Bumper bracket mounting questions

[Jonlopes]

One of the first mods I want to do with my truck is replace the step bumper with a normal chrome “Sport” bumper. I think they look better and it will allow the longhorn to fit in the garage a little easier. Unfortunately when I crawled under the truck I found the PO both bolted and welded the brackets to the frame:




He also welded a piece of angle iron to the ends of the frame rails



And to the angle iron he welded a pretty heavy duty bracket that goes to the towing receiver.



So I have a few questions for the experts:

First; I was thinking it would be fairly easy to remove the welds with an angle grinder. Is this a good idea or should I just go to a weld shop and have it unwelded correctly?

Second; would I need to remove the angle iron brace or can I leave it in place? Or in other words can I mount the bumper brackets to the outside of the frame?

Third does anyone have any pictures of how the brackets go on a long bed leaf spring truck?

Thanks!

[jessemthompson]

I would personally break out the grinder.

[wbc409]

I would just break out the grinder. Be careful and don't grind to much off of the frame

[Davidf]

Looks like a thoroughly installed and strong bumper. Agreed, cut through welds. Personally, I like using an air cut off tool. Much easier to control than an angle grinder and it cuts through the weld much faster. I even use the cut off tool for rough grinding once the pieces are separated. Again, the air cut off tool grinds away metal faster than most grinders. Do the final grinding with a grinder to achieve a flat and well blended final surface.

[Jonlopes]

Originally Posted by Davidf

Looks like a thoroughly installed and strong bumper. Agreed, cut through welds. Personally, I like using an air cut off tool. Much easier to control than an angle grinder and it cuts through the weld much faster. I even use the cut off tool for rough grinding once the pieces are separated. Again, the air cut off tool grinds away metal faster than most grinders. Do the final grinding with a grinder to achieve a flat and well blended final surface.

I will give the air cut off tool a try. Can you recommend one that is low in the CFM consumption? I only have a 33 gallon 120V compressor so I cannot continuously power the tools that ask for high CFM.

[hugger6933]

You asked about a welding shop to remove it "properly", well they would just grind off the old welds as advised here and above. I would too use a die grinder but sometimes I forget that not everyone has a shop to work out of and is fully stacked with all tools that are needed for about any situation.[ I am blessed in that regard]. I think an electric angle grinder with either a 4 or 4 and 1/2 metal cutoff wheel would do fine if you have air problems. It will take several wheels to do this not matter what method you choose, just remember if using the electric angle grinder with the big blade, just don't turn the tool while using or the blade will break. Jim

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

You asked about a welding shop to remove it "properly", well they would just grind off the old welds as advised here and above. I would too use a die grinder but sometimes I forget that not everyone has a shop to work out of and is fully stacked with all tools that are needed for about any situation.[ I am blessed in that regard]. I think an electric angle grinder with either a 4 or 4 and 1/2 metal cutoff wheel would do fine if you have air problems. It will take several wheels to do this not matter what method you choose, just remember if using the electric angle grinder with the big blade, just don't turn the tool while using or the blade will break. Jim

If you go this route, be VERY careful. Electric motors have enormous torque. So, if you get a cut-off blade in a bind, you will either rip the tool out of your hand or probably break the blade. A broken blade can then do damage to you. Wear plenty of eye and face protection, wear heavy gloves and pray. For these reasons, I never use anything other than air powered cut-off tools. When the air power tool binds, it simply stops...no drama. I'm in construction, and have seen many people sent to the hospital (mainly for stiches) due to injuries caused by angle grinders fitted with cut-off wheels.

I don't think you will have much luck with your compressor.

[Jonlopes]

Originally Posted by Davidf

If you go this route, be VERY careful. Electric motors have enormous torque. So, if you get a cut-off blade in a bind, you will either rip the tool out of your hand or probably break the blade. A broken blade can then do damage to you. Wear plenty of eye and face protection, wear heavy gloves and pray. For these reasons, I never use anything other than air powered cut-off tools. When the air power tool binds, it simply stops...no drama. I'm in construction, and have seen many people sent to the hospital (mainly for stiches) due to injuries caused by angle grinders fitted with cut-off wheels.

I don't think you will have much luck with your compressor.

Thank you for the advice. What would you suggest then? My compressor runs my impact, ratchet, drill, die grinder and chisel just fine so i am not going to spend $1000 for the 220 volt model plus paying the electrician to add a 220v outlet to the garage all just for this bumper project.
Posted via Mobile Device

[michael bustamante]

and support that bumper!!

[Jonlopes]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

and support that bumper!!

Yeah, it is an impressive piece of steel. The scrap metal guy who comes through our neighborhood will be very happy.

[Orange Crate]

If/when you get the bumper off, you might offer it up for sale. There might be another member that could use a heavy duty unit like that. Of course you would have to become a contributing member to sell items on this forum. There is always the CL also.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

If/when you get the bumper off, you might offer it up for sale. There might be another member that could use a heavy duty unit like that. Of course you would have to become a contributing member to sell items on this forum. There is always the CL also.

What's the policy on giving stuff away? I don't do CL, but have given a lot of stuff I no longer need to other board members. Biggest thing was a longhorn camper, but lots of small stuff too. Don't want to pay for the privilege.

[Jonlopes]

Home Depot's brand of air tools (Husky) advertises just 4 cfm needed for their cut-off tool, my compressor can handle that (I think it is rated for 7) and if it cannot I can always return it.

[cericd]

I'll be watching this one. The PO of my truck did a similar thing minus the angle iron.

[Jonlopes]

Originally Posted by cericd

I'll be watching this one. The PO of my truck did a similar thing minus the angle iron.

Yeah for a work truck they did a great job. I could tow a house with this bumper with no fear of anything coming apart. This truck, however, has graduated from a worker to a garage queen. I will try to remember to take pictures of my progress and also give insights from a guy who has not had to grind welds in the past (except on exhaust pipes).

[swamp rat]

If it was me i'd take a cutting tourch and cut the bumper off at the brackets, then start cutting as much of the unneeded brackets and angles off next to get them out of the way, then i's use a 4" grinder with good cuttoff wheels ( not harbor freight crap ) to grind the welds off, keep a hammer and chisel secured in Vice Grips handy.

If ya don't have a tourch you can always rent one.

[GASoline71]

I'm betting that these big step bumpers aren't from a prior owner installing them. Most of those big step bumpers came on these rigs as dealer options or installed at RV dealerships when people hauled those behemoth slide in campers.

So they were installed to last for the life of the truck.

Mine has one too... I love the big ol' step bumpers. Especially when a long bed truck with a big bumper like that is walking a newer Camaro or Mustang...

Gary

[kbill45@gmail.com]

Post a picture of the bumper. If it is in good shape I will trade a new chrome one for it.

[Jonlopes]

Originally Posted by kbill45@gmail.com

Post a picture of the bumper. If it is in good shape I will trade a new chrome one for it.

It is not that pretty, I was just going to scrap it. If anyone wants it they can have it I just do not want to have to try to ship this heavy thing.

Also the top portion of the license plate is blocked by the tailgate, I am afraid I am going to be pulled over some day because of this.

[kbill45@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Jonlopes

It is not that pretty, I was just going to scrap it. If anyone wants it they can have it I just do not want to have to try to ship this heavy thing.

Also the top portion of the license plate is blocked by the tailgate, I am afraid I am going to be pulled over some day because of this.

I believe that bumper is for another truck.

[Jonlopes]

Originally Posted by kbill45@gmail.com

I believe that bumper is for another truck.

LOL, I believe the same thing, that is why I want it gone!

All joking aside, with the way the license plate mounts I think it was either mounted too high to clear the receiver or it is for something else.

[mcbassin]

If it was mine, I would just use my electric angle grinder to grind the weld then break it loose.
Be careful to only grind the weld and not your frame. You shouldn't have to pay a weld shop to cut those welds.

[leddzepp]

I'd use whatever tool I already had handy, electric grinder or air tool. Just use common sense, gloves, and safety goggles. It ain't rocket surgery.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Be VERY careful those brackets are lined up correctly when you bolt the bumper on. I bent mine long ago, likely because they weren't lined up, and therefore the faces on the mounts weren't flush with the bumper. As a result, there are two small spots that were pushed out to conform with the brackets.

That's one reason I'd like to confirm my bumper is OEM, as I'd like to have it straightened and re-chromed at some point. I believe it is OEM, because it was purchased decades ago after it had been re-chromed.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Be VERY careful those brackets are lined up correctly when you bolt the bumper on. I bent mine long ago, likely because they weren't lined up, and therefore the faces on the mounts weren't flush with the bumper. As a result, there are two small spots that were pushed out to conform with the brackets.

That's one reason I'd like to confirm my bumper is OEM, as I'd like to have it straightened and re-chromed at some point. I believe it is OEM, because it was purchased decades ago after it had been re-chromed.

I would add that you need to be careful of the aftermarket bumpers and brackets. Check out THIS (post 2222) in my thread. I ended up trying 2 different warped bumpers and the brackets ruined the first bumper.
The aftermarket bumpers are thinner and the steel is very soft too, so you want to use Loctite and be careful tightening your bolts.