Canceling emergency flashers

[mr914]

Hi I'm Keith, I'm new here... I normally play/restore old Porsches as a hobby...

My GF has a 70 C10, 6cyl, 2wd, 4speed, trailing arms that she has owned for darn near 30 years. "Old Gold" the farm truck

So far, with the help of this board and a couple of YouTube videos...

I've fixed and upgraded the following

Replaced, so far...
Window regulators with new seals
Replaced headlight switch and new bulbs in the dash
Reworked all external lights
Fixed ground issues
Rebuilt heater control levers and switches
Pulled heater box and found a coffee can full of leaves and crud
Replaced exhaust from tail pipe to manifold
Replaced manual steering box. BTW advance auto parts was cheaper by almost $100
Shocks on all 4 corners

I have a few issues...

My first problem is, with canceling emergency flashers.
I've searched this board and the web, and I can't find the solution...

Started off as, while having a neighbor help me check lights, he pushed the emergency flasher switch in and we could not cancel it, pulled hard enough out to break the red post off... Went to the local FLAPS and bought a new turn signal switch, pain in butt to replace, and still can't cancel the emergency flashers. Pushes in easily, but still won't cancel. With the steering wheel off, there is a tab that I can push that will easily cancel the flashers...

I must be missing something. I need help with this one. The upper column bearing has about 1/8" play and I have the rubber grommet that goes around the horn wiper clocked to match the offset for the e-flasher detent.

Your advise is appreciated

Other issues to correct....

Dome light, the bulb is good. How does it get turned on and how is the wiring routed?

When replacing the rear shocks, one side, the fork at the rear of the trailing arm has widened, allowing the rear end to move a couple of inches. Is the solution to put a thru bolt in and draw the two sides together or to weld a couple of stops in to keep the diff/shock plate from moving?

Other projects planned.
Headlight relays, my thanks to whomever shared the info about the late 80's early 90's relay pack.
Replace rear main seal on engine. Easier to pull engine ot trans for this?
Replace bushings in trans linkage

My thanks in advance

[mr914]

Truck photo

[mr914]

Engine view

[mr914]

Interior

[mr914]

Me and my other 1970 protect.

A factory 6 cylinder

[mr914]

Other side

[michael bustamante]

Old gold. I like that
Itd be easier to pull the straight six i think. While its out you could reseal oil pan and such alot easier.
Pics of the rearend issue would help out a bunch
The light should turn on jist by turning the switch clockwise. The wiring runs along the driver side cab area under the sill plate parralel with the tank wiring.
Do you have pics of the hazard switch also?

[mr914]

Photo per request

[tcrist]

On my 70 GMC the hazard switch just PULLS back out to cancel. It is a bit harder to pull than it is to push, but that is how it works.

[hamjet]

That hazzard button doesn't look like mine. is the collumn from a later model truck or is that the wrong hazzard button...

[Kennuck]

Looks the same as the Hazard button on my 70, push in on the inner knob pull out on the outer ring. If that doesn't work for you must be something wrong inside.

[mr914]

Kennuck, you are correct, there is a problem in the steering column, like a missing part or something.

It's not the switch itself

The NEW turn signal switch acts the same way as the old turn signal switch. Even went to two different FLAPS and checked two different manufacturers.

The switches act the same way, easily push the flasher button in. Up to 15-20 pounds of pull on the button won't cancel it. But if you actuate the little tab on the inside of the switch, it pops right out with no effort and cancels the emergency flasher

[mr914]

Original 3 on tree column.

Button is what came in the package with the new switch.

[mr914]

I found this thread on this board as well as this image

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=2118640

The only difference that I find is that the canceling cam has a rubber ring with a detent around the back of it

[davepl]

Before switching to tilt (silver hazard button) I had the red normal one on my '70 and it was push in, pull out. Someone above says you can reset it by pulling it out again, but I've never tried that (cool if true, always learn something new). So they likely work both ways.

[tcrist]

Are we talking about the auto canceling on the turn indicators or manual canceling the emergency flashers?

Can the emergency flasher button be pulled out at all once it is pushed in?

Is the emergency button a two piece unit where you have to press in on the middle button in order to release the outer button to turn them off?

[mr914]

No it won't pull out manually

Yes it is the two button style

Never heard of auto cancel

Tried 15-320 pounds of force

Neighbors 69 pulls out with minimal force

[tcrist]

Does the neighbors 69 have the same type/looking hazard switch?

Did you try turning the button at the same time as pulling it out?

If you have tried all of this, then you just might need a new hazard switch?

The auto cancel that I mentioned was for the turn signals.

Does anyone have an original manual that shows the operation of the hazard switch that looks the same as this one?

[Sklptrljay]

I can't help you with the emergency lights, never had to deal with that. The dome light turns on by turning the headlight switch counterclockwise. Turning it clockwise dims the dash lights. If you look at the fuse block you'll see a set of orange and white wires going into the rocker panel area, they then go up the rear pillar to the dome light. As far as the rear trailing arm, I would definitely weld that and not rely on a bolt just by itself.

[mr914]

Hazard switch is part of the turn signal switch, so it is new

No turning the button makes no difference. It's just a sleeve and a collar

Neighbors is same style as te original, with the red pull tab

[tcrist]

The one in the last picture is the NEW one that you installed?

I do know that the one in mine is the red pull tab and it does take a lot to pull it back out to cancel the hazard flashers. Hope you figure it out soon.

[mr914]

Yes the photo is of the turn signal switch with flasher switch

The old one had 35+ years of wd-40/3 in one sprayed in and years of collecting dust that turned into goo.

New switch was made by Borg Warner aftermarket division. Located tech support number for them. Will give them a call tomorrow

[Kennuck]

Here is a pic of mine if it helps you.

[mr914]

Found the solution

Called the FLAPS tech support line

The had a TSB on the switch that stated, that the first canceling of the switch requires significant force (40-50 pounds) to cancel and will get easier with 4-5 actuation/cancel cycles.

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions

[Harley03joe]

Originally Posted by mr914

Found the solution

Called the FLAPS tech support line

The had a TSB on the switch that stated, that the first canceling of the switch requires significant force (40-50 pounds) to cancel and will get easier with 4-5 actuation/cancel cycles.

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions

So Sorry I'm Late On This Mater
But You Say FLAPS tech Support Line ?
What Is That ? Do You Have A Web Sight For Them Or Phone Number ?
Because I'm Having The Same Problem

Thank You For Your Help In This Matter
Harley03joe