moving the motor forward

[spookylynx]

So to start Its a '65 c10 and I am going to put in a 350sbc / 700R4.

I am going to move the motor forward to the front position for two reasons, 1. I like the look of not having the distributor right up against the firewall.
2. the 700R4 should fit in a bit better.

I have been reading all the threads and FAQ sections, the only real question I have left is:

When you move the motor mounts (I'm using the stock ones) forward to the front holes, do they stay the same distance apart? or do I need to add spacers?

have seen 1 person use 1/2" spacers under the mounts, but most havent.

[jjzepplin]

I did this on my 4x4 is yours 2wd? It worked out good for me. Dizzy is easy to get to and those last couple header bolts are easy too. All around the best thing I have ever done yet maybe.

[GVDobler]

What are the dynamics of moving 8-9 hundred pounds forward?

Does any notable change take place in the handling?

[jjzepplin]

Not on my 4x4. Of course there is a big 14 bolt holding the rear down and I installed a big front sway bar too. It's only a couple inches on mine.

[Palf70Step]

Weren't the V8's in the front holes from the factory?

I know on the 67-72's they were, but lot of folks put them in the 6 slot rearward holes for weight or because the wanted to keep the same tranny/drivetrain of the 6.

[Bentbolt]

How much forward? Weight up front will make it pull like a dump truck when u turning. Moving batt and fuel into box might help. Scaling each corner would help as u can adjust weight percentages

[gmcdeadhead]

i just did the 350/700r4 swap in my 66 c-20. i used the clam shell mounts from a 1987 r30 donor truck i had . i swapped the front end and rear end also from the 87 r30. using the r30 mounts and putting them in there original holes on the crossmember i had to take out about 1/2" from the top of the frame rail. then i just drilled two new holes where the mounts laid.it moved my hei distributor off the firewall about 2". plenty of clearance now. i had to shorten my drive shaft , and im using the long water pump.. i did not have a fan shroud , so i ordered one from summit racing, the kind that comes in a kit that you fabricate yourself.

[Captainfab]

When moving a small block from the original location in the rear position to the forward position, you need to either use the '67-'72 small block engine mount brackets, or the '73-'86 C20/30 or '87-'92 R2500/3500 frame brackets. The C20/30 frame brackets fit the earlier frames better than the brackets from a C10 of the same vintage.

Just be aware that many of the original '63-'66 components that have to do with the engine will no longer fit correctly.

The HEI will fit and work just fine in a small block mounted in the original (rear) location. Also there are no issues with a TH350, TH400 or TH700R4 fitting with the engine in the rear location when using the correct engine mounts and trans crossmember.

[Shtudwn]

Captainfab,

My 350 with stock HEI sits right against the firewall. It fits but the wires are resting against the firewall and it wouldnt take anything to knock it out of of time. Therefore I want to move the engine forward a bit.

You suggest the 67-72 small block mounts. Will that move it forward a couple of inches? Will I still use the back holes?

Thank you.

Originally Posted by Captain

When moving a small block from the original location in the rear position to the forward position, you need to either use the '67-'72 small block engine mount brackets, or the '73-'86 C20/30 or '87-'92 R2500/3500 frame brackets. The C20/30 frame brackets fit the earlier frames better than the brackets from a C10 of the same vintage.

Just be aware that many of the original '63-'66 components that have to do with the engine will no longer fit correctly.

The HEI will fit and work just fine in a small block mounted in the original (rear) location. Also there are no issues with a TH350, TH400 or TH700R4 fitting with the engine in the rear location when using the correct engine mounts and trans crossmember.

[bad68nomad]

I have a 700R4 im my 66. I used an 82 crossmember. You just have to drill 4 holes. They are plentiful and cheap in salvage yards.

[Captainfab]

I have never moved a small block with an HEI forward from the stock rear location. Never had a problem to warrant all that work.

No. The '67-'72 small block engine mount brackets bolt in, in the forward holes. I would recommend running a short water pump so that hopefully you can run a stock fan shroud if needed. If you're running a manual trans, you will also have to move the bellhousing crossmember. And then none of the clutch linkage will work and will need to be modified. The driveshaft will need to be lengthened. If you are going with an auto trans, that isn't so bad

Originally Posted by Shtudwn

Captainfab,

My 350 with stock HEI sits right against the firewall. It fits but the wires are resting against the firewall and it wouldnt take anything to knock it out of of time. Therefore I want to move the engine forward a bit.

You suggest the 67-72 small block mounts. Will that move it forward a couple of inches? Will I still use the back holes?

Thank you.

[AcampoDave]

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-...FRSUfgodfhwAtA seems this would be a lot easier than moving the motor to me.

[spookylynx]

thanks for all the input. I did some measuring today, in the rear position the mounting bolt holes on the factory brackets are 15.5" apart. When you move them forward you they measure 15", so you lose 1/2" of separation.

I will probably use POL or LMC trans Xmember, I may make my own but depends if I feel that motivated.

It seems like there isn't much gained by going to the front position, other than the aesthetics of not having the engine pushed that far back in the bay.


Next thought...
So, if I fab my own Xmember.... What is the output angle at the back of the transmission? I would guess level with the truck frame or 0* +/- 1* or essentially level with the rear pinion.

[Captainfab]

The output shaft of the trans must be as close as possible to parallel with the pinion shaft in the differential. This us typically 3-4 degrees down to the rear.

You can use a auto trans crossmember from a '63-'86 C series or '87-'91 R series truck, Suburban or 2wd K5 Blazer. You'll just have to drill the holes in the frame to bolt it in.

[spookylynx]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The output shaft of the trans must be as close as possible to parallel with the pinion shaft in the differential. This us typically 3-4 degrees down to the rear.

You can use a auto trans crossmember from a '63-'86 C series or '87-'91 R series truck, Suburban or 2wd K5 Blazer. You'll just have to drill the holes in the frame to bolt it in.

Thanks Capt. Thats kinda what I was also thinking. Unfortunately the closest pick & pull is about 2hr drive so I usually have resort to pre-made parts or fabbing them myself

Either way....it's getting a power upgrade stuffed in there

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-...FRSUfgodfhwAtA seems this would be a lot easier than moving the motor to me.

I put one of these in my truck . I wanted the stock look anyway. It works very well.

[pdxhall]

I used the 67-72 mounts that fit in the forward hole and it worked out great for me. I have an aftermarket radiator with a shroud and 2 10" fans clearance there was no problem with clearance up front. I also used a new tubular trans mount and and shortened 200 chev truck driveline. Everything works.

[MT65]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

I put one of these in my truck . I wanted the stock look anyway. It works very well.

I’ve used these several times, look great, fits good, looks closer to “stock”, just have to be sure to match the correct coil to the unit you’ll use…Summit mismatched one, burned up distributor in a flash……😟😟😟😟

[ol_skool_chevy]

I put mine in the forward holes I think it looks a lot better ...but the weight would have been better back more. I don't really see any different in a daily driver

[LostMy65]

Are there any other issues anyone had doing this?

[roll_the_dice]

I moved my engine forward using Performance online tubular engine mounts.
Here is a link to the page on my build thread. I think it looks a lot better and my rams horn manifold were hitting my firewall so I had no choice. I didn't actually move the engine forward, I lifted the engine and rolled the truck back the 2" or so...much easier.



After move:

[LostMy65]

I'm thinking that'll also help with the heat on the firewall.

[LostMy65]

Would using the stock V8 perches but putting the left side on the right and the right side on the left move the engine forward?
Looking at my pic it appears it would. Thoughts? The front of my truck is on the right of this pic.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Would using the stock V8 perches but putting the left side on the right and the right side on the left move the engine forward?
Looking at my pic it appears it would. Thoughts? The front of my truck is on the right of this pic.

I searched and didn't find anything.
I'm going to give it a try today.
I'll post back how it goes.
I don't care to move it forward a lot.
Just 1/2 inch will give some better clearance for the distributor.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I searched and didn't find anything.
I'm going to give it a try today.
I'll post back how it goes.
I don't care to move it forward a lot.
Just 1/2 inch will give some better clearance for the distributor.

Update...
I gave up and just drilled new holes about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch forward.