Driveshaft

[vancelot69]

Where can I buy a rear driveshaft? Looking on AutoZone, LMC and RockAuto I only see front driveshafts.

Or, is this fixable? The yoke is out of round and I can't press the old u-joint out. I bent my C-clamp trying.

The first one is the one that is out of round, the second one might be out of round too, but I wasn't sure, so I added it as a comparison point.

[1rippen6]

Try a WTB ad on the for sale forum

[landy]

Try a shop that does differentials, axles, driveshafts, u-joints, etc. They can repair or make a new one.

[grillzy]

rebuildable at a drive line shop

[Mike C]

Most likely more than just that is whacked.

I had a new one made with a double cardan CV for the rear of my Jimmy. Good way to go if you have a lift. Mine was made by 6 States Distributors? I think Tom Woods used to work there maybe? He's who I would go to now probably.

I had a shaft made for the Nissan T5 in my 240z with 1310 U-joint on the diff end by a company named Wenco in California and was very happy with them as well. Would not hesitate to buy from them either.

[vancelot69]

Couple things:

Since I took the rear shaft out, so my truck wouldn't roll away, I engaged the front hubs and put the transfer case in 4-Hi. Since then, I have driven it a handful of times and I am VERY impressed with how it handles in "front" wheel drive mode. It's as smooth as glass, even when I have the wheel cranked going around a corner, it's not all herky-jerky like I've felt in some 4x4 trucks I've owned. Of course, after thinking about it for a minute, that could be because I don't have the rear wheels pushing against where the front wheels are trying to pull it to...

Second, I took it to Ft. Worth Gear & Axle off E. Long Ave. They said they can't just re-round the yoke hole, so the whole slip joint had to be replaced. For $65, and $15 per u-joint to install the ones I had. I was more than happy to have it done for that price. While I was there, I asked about converting it to a double cardan or CV or whatever, and he said it would probably be close to $300 to do that. So, since a new FRONT drive shaft is about $300, I figure that's probably a pretty good price to get the rear one done. But I can't afford that right now, so just getting the new slip joint is fine for now. Plus, the guy at the shop said that if it wasn't wobbling (until the u-joint broke), then it should be fine as-is and I shouldn't need a CV on the rear.

[vancelot69]

New slip joint / yoke. They also painted the old tube.

[Chulisohombre]

That's a good price. Looks like they did a good job. Main thing is that the checked the ballence on the shaft. That way at speed you don't get vibration. But if it didn't break or have a problem before, you should be good.

[vancelot69]

Originally Posted by Chulisohombre

That's a good price. Looks like they did a good job. Main thing is that the checked the ballence on the shaft. That way at speed you don't get vibration. But if it didn't break or have a problem before, you should be good.

Yeah, they might have balanced it, but I didn't see any weights on it.

When I was going to put it back in, I got out the Chilton or Haynes that I have and noticed that it said to mark the relation of the driveshaft to yoke during removal, which I didn't do, on either end. On the slip joint side, no big deal since that part is new. I took it out for a drive yesterday evening after I got it put on, only got up to about 40-45, but it felt fine!

[Chulisohombre]

With new joints you should be fine.