Breaking down for sandblasting - best approach without a trailer?

[msg]

This is my first venture into a having a truck sandblasted, or anything sandblasted. The blaster place is about 5 miles from me.

Since I dont have a trailer or a car with a hitch I think these are my options. Let me know which you think works best or is possible.

PLAN A- TOW + Moving Truck Rental

1. Keep the front suspension as is and let them blast what they can, then later once Im home remove it all and take back what needs to be further blasted
2. Loosen and retighten the cab mounts so once on site at the blaster I can (with the help of the blaster guys) remove the cab so the frame can get blasted apart from the frame.
3. Rent a moving truck to transport the bed that has been completely disassembled, plus all the other loose parts and panels

or

PLAN B- Pack it all in a Moving Truck Rental

All of this assumes that 2 or 3 people can lift the frame and cab and that a cab will fit into a moving truck.

1. Take every bolted part possible apart
2. Remove the doors
3. Place cab into the moving truck-assuming it fits tilted upright with the back of the cab resting on the moving truck floor.
4. Place the frame in
5. Place the remaining panels and parts in with a bunch of moving blankets so things dont get any more dented than they are.

Here is where I am so far, trying to get the engine and trans out this week.
First time doing that as well.






Learning as I go.

[53Sparky]

I would go for plan B. Sandblasting parts that aren't fully disassembled seems like a waste of time to me. If you're going to do something, do it right the first time.

From experience, the entire truck can fit into a 16' box truck completely disassembled, but it's a lot of work. I drove 30 miles to get to the sandblaster. My recommendation is that you plan several trips using a dry enclosed box if there's any risk of precipitation *frozen, fog, rain...* because everything bare WILL rust when it gets wet.

If your sandblasting shop is only 5 miles away, you can afford to take several trips.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by 53Sparky

I would go for plan B. Sandblasting parts that aren't fully disassembled seems like a waste of time to me. If you're going to do something, do it right the first time.

From experience, the entire truck can fit into a 16' box truck completely disassembled, but it's a lot of work. I drove 30 miles to get to the sandblaster. My recommendation is that you plan several trips using a dry enclosed box if there's any risk of precipitation *frozen, fog, rain...* because everything bare WILL rust when it gets wet.

If your sandblasting shop is only 5 miles away, you can afford to take several trips.

What he said!

Brian

[donthekawguy]

Plan B or make a friend that has a truck.

[53Sparky]

Originally Posted by donthekawguy

Plan B or make a friend that has a truck.

My favorite bumper sticker:

"Yes, this is my truck. No, I won't help you move."

[msg]

Thanks guys, yeah this truck has helped a few folks move. Figured I'll not bother the family and friends with trucks on this one. Especially since I'm seeing 16 ft box moving trucks for under $30 a day- with that enclosed space you mentioned Sparky! Heck the tow was quoted at $60. I just wasnt sure how heavy the frame and cab without the doors might be. Gonna need some family/friends help though just loading and unloading - cashing in on past favors.

[53Sparky]

2 guys can easily manage the chassis. That's the heaviest part. The rest is just bulky. Even the cab isn't too bad. My friend and I loaded the truck without any forklifts or other aids. Granted, we're both hearty stock raised on the farm. Maybe for them cissy city folk it might take 1 or two more guys. Pay them with a six pack of barley pop and most of my friends will do almost anything.

[Modges'66]

Why not search for a portable sandblasting service?
I had a '70 Chevelle, and a '69 Corvette sandblasted at my house over the years.
They did it in my side yard, and after it rained a few times you couldn't even tell where they did it.
Both times it only took the guy about 2 hrs. and it was only a matter of setting the stuff up for him, and putting it back in the garage after he left...It seemed like the best option for me!

[Captainfab]

I would definitely go with plan B. I would figure 4 guys to move the cab and frame safely and without anyone getting hurt. Sure it could be done with 2 guys but why strain your gonads if you don't have to.

Just be sure that who ever you take it to for blasting is experienced in blasting auto body sheetmetal. Someone that typically does just blasting on heavy steel could easily ruin your entire truck body. I also recommend against using silica sand for the blast media. There are some epoxy primers that are not compatible with a surface that has been blasted with silica sand.

[msg]

Originally Posted by Modges'66

Why not search for a portable sandblasting service?

I wish I could go this route.

Most of the reputable blasters that I checked into that would blast on site for me were using soda and I have read that while soda is great for being less harmful to the environment,avoids silicosis, less likely to warp a panel, the main drawback for me was the prepping for paint and the difficulty of getting the surfaces and crevices free and clear of the residue. This is my first time ever using a paint gun and I just wanted one less thing to manage.

But the main reason is that where I live the houses are on narrow lots maybe 25-30ft apart. And with kids running around getting curious of a blaster in my driveway just wouldnt work too well.

Originally Posted by DPowers

What happens after everything gets blasted?
Going to a body shop or are you going to do the finish work yourself?

Since about the same time last year I starting buying up equipment and building up the nerve to learn to restore/spruce up my truck. I hope to move things along quicker but being a first timer to body work and paint I try not to move too quickly and screw something up.

Here is the thread I started, I wouldn't call it a build thread --more like a summary page from all the other threads I put out to get answers for so I can track the progress and share what I learn as I go.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=623848

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I would definitely go with plan B. I would figure 4 guys to move the cab and frame safely and without anyone getting hurt. Sure it could be done with 2 guys but why strain your gonads if you don't have to.

Just be sure that who ever you take it to for blasting is experienced in blasting auto body sheetmetal. Someone that typically does just blasting on heavy steel could easily ruin your entire truck body. I also recommend against using silica sand for the blast media. There are some epoxy primers that are not compatible with a surface that has been blasted with silica sand.

Thanks for the pointers Captain! I think I can get 3 others to help lift and shift. I'll have to check with the blaster but Im pretty sure its a mon-fri operation and getting 3 folks to take a day off to help would be too much to ask. Unless I keep the truck a few days and have the help at night.

The blaster I decided to go with a company that came recommended from the PPG shop. Also called around to other garages I go to for help that do custom work and they have heard good things about their work. I got a local quote of $1200 to do the cab and bed if I had it removed from the frame. He said it would be the same price if I left the cab altogether or had it broken down more like removing doors, fenders etc. So I like the idea of a total part breakdown and have them blast. He also quoted me $250 for the frame.

He said he would use a media called starblast and take best care not to warp any of the panels that typically get ruined like hood and roof that are long and straight. He said there will be some spots Ill have to get my DA out to finish as to not risk warping.

Thanks all for the input!

[DPowers]

What happens after everything gets blasted?
Going to a body shop or are you going to do the finish work yourself?

[DPowers]

Originally Posted by DPowers

What happens after everything gets blasted?
Going to a body shop or are you going to do the finish work yourself?

The reason I asked that is had you thought about splitting it up? Do the frame or body first and then move to the other? Blasted parts rust very quickly and if you don't get them protected, you will be doing it again. My 2 cents. I looked at your build thread- very nice work.

[msg]

Originally Posted by DPowers

The reason I asked that is had you thought about splitting it up? Do the frame or body first and then move to the other? Blasted parts rust very quickly and if you don't get them protected, you will be doing it again. My 2 cents. I looked at your build thread- very nice work.

I hadn't considered that but you got me thinking now. The thought was to have it all blasted and placed into my single car garage and get each part/panel epoxy primered as quickly as I can. I have the garage insulated and climate controlled as best as possible with a wall AC unit and space heaters and a dehumidifier running. I will check with the blaster and ask if the price changes based on me breaking the blasts up into 3 or 4 stages and see what he says. I had thought about using picklex to treat the surfaces but I wasnt sure how difficult it will be to clear the surfaces and crevices of that stuff before I hit with the SPI Epoxy Primer.

In fact after reading more carefully the instructions on the primer states..

"In cold shop conditions this primer can and will go dormant. Keep heat on the car for 24 hours after spraying with an absolute minimum metal temperature of 65° F. Also, when it’s cold it will help to mix primer and let it induce 60 minutes before spraying. Application of any epoxy in cold weather can destroy a paint job. Bottom line is if the car metal cannot be kept at 65° or higher as well as the shop temp for the next 24 hours, DO NOT spray our epoxy, as you may end up redoing all your hard work. "

Looks like I need to wait to blast til things warm up here is GA. Probably April.

Thanks for checking the build, Im looking forward to getting back to welding..its been too long.

[brettster]

I would go with plan B.Make sure you get some primer on it quick.Like within 24 hrs.Sandblasting opens up the pores in the metal and if left untreated rust will set in quick.

[Wingnut1]

I'd think it would be quite a PIA to remove the Picklex from the nooks and crannies good enough for the SPI to stick. You are better off splitting it up so you don't end up with a bunch of bare metal sitting around. Keep in mind just cleaning with wax and grease remover will take longer than spraying.

I took parts in one time and wife picked them up when it was stormy. They flashed rusted almost overnight. You should try to figure out how long they will have them and drop them off so you pick them up when it's great out.

If you are taking smaller bites to the blaster, can you rent an open u-haul trailer? Also, about plan A, you would not want to get sand in the ball joints, wheel bearings and rest of the suspension where you really don't want it.

[BigDan3131]

Speaking from experience since I restore cars and trucks for a living. Have you accounted for body rot and replacement panels? You wont know how nice or bad things are on the sheetmetal and even if you get all the media out you cant get primer in all of those areas and with the humidity it will start to rust again.

Instead I would concentrate your efforts on the suspension and frame. Buy the new replacement ball joints and tie rod ends now and unless your going to blow apart the diff completely Do Not send it out and instead degrease and wirewheel it at home. I'm sure the frame will have pits in it [they all do] after blasting to get the really tough rust and gunk off so instead of primer then paint just go buy a couple of gallons of this: http://www.kilz.com/hammerite/v/inde...008a05d103RCRD you can roll it on if you want but I reduce it with acetone in a 2:1 mixture, 2 parts Hammerite to 1 part Acetone. The solid colors are true to the color, the hammered black looks more grey than black. This stuff is tough, after waiting the 7-12 days for it to dry its very tough. I would spray 1 light coat to start then 4 medium heavy coats with a 1.8 tip. If you want that semi gloss look buy both gloss black and flat black and mix them and it should come out semi gloss. I would paint it all and let it dry and then piece by piece do the blasting per panel and do your body work then once its dry put it back together and you can set it outside out of your way. The longer it drys the harder it gets and Rustoleum Hammerite is not even close to being the same thing.

[JointTech]

city wimp checking in. No way 2 city guys can lift the cab or the frame even without the rearend or crossmember. I used a cherry picker to get both onto the trailer and the shop had a forklift to get it off.
i didnt completely break up my frame. I wish I had. If you do blow it apart completely you can get it on a trailer or truck yourself or a little help. Plus they do a better job blasting it. Cab is to bulky to move with 2 guys. Bed... forget it. that thing is a beast.

[53Sparky]

Originally Posted by JointTech

city wimp checking in. No way 2 city guys can lift the cab or the frame even without the rearend or crossmember. I used a cherry picker to get both onto the trailer and the shop had a forklift to get it off.
i didnt completely break up my frame. I wish I had. If you do blow it apart completely you can get it on a trailer or truck yourself or a little help. Plus they do a better job blasting it. Cab is to bulky to move with 2 guys. Bed... forget it. that thing is a beast.

This made me laugh. I'll get a shot of my friend and I picking up the frame before we start re assembly. I'll agree with you that the cab is bulky but it isn't that heavy.

[hugger6933]

I want to speak toward the smaller aspect of the job think about doing the smaller part[not small part but small part] like breaking it down into components like suspension and frame then do your body panels. your talking about hurrying home to get some epoxy on it and that you've been talking to the PPG guys[they didn't try to sell you the Omni epoxy?]but that stuff has a smallish window for people that aren't on a project full time. Meaning I'm not sure about the SPI brand but on the PPG stuff after 7 days I think it has to be sanded and recoated with 2 more coats of epoxy then move on to the high build. so aside from the waste of product about all your allowing to be done is the putting of of rust on those panels, if your ok with that that is fine but if your hoping to move right into the next aspect of the paint job such as moving on to the high build primer then you need to do some more thinking. Also if you are planning to resand the epoxy to recoat it be forewarned that the epoxy sands like concrete.
also you said your lots are very narrow where you are be very careful of drift as you may find yourself doing paint work on something you had not planed on because of drift. some of the overspray can move a very long distance. If you need any more help in this area just holler and I'll try to hook you up with some answers. Jim

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

I want to speak toward the smaller aspect of the job think about doing the smaller part[not small part but small part] like breaking it down into components like suspension and frame then do your body panels. your talking about hurrying home to get some epoxy on it and that you've been talking to the PPG guys[they didn't try to sell you the Omni epoxy?]but that stuff has a smallish window for people that aren't on a project full time. Meaning I'm not sure about the SPI brand but on the PPG stuff after 7 days I think it has to be sanded and recoated with 2 more coats of epoxy then move on to the high build. so aside from the waste of product about all your allowing to be done is the putting of of rust on those panels, if your ok with that that is fine but if your hoping to move right into the next aspect of the paint job such as moving on to the high build primer then you need to do some more thinking. Also if you are planning to resand the epoxy to recoat it be forewarned that the epoxy sands like concrete.
also you said your lots are very narrow where you are be very careful of drift as you may find yourself doing paint work on something you had not planed on because of drift. some of the overspray can move a very long distance. If you need any more help in this area just holler and I'll try to hook you up with some answers. Jim

What he said x100

Brian

[msg]

Thanks everyone again for the feedback, its definitely steered me in the direction of a modified plan B with the insight shared on taking too much at once to the blaster. So Ill have a series of trips over a longer period of time.

I'll take time disassembling the suspension and buying replacement parts , especially while I am waiting for better blasting/painting weather conditions.

Originally Posted by hugger6933

[they didn't try to sell you the Omni epoxy?]

I had stopped into the PPG store just to ask for sand blaster recommendations, I had already read up on and liked what I read on the SPI brand. So I bought the epoxy from SPI.

Originally Posted by hugger6933

I'm not sure about the SPI brand but on the PPG stuff after 7 days I think it has to be sanded and recoated with 2 more coats of epoxy then move on to the high build. so aside from the waste of product about all your allowing to be done is the putting of of rust on those panels,

SPI has been great at answering q's and from a few phone calls Ive put a list of how to's together.Ill post those if folks are interested but the limit is also 7 days like you mentioned.

Originally Posted by hugger6933

also you said your lots are very narrow where you are be very careful of drift as you may find yourself doing paint work on something you had not planed on because of drift. some of the overspray can move a very long distance.

While Im waiting on better weather I'll be planning out the single garage setup of mine and how I can convert it into a paint booth. Kinda like this i think
http://www.wikihow.com/Create-a-Pain...in-Your-Garage

Originally Posted by hugger6933

If you need any more help in this area just holler and I'll try to hook you up with some answers. Jim

Jim you have given me alot of help in the past with painting q's and once I ever get to that point I will be revisiting your advice. Thanks!