Do these alt conversion kits work?

[Custom/Ten]

Do these alternator conversion kits from lmc work without requiring additional wiring and replacing my amp gauge with a volt meter?
Thanks for any input!

[magicoolbus]

The kit is typically just a connector that is wired to bypass the external regulator when you install an internal regulator alternator. There are numerous how to's in the electrical section on how to do this swap. Your existing amp gauge needs no modificaiton with the typical external to internal alternator. Do your research and you should find a fairly simple and straight forward method. If 'vettevette' or 'fixitP' are commenting and providing insight and information, you well be well served.

[Custom/Ten]

Ok cool, I was ordering something else and when I saw this I remember my alt bearing was getting a bit noisy. If I'm going to replace the alt anyway I figure I might as well get rid of the external regulator. Maybe I'll up the amps a little too.

[enaberif]

I put a CS140 into my 74 truck. It took 1 simple adapter from Napa which has two versions. One version has a resistor the other version does not and the adapter cost me all of $25.

Alternator brackets may need to be tweaked as well depending on what alternator you use but a CS130 should be a direct bolt in.

ECH EC80 = No Resistor
ECH EC82 = Resistor

[Custom/Ten]

Originally Posted by enaberif

I put a CS140 into my 74 truck. It took 1 simple adapter from Napa which has two versions. One version has a resistor the other version does not and the adapter cost me all of $25.

Alternator brackets may need to be tweaked as well depending on what alternator you use but a CS130 should be a direct bolt in.

ECH EC80 = No Resistor
ECH EC82 = Resistor

We'll that sounds pretty easy, what's the resister for?

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Custom/Ten

We'll that sounds pretty easy, what's the resister for?

Well the resistor is a bit of a mystery. Apparently some say the resistor is to be used if I recall with vehicles that have idiot lights. But also some people say to just run the resistor because if you don't your truck may never shut off.

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by Custom/Ten

We'll that sounds pretty easy, what's the resister for?

The factory wiring in all 1967 - 1972 GM trucks contains a 10Ω resistance wire in the cab harness that prevents the alternator exciter circuit from back-feeding the ignition.

That 10Ω resistance wire will work fine if you are converting to a 10SI or 12SI internally regulated alternator.

But the newer CS-series alternators require at least 35Ω if you're hooking the circuit up to the L terminal. So there are conversion adapters available that contain an extra resistor to make up the difference.

Also, a lot of 1973 & newer GM vehicles no longer have the 10Ω resistance wire in applications without an ammeter or voltmeter ... they just rely on the resistance of the "gen" / "charge" indicator bulb. So that's why you see a difference in some adapters being listed for vehicles with vs. without gauges.

[Custom/Ten]

Thanks for clearing that up ray