REALLY need help wiring in a CS-144 alternator

[1774btcrew]

Well, I had custom brackets made to install a 200 amp alternator and A/C compressor on my 4BT Cummins motor. I had a friend come by who is really good at wiring to help me sort it out. The thing is he is usually working on European stuff. This has the PLIS plug on it. I plan on running a tachometer. Wired it where the P is tachometer, L which is red going to the original red on my stock alternator, and the brown to the brown on the existing wiring. The alternator isn't showing any output. I get the information we used from Pirate4x4.com on the alternator page http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...art2/#csseries I know I still need a 50 ohm resistor put in but I am not even sure on the best place for it. I would REALLY appreciate any help possible ASAP as I am trying to get my truck completely mobile by Friday so can actually take it to the c10 show at Dino's. I have been the last 2 years and something has always been an issue that I couldn't drive my truck.

[mattybilt79]

Get the plug adapter from parts store just got one for my 85 running a cs alternator. If your dash has a volt guage it should be an ac delco 8078 if you have a dummy light its an 8077, personally went to oreilly auto parts gave them delco part number and it crossed over to a bwd part number and got it the same day for like 14 bucks and works great.

[1774btcrew]

I actually got a plug when I bought the alternator. It is wiring it in that is the issue

[gmachinz]

The resistor solders inline (series) on that brown wire lead. Are you positive you are getting +12V (actually 14V+ running) with the engine running?

[1774btcrew]

It isn't showing any voltage at all running. This is why I don't think it is wired correctly

[gmachinz]

If you have the alternator wired as the diagram shows, did you verify you are getting 14V+ on your exciter wire from the truck? If you aren't, something is wrong in your wiring. If it is and the alternator shows no output, something is wrong with the alternator. So first verify supply voltage to I terminal, then verify voltage output.

[1774btcrew]

which is the exciter wire from the truck? The brown one?

[Paul83]

The brown one was the one on mine, but use a tester. It should only have power when the key is on.

[gmachinz]

Yes....on its own, that wire should have 12V on it with the key in the "on" position. If not, just try using a jumper wire from the "I" alt terminal to the battery and measure output alt. voltage-you may need to run the remote sense wire to the battery too just for testing purposes. Now start the engine and verify you have over 14V coming out of the alternator. If you do, go through your existing wiring by tracing the brown lead. If you don't, then that alternator has an issue. It can be tested at a parts store just like any other CS type alternator.

[1774btcrew]

Thanks, I will do some more checking in the morning when it is light.

[mattybilt79]

You said you bought a resistor but had not wired it in yet? As far as I know without the resistor inline it will not charge at all and from what I have read will damage the alternator. The adapter plug I got has the resistor about an inch from the plug coming off the apt. I swapped an 87 motor in my 85 and that was all it took to get it to charge. Make sure your running an 8 guage wire minimum from the post on the alt directly to the pos side of your battery.

[mattybilt79]

Sorry went and looked at the pigtail again the resistor is about 5 inches away and the total length plug to plug is about 10 inches.

[1774btcrew]

Thanks for the picture. Where did you get your adapter plug?

[mattybilt79]

Got mine at O'Reilly auto parts, gave them the ac delco part number and it cross referenced to a bwd number that they carry. Auto zone had a cross ref number for it too.

[1774btcrew]

Originally Posted by mattybilt79

Got mine at O'Reilly auto parts, gave them the ac delco part number and it cross referenced to a bwd number that they carry. Auto zone had a cross ref number for it too.

Where in AZ are you?

[1774btcrew]

Still can't get this sorted. I went and had the alternator tested and it passed. It shouldn't be an issue with the existing wiring as the previous stock alternator always worked with no issues.

[Just call me Sean]

On some vehicles if the charge bulb is blown the alternator won't charge. Voltage for the brown wire passes through it.

[1774btcrew]

Originally Posted by Just call me Sean

On some vehicles if the charge bulb is blown the alternator won't charge. Voltage for the brown wire passes through it.

Thanks for everyone's input/help. Worked a big part of the day on it to no avail. Had some other no related wiring that needed soldered in and cleaned up. Hopefully tomorrow is a better day!

[hatzie]

Did you get an adapter with a plug and socket??? Or are you trying to roll your own with a pigtail that has one plug?

[1774btcrew]

I did my own since I wanted a tachometer. I used a 5W 47 Ohm resistor soldered into the L wire.

[hatzie]

Assuming this is the 1977... Download the 1977 wiring diagram from the RTFM link in my signature.

The SI alternator has 2 terminals on the plug.

• Terminal 1 Brown wire {16BRN 25(SXL)} is the Field Exciter wire from the ignition switch through a resistance wire or the warning lamp.
• Terminal 2 Red wire {12RED 2G(SXL)} is the remote sense wire that goes back to a fusible link at the firewall J stud. The starter on 80's models.

Do you have a CS130 with a P L I S marked socket or P L F S ?

If you have a P L I S socket on your CS130 alternator...

• Terminal "S" is the remote sense connection. This should hook to Terminal 2 {12RED 2G(SXL)} from the Delco SI plug.
• Terminal "I" is the Field Exciter connection. Terminal "I" has an internal resistor. This should hook directly to Terminal 1 {16BRN 25(SXL)} from the Delco SI plug.

If you have a P L F S socket on your CS130 alternator...

• Terminal "S" is the remote sense connection. This should hook to Terminal 2 {12RED 2G(SXL)} from the Delco SI plug.
• Terminal "L" is the Field Exciter and warning lamp connection. This should hook through a resistor to Terminal 1 {16BRN 25(SXL)} from the Delco SI plug.

[1774btcrew]

So the current situation is, I have found the problem. The brown and white wire(exciter) was broken right at the ignition switch. I decided I would cut the wire and solder it back together. I had initially planned on just running a new wire. There was plenty of brown wire to just pull up. Silver solder wouldn't even stick so against my better judgement, I just crimped the wire and so far everything is working.

[gmachinz]

Good to hear Jeff! I figured if you had it charging by jumpering it, then it had to be between the alt and dash-good job tracking it down.

[1774btcrew]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

Good to hear Jeff! I figured if you had it charging by jumpering it, then it had to be between the alt and dash-good job tracking it down.

Thanks! It is a relief for sure! Just ridiculous that the wire was broken. I hadn't even been working under the dash at all. It seems the brake pedal was grabbing it and it was just a coincidence that it happened at the same time as I was putting a new alternator in. I just have to get the tachometer to work with the diesel now!

[gmachinz]

Hey BTW, sorry if you tried calling the other day-I was in BFE Iowa picking up a couple rust free boxes and had no signal all damn day.....I got within range and my phone went crazy with missed calls and messages! Lol