Door gap at windshield frame issue

[EricSean]

So I bought my first Blazer. Had a 70 pickup back in the day. I got a 72 blazer from Arizona so I bought it just from pictures. It has doors from a pickup that were cut down for the top but the gap between the windshield frame and the vent windows on both gets wider towards the top. The top fits great so I dont think the windshield frame is bent forward. I don't want to buy new doors till I know what the issue is. Has anyone seen this before? Could it be the wrong year doors? Any help would be appreciated.

[29od1]

How's the door gap at the B pillar and rocker? I doubt it's the door itself.

You will probably need to shim either the body mount at the A pillar or B pillar to correct this. If the door fits correctly at the B pillar, then the cowl is angled too far forward and the body mounts are the issue.

[EricSean]

Thanks. I didn't think about the body mounts. They do need to be replaced but the rest of the door gaps are goor and the top fists right. I know it wouldn't taks much to fix that gap but do you think the top will still fit right after angling the firewall back?

[DeadheadNM]

Welcome from Montana! Are the rocker boxes in place? Would be great to see more pics of your K5 when poss. Pete

[EricSean]

I will look at the boxes tomorrow. Here is a pic of it. I have a single wall top for it because the one in the picture is a double but the blazer is set up for the single. It needs more work than I thought but there is no rust in the body so it's a good start.

[EricSean]

Here is another

[DeadheadNM]

Looks great! One day I'd like to have a 2wd K5.

[Tom Vogel]

I am going to guess that the door was replaced during a repaint. A good body man can fix it. Welcome to the world of convertibles. lol

[Rocketman72]

Take out the wing window assembly and bend the door frame to match the windshield post. Then re-install the wing window.

[cleszkie]

Originally Posted by Rocketman72

Take out the wing window assembly and bend the door frame to match the windshield post. Then re-install the wing window.

Interesting suggestion. But I think you might run into problems with making the window glass channel too loose at the top and too tight at the bottom by pivoting the front glass channel like that. But I've never done this, so who know, it might be the ticket.

[BIG ORANGE]

Originally Posted by Rocketman72

Take out the wing window assembly and bend the door frame to match the windshield post. Then re-install the wing window.

I totally agree, window frame looks bent downward,,,,,,,
jmo

[EricSean]

I am going to try the body mounts first. They do need to be replaced and with the wide gap at the back of the door and other issues this sounds the most correct way to resolve this. But still open for other options just in case this doesn't work. I will keep you all posted.

[Rocketman72]

Originally Posted by EricSean

I am going to try the body mounts first. They do need to be replaced and with the wide gap at the back of the door and other issues this sounds the most correct way to resolve this. But still open for other options just in case this doesn't work. I will keep you all posted.

When you do the body mounts be prepared to re-align everything except maybe the tailgate. You will be needing to take the front fenders off to get at the hinge bolts to the A pillar so, you might as well tear it down for your restoration project when you do the body mounts.

Interesting suggestion. But I think you might run into problems with making the window glass channel too loose at the top and too tight at the bottom by pivoting the front glass channel like that. But I've never done this, so who know, it might be the ticket.

I'm guessing that someone used the upper door frame one too many times to pull themselves up into the cab, especially with the window rolled down. Once the door frame and upper vent glass frame is back into position on top, it will likely allow the window glass to move up more easily.

I just finished doing my entire body restoration which included reassemble of the doors and glasses.

I have about 20 years of experience as an auto body tech. but, I could be wrong. Don't over think these older rigs, they were not rocket science like today's cars.

[EricSean]

This is staying a running and driving project and will not be a full restoration. I tried that with my 70 pickup years ago and it never went back together. I do want to pick the color and cut to door jams and firewall etc in then put it back together till I do the full paint job.

[Rocketman72]

Originally Posted by EricSean

This is staying a running and driving project and will not be a full restoration. I tried that with my 70 pickup years ago and it never went back together. I do want to pick the color and cut to door jams and firewall etc in then put it back together till I do the full paint job.

In that case maybe it's a good time to pull the fenders and doors to get that done and while your at it, replace those body mounts. A lot of gaps in the doors and front end are going to change when you put in the new mounts.

You can move the doors in and out but to move forward or back you have to pull the fenders. From what I can see, you have about as good of gaps as this car has ever had and if you want them perfect you better plan on doing some custom fitting of the hinges and especially the cowl plenum panel where it meets the upper door. I promise you, these things were not perfect from the factory. I was a body repair man back in those days.

I still think you're going to find that window frame bent a little. So, like I said, if you pull the vent window assy out, straighten the door frame to match the pillar and put it back, tightening the vent screws from the top at the door frame and work your way down, you'll solve the problem in your original post.

The larger gap at the rear of the door is perhaps a good thing, when you remove the top it will have a tendency to close that gap a bit. These older cars and trucks had terrible gaps from the factory. Today's cars, you could measure the gaps with a micrometer and find them pretty darn close. Not so in days of old.

Good luck with your project.

[EricSean]

I agree but I know the body mounts are shot so that's why I am starting there then I can fine tune it from there. But right now the the gap the way it is at the vent window it doesn't even touch the rubber.

[Rocketman72]

Originally Posted by EricSean

I agree but I know the body mounts are shot so that's why I am starting there then I can fine tune it from there. But right now the the gap the way it is at the vent window it doesn't even touch the rubber.

In the auto collision repair business we have a saying... jokingly, but somewhat accurate, "we pound it to fit and paint it to match." This is why we don't usually allow our customers watch us repair their cars. We bend and move things where they need to be in order to fit and function.

I did my body mounts and it worked out fine but, I had to re-adjust everything when I was done. Just to give you a heads up, make sure you get the body straight on the frame, side to side, before tightening the body mounts. Otherwise you'll have a tough of a time aligning the hood and the entire front sheet metal group.

Also, you can buy new carriage bolts for the swap at any good hardware store for a lot less than you can get them from the usual auto parts suppliers. The rear for the bed portion are pretty standard 5/16 bolts in 6" to 12" lengths and everything in between. They can be bought in any length you want and then you can cut off to the size you need or you can cut the tailings off with a sawzall after the install. Most of them are easy to get to.

You are going to encounter some that are rusted so bad that you have no choice but to replace them. You have to grind away the tack welds on them to get them out of the bed. The front ones (seats forward) are larger and can possibly be re-used, and I would if possible. I did put new bolts in the very front radiator support because they were not welded and easy to get to.

[doo142]

Fact assem. Manual

[EricSean]

What Manual is that. Is it in the regular 1972 manual? Or is there one just for the blazer?

[doo142]

Factory assembly manual,very informative, no table of content or index so it's a process of searching to find things, it is our truck " bible"

[EricSean]

Cool. I have one for my 70 I had. I just need to get one for a 72.

[Chulisohombre]

Pretty cool doo142. My door gaps suck as well. But I'll live with them. Mine is in No way as prestige as some of yours. I've beat the hell outa mine over the years. And it was before I got it as well. It'll never be fully restored but I make it look ok for Sunday cruises.

[72gmcshorty]

in the first picture it looks like your vent window is sagging into the door...maybe another pic needed?

[mtully79]

Originally Posted by 72gmcshorty

in the first picture it looks like your vent window is sagging into the door...maybe another pic needed?

Good eye, from that angle I agree it is sloping down towards the door