducted in an unheated garage - during periods of cold weather.
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Old 10-26-2014, 10:07 PM   #14
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Re: Initial start

Quote:
Originally Posted by chengny View Post
Put heat lamps on the oil pan for a few hours prior to a pre-prime. This will lower the viscosity of the oil.

Pumping that thin oil will be way easier and will also aid immensely in getting flow throughout the entire lube oil system.

For basically the same reasons, heat lamps should also be used if a cam break-in has to be conducted in an unheated garage - during periods of cold weather.
I'm going to be using one of these to do as you say and far more efficient than a heat lamp.

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