Rico F. - 1954 3600 Long bed S10/LS conversion

[skymangs]

This truck is a '54 long bed, it's been in Rico's family since his earliest memories as a kid. Goals for this truck are LS based 5.3/4L60E drivetrain, Wide Whites/Artillery wheels, Custom interior, Vintage Air, and of course keeping the beautiful Patina intact. The donor S10 is a 94 extended cab, si we can keep the long bed. Here's what I started with.

[skymangs]

I started the project by disassembling the S10 beforehand. Saving the pieces needed for the swap. Next I cleaned the frame rails with Muriatic acid to kill the factory wax coating, built my cab stands, and tacked them in place.

[skymangs]

Next I disassembled the 54, and trial fit the cab. Once I was confident in the cab placement, I went ahead and burned the mounts in.

[skymangs]

Then the cab/frame were power washed to prep for the engine install. A complete take out driveline was purchased for this project. 2002 drive by wire 5.3L, 4L60E, stock harness, PCM, TAC module, and electronic throttle pedal.

The driveline was split, and adaptor plates were made to adapt the 5.3 to the 71 Camaro motor mounts. The engine was also deep cleaned, and prepped for paint.

[skymangs]

Then the hooker cast headers were mocked up, and the driveline placement settled on. This engine needed to be mounted rather high, to clear the low mount factory Denso Compressor that came with the engine.

[skymangs]

Once the driveline was mocked up, templates were made for the motor mount pedistals, and then cut from 3/16 steel and tacked into place. The cab was then removed to allow easy access to the transmission tailshaft area. The factory crossmember was cut/narrowed and re-welded to accommodate the new driveline position. Once everything was in place and tacked, the driveline was removed to seam weld the motor mounts and transmission mount.

[RCbowtie69]

Nice work & looking good.Keep up the good work & keeping these trucks on the road.Keep on Truckin"

[Uncle Jimi]

Skymangs, this truck turned out incredible!

I'm wondering about the remote power door locks??? Who do you suggest to get them from? Are the cheap kit's on amazon ok? Or go with something from speedway?

Thanks!!

[skymangs]

Thanks all. The owner is VERY happy with the truck. It's been in his family as long as he can remember.

Redline cleaned the old gauge face and bezel, but we wanted to keep it matching the other side, so they left the patina. Was damned expensive though.

I buy door lock motors and the remote from ebay. Inexpensive kits work just as well as the high dollar stuff. I think I had $60 in the power locks on this truck.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Thanks all. The owner is VERY happy with the truck. It's been in his family as long as he can remember.

Redline cleaned the old gauge face and bezel, but we wanted to keep it matching the other side, so they left the patina. Was damned expensive though.

I buy door lock motors and the remote from ebay. Inexpensive kits work just as well as the high dollar stuff. I think I had $60 in the power locks on this truck.

Thanks Skymangs...appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience.

[chuckmc8]

Very Nice. I like the battery location also

[tlorber]

Sarge,
Do you have any close up pics of where the wiring harness enters the firewall on this build, and also, any pics of the PCM/TAC module mounted in the interior?

I'm trying to figure out which holes to weld up in the firewall and which to keep.
Much appreciated.

[skymangs]

Thanks guys. Post number 40 and 51 show where the engine harness enters the firewall. The PCM is mounted across the dash support rods behind the speedo and the TAC module is mounted about 6" above the throttle pedal on the firewall brace (sorry, no pics). I really enjoyed this build. Check out my new one "Cecil". Going back a couple decades with a TPI motor.

[skymangs]

I weld them all, except the steering column and the left side wiring harness hole.

[tlorber]

Thank you for the response. Very helpful.
By the way, on that harness, did you use the original junction blocks, or did you simplify them to smaller blocks?

[gregg pellicer]

Skymangs can you explain the process you used to color match the tailgate to rest of truck. It look's great.
Gregg

[HULK64]

I have tried to find it but haven't seen it. What size wheels and tires are those?

[skymangs]

Tlorber; all the junction blocks get removed when I re-work a harness. The stand alone. Fuse block is the only junction made. I delete all the un-necessary pins from the PCM plugs as well.

Gregg; color matching is always a challenge. I start beet sanding the area with 220, (so the new paint will stick). Then I spray a contrasting base coat (in this case beige). Then I try to match the existing color on the truck. While the paint is still wet, use a wire brush, 80 grit DA Sander, screw driver, steel wool, etc. To scuff, scar, damage the top and second coats of paint. Once that is dry, I use a carbide burr to create "rusty areas" of shiny steel. Then sand in 400 grit wet to remove the shine and age the paint. Feel free to use a propane touch to darken ares, but be careful on large flat surfaces, the heat will warp sheet metal.
Once this has dried, use 16oz of hydrogen peroxide, 2oz of white vinegar, and 1/2 TBSP of salt mixed into a spray bottle to mist the bare metal. It will start rusting immediately. Let that dry, then repeat. The more times you spray, the darker the rust gets. Then use pentrol to seal you new rust.

Patina is really like art, just play with it till you like it!

Hulk64; wheels are from "Wheel Vintiques". 15x7 up front and 15x8 rears. Tires are 235/60R15 and 255/60R15

[gregg pellicer]

Skymangs what penetrol product do you use?I looked online and they make several products. Thank's for responding.
Gregg

[HULK64]

Thanks for the tire/wheel sizes. DId you end up using spacers?

[oossuuu754]

Go to this link on my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...7&postcount=19 there is a pic of the pentrol container. You can get this at any Lowes. If you want you can read thru the sections and see how I aged the paint on Cecil.

[skymangs]

Thanks for catcing that one Shawn.

Hulk, I did use spacers. The rear end is a 4x4, 1.5" spacers on the rear and 2" on the front.

[HULK64]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Thanks for catcing that one Shawn.

Hulk, I did use spacers. The rear end is a 4x4, 1.5" spacers on the rear and 2" on the front.

Perfect- thanks!

Sorry, last question and I will leave you alone! What was the backspacing you used?

[skymangs]

Cant recall backspace, they were standard "vintiques" 15x7 and 15x8's though.

[b-mac]

Skymangs,
Thank you for all of you knowledge and wisdom. I have read many of your posts and they have helped my tremendously.
My question is about how you prep the frame of these trucks for paint. I'm aware of the GM wax, and I know you use muriatic acid on the cab mount areas, but how do you prep the rest of the frame for paint? And then what paint do you use?
I notice you painted the stock gas tank on this truck.
Same method as the frame?