Engine Break In?

[IntegratedTJ]

So I just got the fully rebuilt engine in my truck and I was wondering what break-in process you guys use. I already did the 20 minutes at 2000 RPM's. Just normal driving now, but being gentle on the pedal? Oil change at 20 miles, 50 miles, 100 miles, and 200 miles? Just curious if people do it different or if there is a very specific way.

[Norgermish]

Originally Posted by IntegratedTJ

So I just got the fully rebuilt engine in my truck and I was wondering what break-in process you guys use. I already did the 20 minutes at 2000 RPM's. Just normal driving now, but being gentle on the pedal? Oil change at 20 miles, 50 miles, 100 miles, and 200 miles? Just curious if people do it different or if there is a very specific way.

Before starting I do a compression check and watch oil pressure gauge to make sure oil pump is working. Start, idle 1500, closing choke as soon as possible, for 20 mins. During initial start warm up, checking for leaks,timing etc. If all is good rev slightly up and down 1000 - 2500 rpm. During first 500 miles no over revving or lugging. I change the oil @ 100, 200, 500. Not a good idea to use synthetics during the break in period, too slick. All break in is doing is seating rings/valves etc., all reground, honed, refinished metals have high spots. It's basically just a bunch of scratches the finer and closer together the scratches the shinier the finish, but still has high spots just not as high. Changing the oil at 20, 50 miles is a bit extreme.

['68 Newtricks]

also go back and check intake and exhaust manifold bolts when you do the oil change. Maybe even sooner....

[tranz am]

I usually run the initial cam break in fluctuating from 2200 to 2600. I use a cheep conventional oil with a zinc aditive or engine break in. dump it and the filter afterwards. Let it cool down to normal ambient tempeture. (Important)
Fill it back up again with more cheep conventional oil. Use good filters though like a wix.
Check bolts as stated before, tighten if nessesary, check for leaks and other fluid levels.
Fire it up make more adjustments if needed and hit the road. Do not under any circumstance hold the rpms at the same rpms for a long length of time. That could glaze your cylinder walls and ruin your ring break in. Fluctuating speeds is best.
drive like this for about 200 hundred miles or so and park it. Drain oil and filter. Replace with conventional oil with zinc additive. Use a good quality filter.
Again check the bolts and for leaks. Adjust things if needed and hit the road. Again trying not to hold the rpms at one spot too long. Drive it like this for 500 miles then dump the oil and replace with conventional oil, zinc aditive and with a good filter. Adjust anything if necessary check bolts ,fluids and leaks. Hit the road and drive it the same as before. Dont be scared to give it some rpms now , should be fine and dandy to do so just dont be stupid about it and redline the crap out of it. Just ease into it a little at a time. Put 1500 miles on it and dump the oil and replace with a beter semi synthetic or full synthetic with good filter. Drive it hard as you will always drive it. Change oil at normal intervals.

[tranz am]

Also I would recommend using a bypass block off under the oi filter. The stock oil filter adapter has a spring loaded flapper valve in it to let unfiltered oil circulate through the motor if by chance your filter clogs. Its a failsafe to keep the engine lubricated, but the problem with them is over time the spring gets week and the flap ends up opening when it shouldn't be. If you chose to use a bypass block off you can not run a normal paper type oil filter with a high pressure pump. It will blow out the paper inside and not filter anymore. Run a wix racing or equivalent.

[IntegratedTJ]

Originally Posted by tranz am

Also I would recommend using a bypass block off under the oi filter. The stock oil filter adapter has a spring loaded flapper valve in it to let unfiltered oil circulate through the motor if by chance your filter clogs. Its a failsafe to keep the engine lubricated, but the problem with them is over time the spring gets week and the flap ends up opening when it shouldn't be. If you chose to use a bypass block off you can not run a normal paper type oil filter with a high pressure pump. It will blow out the paper inside and not filter anymore. Run a wix racing or equivalent.

Yeah, I am definitely using a Wix. Have personally seen the inside of a Wix compared to, say, a Fram, and I am never going back. Sticking to Wix or K&N, etc.

[engineer_gregh]

Wow, I ran the heck out of mine after the 20 minute cam break in and a few miles. Changed the oil after 500 miles and then again at 1500 miles. I continue to use Comp Cams break in oil for the most zinc. Now I've got about 5500 miles and it runs like a champ.