My new roller frame

[Jbm1956]

Well ive been messing with my lowered axle and lowered leafs for quite some time now. Well day before yesterday I was on craigslist (due to my daughter waking me up at the butt crack of dawn) lol. Well good thing she did I came across a 55-59 chevy frame with a camaro clip installed with new bushings a camaro rearend under it and an aluminum fuel tank. I know you guys aren't going to believe this but I got it for $500 bucks. Awesome deal I think. So my question is im all excited to get it going it has some nice paint on it now but the whole frame isnt painted. So I want to spray some fresh paint over it. Can I just get some paint and spray it or do I have to get rid of all the paint thats on it already. Im hoping spray some on it and then run my brake lines. Please point me in the right direction. Thanks guys

[mr48chev]

I don't think you need to get rid of all of the old paint as long as it isn't flaking off or otherwise messed up. You can probably sand it down as smooth as you want and prime and paint it and be good unless you want a show quality paint job on it and then you may need to go to some extra effort.

[Jbm1956]

It will be just a cruiser. Ill prob just use some Tractor supply paint on it and call it good. Do I have to primer it or can I just spray it

[Kim57]

That's a great deal.
Kim

[_Ogre]

you got a smokin' deal if everything is installed correctly
that gas tank would cost most of that money

check with some of the guys here that have running/driving trucks with camaro ifs to be sure everything is right
building your truck on a frame that doesn't ride right would be a shame
it is a lot easier to fix it now than later with your body on it

stock springs with the axle flipped on top, is the same as what i run.
you will need to c-notch the rear of the frame or it will sit on the bump stops all the time.
i would recommend a 5'' c-notch minimum, truk has 3.5'' and occasionally hits the bump stops
my truk axle is even with the bottom of the frame after i got all the weight of the body on it
i would also buy the same year camaro torque bar and bolt it on the rearend and make a support to the factory x-member
as is it looks like the pinion angle may be down. it may not be locked in at this point

i would also remove the trans x-member and fabricate one that will support the front cab supports
the stock x-member supported the front cab mounts, when that was cut out the front mounts can sag

i would also do any fabrication that you need down the road
underfloor master cylinder will require a bracket
58-59 frame is a bit longer up front than the 55-57 frames. not sure what frame it was based on
the stock camaro motor mounts will place the motor too low in the cavernous dog house
check to see if all the spring shackles and the center bolt have been replaced
box the frame

it wouldn't hurt to throw your cab and dog house on to check the fit and wheel placement
i don't see much in the way of a radiator core support
it would be easy to check your stock frame dimensions to fab up a core support


after all of that... then paint it, then run your brake and fuel lines

[Jbm1956]

Yea im hoping some respond that are running the camaro clip. Ill diff look int all that. I didn't know there was a tranny mount that assisted with the body mounts. I appreciate all that advice hope more will chime in. I dont know that much about this but im trying to learn.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Jbm1956

I didn't know there was a tranny mount that assisted with the body mounts.

this is longbike's stock 57 frame with the un-cut bellhousing x-member that supports the body mounts



aftermarket frame manufacturers support the body different ways



this is my x-member, some of my fabrication is a little industrial but i had this tubing on hand



as for using spray bombs? never had much use for them
usually the paint looks ok until first time it gets dirty/oily/wet
you would probably be money ahead to brush on rustoleum
spray bomb paint goes on so thin that it takes many cans to get any paint thickness
i brushed on por15 on my frame, 25,000 miles on it and it still looks good

[ChuckDriver]

x2 "brush on Rustoleum"!

[Jbm1956]

So you guys basically go to lowes or something and get rustoleum and a couple paint brushes and go to town or what. Any certain kind of rustoleum or anything. Is that the right way

[lowrodderchev]

so is this the official build page now? I would pressure washer her and rattle can it. like you said its going to be a driver and hopefully low enough no one will see under her skirt(body)

[Jbm1956]

I was thinking rattle can but not sure how it would look. I guess as long as the front clip looks good is all that matters cuz thats the only thing people will see when the hood is up. I will start a build soon.

[pvienneau]

Rattle can will look great. Just make sure you clean it first. Get rid of all the dirt and grease then paint.

[NEWFISHER]

POR 15 would be more durable on a frame than spray bomp. Rustolium quarts at the hardware store and a little hardner and sprayed would also look great and last.

[Iceburgh]

Killer deal. Tank would have been about $200+ , clip about $325 plus labor if you are new at this.
Rear also....you stole it

[buggy5872]

more pics are needed to see if it clip is on corrwect. Looks like the frame will need a notch for the rear end to have the correct amout of travel. Almost looks like the rear axle is almost touching the bump stops.

[_Ogre]

i brushed on por15 on my frame, 25,000 miles on it and it still looks good
google por15 if you want more info

[Jbm1956]

Heres more pics of the front clip. This has always been my biggest fear of wondering if the clip is installed correctluly when I bought a frame. This one looks good so all I can do is cross my fingers

[lowrodderchev]

Measure it yet?

[Jbm1956]

Nope not get. Just measure from center of hub to hub or whats the best

[Roadkill58]

Measure from a point (ball joint grease fittings) or some fixed point on each

side of the front a-arms to the center of the rear crossmember.

Should be within an 1/8".

You can check the wheelbase on both sides of the truck.

[lowrodderchev]

Originally Posted by Roadkill58

Measure from a point (ball joint grease fittings) or some fixed point on each

side of the front a-arms to the center of the rear crossmember.

Should be within an 1/8".

You can check the wheelbase on both sides of the truck.

What he said but really check the wheelbase theres a 57 in my parents neighborhood his clip is almost under the drivers seat looks like the cab I going to lean forward

[Jbm1956]

Ok well I may have a big problem of course cuz nothing can ever go right for me. I just got this frame and measured from hub to hub. 113 inches. I think from what ive read on the forum thats about 3 inches too short. The guy I bought the frame from said that the wheel sat centered in the wheel well so all I can do is wait until I get too that point I guess. Lowrodderchev has been helping me with pics and advice I appreciate that so much... whats your guys thoughts on that measurement of 113 inches. I know my alignment is not even close one wheel is straight and the other is kicked out some. Thanks for all the help guys

[lowrodderchev]

Still $500 worth of parts there....

agreed!!!

[Jbm1956]

Yea I agree with that. But I want to get this truck on he road lol. So hopefully its right

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by Jbm1956

Yea I agree with that. But I want to get this truck on he road lol. So hopefully its right

The only real way to find out if it right is to mount your cab front fenders and bed on it.
If it's not the right wheel base they may have the rear out of position or the front clip out of position and you wont know until it's together.
Kim