Help with Seat Belt Bolt

[Already Gone]

I am trying to get the pictured bolt out. I used a 13/16 swivel socket and a hand ratchet on it and it loosened a bit. Now it won't budge in either direction even with an impact drill. I know it's been there 43 years but.. Anyone got any ideas

[carsonmx114]

move the carpet out of the way then heat the nut from underneath with a map gas torch. Try to heat the nut quickly and avoid heating the bolt as much as possible. The idea is to expand the nut before bolt heats and expands with it. This will give the threads a little more clearance. Also heat will draw in penetrating lubricant if you have some to spray on it while it's hot.

[Already Gone]

Thanks and I'm sure that will work. I am working without a hoist so I don't want to play with a torch lying oy back under the truck.

[Mike C]

Screw it back in and put lots of penetrant on the protruded threads. Then screw it out. Then screw it in and re-apply. Repeat until it comes out.

[Already Gone]

It won't screw back down, even with an impact.

[LockDoc]

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If you can get a small hammer in there spray around the threads with the penetrating oil then rap it on top quite a few times with the hammer. If you can't get a hammer in there your only option is the heat or a 25" breaker bar...... If you don't heat it you may twist off the weld nut under the floor. I have also heated the bolt from the top but you have to let it cool completely before trying to remove it if you do that.

LockDoc

[Mock1]

Originally Posted by Already Gone

It won't screw back down, even with an impact.

Then more than likely, its stripped.
Probably from not being the correct thread.
Big breaker bar, cheater pipe and hope it dont break the bolt.

[carsonmx114]

We use the handheld butane type torch for most of our stuff around the shop. It's much easier to manage. It won't get the stuff red hot but it usually gets it hot enough to break loose. I have a oxygen acetylene setup but I rarely need it. You may even be able to heat it from the top as the heat will transfer to the nut if you heat the metal around the bracket. It will cook your paint around the mounting point though.

[brown7373]

Actually, I don't think it has been in there 43 years, as I don't think it is an original seat belt bolt. A seat belt bolt looks like some variation (length, shoulder) of the one on the left. Might it be the wrong thread and forced in?

[Keith Seymore]

I suspect you might be able to put more torque to it with a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar and cheater pipe. Then do the back in/back out technique as suggested above.

I can usually break things loose (...or just break things) with the big wrench more than I can with my impact. Given a long enough lever you can move the world (Archimeides would have been a pretty good mechanic).

K

[Mock1]

Just took mine out of my 67 last night, will post them tonight as well. Should be the same.

[LockDoc]

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No picture on the computer but I have found two different styles, one with a shoulder and larger head and one without. The ones without the shoulder look like a regular bolt. I believe they are grade 8.

LockDoc

[Mock1]

What year? Dont know if these different for what years but...
Here's a bolt from a 67.

Bolts on the 69 are the same.

[Already Gone]

Here are the pics of the ones form my truck. I have 2 like this. Does anyone know if these are correct for a 72 C10.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Already Gone

Here are the pics of the ones form my truck. I have 2 like this. Does anyone know if these are correct for a 72 C10.

If those were both in the retractors I think they are correct.

LockDoc

[bluek5]

Originally Posted by Already Gone

Here are the pics of the ones form my truck. I have 2 like this. Does anyone know if these are correct for a 72 C10.

Yes that is the correct bolt.
Paul

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by Mock1

What year? Dont know if these different for what years but...
Here's a bolt from a 67.

Bolts on the 69 are the same.

That's a 7/16-20 (fine thread) bolt, used in 67 only. All other years take a 1/2-13 (coarse thread) bolt.

[joeydurango]

I do not know if those are correct for sure, but both sides of my '72 K10 are much more like what you just pulled out and not at all like what was pictured from the '67 above.

[ironman3452]

work it back and forth, oil, and a cheater bar on a 1/2 inch wratchet

[bluek5]

I have removed dozens of the bolts for the retractors. I will take a couple of pictures of one if you would like. The retractor bolts are not shouldered because they do not swivel. The two inside belt bolts are shouldered. Your bolt is correct right down to the putty on the bolt from the original installation. Hope this helps.
Paul

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by bluek5

I have removed dozens of the bolts for the retractors. I will take a couple of pictures of one if you would like. The retractor bolts are not shouldered because they do not swivel. The two inside belt bolts are shouldered. Your bolt is correct right down to the putty on the bolt from the original installation. Hope this helps.
Paul

Thank you Paul. Yes there was yellow putty on the bottom of the the bracket the bolts went through as well. I will reuse these ( after a turn with the wire wheel to clean up the threads) when I reinstall my seat belts.

[LockDoc]

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..with Paul.... I have removed a lot of them too.

LockDoc

[Mock1]

Originally Posted by bluek5

I have removed dozens of the bolts for the retractors. I will take a couple of pictures of one if you would like. The retractor bolts are not shouldered because they do not swivel. The two inside belt bolts are shouldered. Your bolt is correct right down to the putty on the bolt from the original installation. Hope this helps.
Paul

Thank you as well, I just got schooled a little bit.
My 67 didnt have retract belts on the outside, the 69 does.
Another assumption on my part without taking off the retractable covers off to see.
Thanks.

[Mike C]

Cool. Learned something new. I know I've replaced both styles and forgot the retractor bolt was different.