Cutting Bed for Laying Frame.......Question

[C10agent]

I am seriously considering a extreme notch in the rear to lay frame. I was planning on a c notch but the bed is off and I know I will be regretting not going lower. I have found that the bed has to be welded/raised to have everything fit. Since I don't weld, I found folks cut the center section out of a bed and remove the wheel humps to make it fit.

Question - can I cut the center section out, remove the wheel humps and then HAVE two metal subframe made to bolt onto the two remaining bed sections and put wood on top to hide it?? Has anyone done this or heard of it?? Any advice and pictures would be seriously appreciated.

[aggie91]

Yes, that could be done. I have seen many ways to "hide" the large notch coming up thru the floor. I know how I would do it along the lines of what you describe, but it would be ard to describe in words on here...and I don't have pictures of how I would do it...

[tinydb84]

You can raise the bed floor without much (any?) welding. Look at SCOTI's dually build or "Parked Indefinite" I think is the other build thread with a raised bed that isn't welded.

You can have a notch cover out of steel welded on by any body shop. You could do most of the fitment and have them burn it in if you are trying to save money.

[C10agent]

Thanks guys for the advice and the reference to the build threads. That is huge!!! Excited to go through them and do some more research. It really isn't about the money as much as I have never welded before and I don't want to just send it off to have the bed raised. I think it will work with what I am thinking but I will have to see. If you think of anymore examples, let me know.

[dec010974]

hello c10agent. what I have seen is that some c10 enthusiast disassemble the bed completely, and add bed floor lift blocks to raise the original be floor. I may keep the original floor intact an build a cover to hide the air bag equipment and bridge. thif is from a someone elses build.

[dec010974]

hello c10agent. pm me your number so I can call you direct. here are some pic I stole from another build on this site. they raised the bed floor. I'm gonna add a frame to cover my existing bed floor to conceal my air components and bridge. I hope this helps. clark

[Jayschevy]

Originally Posted by dec010974

hello c10agent. pm me your number so I can call you direct. here are some pic I stole from another build on this site. they raised the bed floor. I'm gonna add a frame to cover my existing bed floor to conceal my air components and bridge. I hope this helps. clark

What are those spacers called?

[dec010974]

Jayschevy, I have no idea. I assume you can 2x2 tubing for the same effect.

[C10agent]

I saw that thread and I think they are like Jeep parts for lifting. I like the thought, question though. How do you lower the bed sides so it looks right? Do you have to reweld the bed floor? Good idea and I will see if I can dig up that link.

[C10agent]

Found it

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444746

[dec010974]

here is my start.

[C10agent]

That is EXACTLY what I was wanting to see. Can you completely lay frame or get close?

[SCOTI]

I did (well started anyway) my 64's floor like Gringo did in the link. He used 3" body lift pucks available @ 4×4 joints. But that's not enough clearance to lay frame. My 64's fame was set-up to be ~1" from the ground @ the rear cab mount (project 'Recycle').

Like 'dec010974', I cut out the center of the floor as needed & then covered it w/another floor so it looks fairly stock for my 89 cc dually. Look @ my build thread to see how I did it (project 'Double Wide'). The difference will be if you actually use your truck like it's still a truck, the floor needs to be braced side to side or it will sink (w/enough weight) if just spaced under the bed bolts. My dually does plant the frame rails.

[tinydb84]

SCOTI: how much weight do you think it would take to bend? I don't plan on ever using it like a truck but would assume I may need to help move some furniture now and then.

Clark yours is looking good as always.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

SCOTI: how much weight do you think it would take to bend? I don't plan on ever using it like a truck but would assume I may need to help move some furniture now and then.

Clark yours is looking good as always.

I weigh about 175-180 & if I step on the section between the wheel wells, it wants to bend.

For my dually, that portion of the floor will be supported by the step-notch bridge beam once the bed gets bolted to the frame. While it has been on the cart for the mods, I taped off the floor to remind myself to not step between the tape. The rest of my floor I walk on w/o worry as there is a support beam under every OE bed support.

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I weigh about 175-180 & if I step on the section between the wheel wells, it wants to bend.

For my dually, that portion of the floor will be supported by the step-notch bridge beam once the bed gets bolted to the frame. While it has been on the cart for the mods, I taped off the floor to remind myself to not step between the tape. The rest of my floor I walk on w/o worry as there is a support beam under every OE bed support.

Well then my idea isnt going to work for my fat ass...

Clark: Send me over your crossmember and I will section it for free for you buddy.

[dec010974]

@ c10agent here are a few photos. take in mind that every case is different. this is food for thought. this is my truck with the brigde, bags mounted on the rear end, bed cut for tire clearance. a drop member is gonna be needed for the front. im gnona have to bite the bullet sooner or later. the second pic is what im after. third photo is my last build I sold. I still kicking myself for that one. the wife was talking about family time, all that stuff. yeah rite. anyway. don't mind im just mouthing off.

[Tree-50]

Hey dec, is that the proper place for the shock relocation? I've never seen any there or even so straight up and down.

[dec010974]

@ Tree-50, its actually not straight up n down. its at angle. the pics show it that way. the lower shock mount is attached to the trailing arm mount. as I read thru the build threads on this site, there is a thousand ways to skin a cat. if I could only get more drop in the front of my ride. that would be awesome. porterbuilt is looking real good. aggie91 did something I never thought of. he raised the stock cross member by cutting the front area where you mount he stock cross member. I wonder what ill effects that's has on geometry, steering and all the other stuff.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by dec010974

...if I could only get more drop in the front of my ride. that would be awesome. porterbuilt is looking real good. aggie91 did something I never thought of. he raised the stock cross member by cutting the front area where you mount he stock cross member. I wonder what ill effects that's has on geometry, steering and all the other stuff.

It doesn't impact it significantly more than all the geometry getting changed by the a-arm vs tie-rod angles being off when using super short springs to yield the same amount of drop. My dually has a 1.5" notched x-member. It allows it to lay frame & keeps the a-arms off the ground (OE dually frames are 2" taller @ the bottom of the rail vs a 1/2 ton frame).

[dec010974]

@ SCOTI, the reason I asked is because it would be easier, for me, to cut notch the frame rather go thru the hassle to section the cross member. also SCOTI, another question, im trying to avoid throwing cash in the air. will PB control arms be beneficial, to gain more drop up front? or will i need the drop member to do that? their control arms seem to position the bag lower than stock control arms. also I can avoid the cost of the rack pinion steering cost. my rear suspension can get pretty low.

[Tree-50]

That is actually something I would do before I Z it.. Do either of you have a link to it? But I feel you dec, I will be in the same boat, working on my rear notch right now and then the bag/axle

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by dec010974

@ SCOTI, the reason I asked is because it would be easier, for me, to cut notch the frame rather go thru the hassle to section the cross member. also SCOTI, another question, im trying to avoid throwing cash in the air. will PB control arms be beneficial, to gain more drop up front? or will i need the drop member to do that? their control arms seem to position the bag lower than stock control arms. also I can avoid the cost of the rack pinion steering cost. my rear suspension can get pretty low.

I modded my a-arms originally. The drop would have been about the same but the PB arms already had the sway bar tab, Delrin bushings, & the forward position of the BJ so I opted for them since clearance between arm & bag was a concern for me.

[dec010974]

@ tinydb84, if you section my front cross member, ill send you a lsx harness and pcm, ready to run. i'll clean up all the extra wiring, set the relays/fuse box up, and loom it too. all you would have to do is plug it up and play. "you know I got you homeboy."

[502ms]

I did a raised floor. Strong enough to hold a human and a motorcycle or a fully dressed LS engine. Build thread in signature