If you have bags and a c-notch please step inside

[1moretoy]

A few questions for you guys. I'm running slam ss7 bags a c-notch and 2" lowering blocks that I made. I plan on running 20" wheels as well.
1. when aired up to ride height how much space is between the axle housing and the bump stop in the notch? I'm thinking I will be around 5" or so, does this seem right?
2. I'm not sure what to do with my drive line angle. If the gap is 5" for drive height the yoke on the rear end is pointed up and the output shaft on the trans is pointing down. Isn't it supposed to be the opposite? A friend of mine has some 2" blocks that are tapered from his lifted truck I could use. Not sure what to do here. I attached a couple pictures to help with what I'm trying to describe. The third picture is the degree of the yoke(pointing up) if I'm at the 5" mark for ride height. Please let me know what you think.

Thank you,

[tinydb84]

1. 5 inches should be plenty.

2. Trans down and rear end up is normal. It looks like you have about 6 degrees up which is a bit more than you want but is probably okay. Does your trans point down 6 degrees as well?

[1moretoy]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

1. 5 inches should be plenty.

2. Trans down and rear end up is normal. It looks like you have about 6 degrees up which is a bit more than you want but is probably okay. Does your trans point down 6 degrees as well?

Do I just stick the angle finder on the tail shaft to figure out the degree?

[tinydb84]

Yes. It should be within a degree or so. Maybe someone else will jump in but I would like it closer to 3-4 degrees.

[1moretoy]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Yes. It should be within a degree or so. Maybe someone else will jump in but I would like it closer to 3-4 degrees.

Ok I disconnected the drive shaft and the tail shaft is pointing down about 6.5°-7°. And with the rear axle 5" before it hits the bump stop on the c-notch the yoke is pointing up between 5.5° and 6°. You think I will be ok ? Thanks for the help.

[tinydb84]

You're pretty close. I'd put a small spacer (probably 1/4" or less) under the trans to get it to 5 degrees. When you accelerate your rear end will turn upward a degree or two.

[1moretoy]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

You're pretty close. I'd put a small spacer (probably 1/4" or less) under the trans to get it to 5 degrees. When you accelerate your rear end will turn upward a degree or two.

Thank you for the help tiny.

[1moretoy]

Originally Posted by 1moretoy

Thank you for the help tiny.

Anyone else?

[mongoose]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

You're pretty close. I'd put a small spacer (probably 1/4" or less) under the trans to get it to 5 degrees. When you accelerate your rear end will turn upward a degree or two.

are truck arms really that flimsy? I know leafs do that.. but though arms would get rid of that problem.

[1moretoy]

Originally Posted by mongoose

are truck arms really that flimsy? I know leafs do that.. but though arms would get rid of that problem.

I thought the same thing.

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by mongoose

are truck arms really that flimsy? I know leafs do that.. but though arms would get rid of that problem.

I could be wrong. Nice thing about a shim is that you could remove it if it does cause vibrations.

[SCOTI]

The pinion shouldn't rotate/change much w/truck arms during acceleration. The rotating up issue is usually w/leaf spring set-ups.

[DLW]

Kind of a more simplistic view but what your looking for is the centerline A and centerline C are the same angle or really close to each other, and not pointed directly at each other.

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by DLW

Kind of a more simplistic view but what your looking for is the centerline A and centerline C are the same angle or really close to each other, and not pointed directly at each other.

Thanks DLW, that is the most helpful illustration I've seen showing the angle relationships.