LQQK Need suggestions Please

[jlipchit]

Ok for the last five years I have been putting aside what I thought would be the payment on a new suburban so that I could get/build my dream truck now as I look at my account I think my dream is about to happen and I have some questions to ask the experts so I can make my final plans and get rolling on my truck by December at the latest.

I would like to build a one of a Kind truck to suit my fancy this will be a 70/30 split mostly on-road and no real rock crawling or mud bogging, the whole project needs to be done at under the cost of a new suburban (Aprox 45,000) I have 30000 in cash and can get about 9 more off my credit card so I thing this will be enough. (I can sell my current truck for the rest if I need to)


First off I want to start out with a 1970’s barn door style suburban with a 454 engine and TH400 tranny.

Here are my questions and what I want to do feel free to smack me if this won’t work I am a computer tech not an engineer.

1. Gut it front to rear and sand blast all the paint off repair any rust dent dings scratches etc…
2. Full roll cage
3. Rhino liner the whole truck inside
4. Custom fab up diamond plate to cover the engine compartment firewall, sides and wheel wells
5. Box the frame
6. Convert it to 4 wheel disk brakes (with oversized rotors to stop big tires)
7. Convert it Cap discharge lighting
8. Install 4 nice seats (two front and 2 rear)
9. 502 ramjet or Diesel (Need suggestions on this one)
10. Six inches of lift and 37x12.50x18 tires (I think this will fit with out trimming let me know)
11. Bullet proof tranny (floor shift), transfer case, front diff and rear diff (Suggestions)
12. Roof top AC unit (from a RV shop) everyone knows suburban AC units don’t cool a truck this big
13. Custom Drive shafts with the right joints for the angles (Suggestions)
14. Carpet to just behind the rear seats from there the floor will be slats of white ash and black walnut with a Chevy bowtie routed into the wood.
15. Now for the fab work I want to build out tool boxes in the back behind the rear seats the right side will house a heater and a small generator, the left side will house 2 8dRV battery’s Both will have to be vented to the outside and insulated.
16. I want to build a custom console that will start between the front seats and come up to the top of the dash with room for three din sized openings and misc items (like the one on the Need VW 4x4 T something or other its called)
17. Diamond plate the inside sides and ceiling from the rear doors to the back or the rear seats.
18. Install 5 point harnesses
19. Somewhere under the truck or in the rear tool boxes if there is room I want an air tank and compressor.
20. Dual Exhaust Cat back?? Dual cats?? Or headers?? (Suggestions)
21. Dual winch with renuel (sp) bumpers I think 12k winches would do the job nicely.


Now for the hard parts I can do some of the work but I don’t have time or a place to do it at, so I need a name of shop or shops that can do the work and do it RIGHT in southern Washington or any where in Oregon. (Suggestions)

[jeffspower]

In my opinion:
#9- 502, great. Duramax, great but a big job on the electronics. 5.9 cummins, great if you get a non-electronic version for easy install. Also, the cummins with a nv4500 5-spd. trans & 205 t-case would be a pretty easy install. A 6.2 or 6.5d doesn't compare to a duramax or cummins in power or durability so I don't recommend it. Some guys might get xxx,xxx miles out of one once in a while, but for the most part, I have seen too many with the main bearing webbing blown out of them before 150,000 miles. A 6.9, 7.3 or powerstroke FURRD- 'nuff said. Ya just don't want furrd parts in your gm- do you?

#11- th400, sm465 4-spd or nv4500 5spd, np205, d60, 14 bolt ff.

#12- I think all those mtr. home roof units are 110ac so you would need a generator.

[jlipchit]

Thanks for the info as for the 120ac See number 15

I had a 1994 1/2 Burban with the turbo Diesel in it I got 178k before I sold it seemed to run pretty good to me but the wireing would be alot eaiser with a nice drop in ramjet hook up the fuel a few wires and vroom

Originally posted by jeffspower
In my opinion:
#9- 502, great. Duramax, great but a big job on the electronics. 5.9 cummins, great if you get a non-electronic version for easy install. Also, the cummins with a nv4500 5-spd. trans & 205 t-case would be a pretty easy install. A 6.2 or 6.5d doesn't compare to a duramax or cummins in power or durability so I don't recommend it. Some guys might get xxx,xxx miles out of one once in a while, but for the most part, I have seen too many with the main bearing webbing blown out of them before 150,000 miles. A 6.9, 7.3 or powerstroke FURRD- 'nuff said. Ya just don't want furrd parts in your gm- do you?

#11- th400, sm465 4-spd or nv4500 5spd, np205, d60, 14 bolt ff.

#12- I think all those mtr. home roof units are 110ac so you would need a generator.

[bouncytruck]

with a 502 & the big tires, you should run some 1 ton or bigger axels.

[jlipchit]

See Item number 11 but I am looking for suggestions on axels and who to get them from( Sure there is a Dana Dealer about 3 miles from my house but I need to know what to have him order.

Originally posted by bouncytruck
with a 502 & the big tires, you should run some 1 ton or bigger axels.

[1969 GMC]

sounds like one sweet burb!

20. Dual Exhaust Cat back?? Dual cats?? Or headers?? (Suggestions)

if you go with a 67-72 Burb, they did not have cats so you are in luck. i am not sure about 73 up, but if it were me, i wouldnt run cats if you dont have echeck (or live in Calif).

See Item number 11 but I am looking for suggestions on axels and who to get them from( Sure there is a Dana Dealer about 3 miles from my house but I need to know what to have him order.

hmm, getting brand new axles from a dana place could be expensive...but then again they are brand new (no headaches), and might come with a warranty. if that is the route you take, go with a dana 60 front, and either a 60 or 70 rear. a dana 70 is equivalent to the aforementioned 14 bolt ff.

[HeavyK20]

I'd go with a Dana 60 front end for sure and a Dana 70 or 80 on the rear. I think the 80 is a faily new model and you can probably buy one new. As for the 60 front and 70 rear, get some cores and have a reputable shop rebuild them.

[ckhd]

One thing to watch for... 67-72 4 wheel drives didn't come factory with a big block. Any that have big blocks underwent some sort of conversion, either someone stuffing a big-block in, or someone converting a 2 wheel drive... check the coversion job before you chunk down the cash. Most 4 wheel drive big block conversions have involved a meeting between a sledge hammer and the firewall.

[72C10chevy4x4]

if you went with the big block, wouldn't that mean using a carb setup? do you want an injector setup if rockcrawling, or do they make carb's that won't drain the gas when climbing?

since you've got a wad of cash to start off with, may be able to find a donor truck (i.e. one where the body was demolished from a wreck) and transfer the drivetrain over-which should hopefully have all of the electronics you'll need.

[69custom4x]

I've got a 93 suburban with rear air. If you could come across that setup and retrofit, that would get rid of the air conditioner and generator. It works great in my suburban and I've taken it to Phoenix on 110 degree days!

[jlipchit]

The 502 Ram Jet I want is pretty much turn key no other do'dads needed I am sure its efi but to be honest I didn't really look past the Very drool-able HP and torque figures

Originally posted by ckhd
One thing to watch for... 67-72 4 wheel drives didn't come factory with a big block. Any that have big blocks underwent some sort of conversion, either someone stuffing a big-block in, or someone converting a 2 wheel drive... check the coversion job before you chunk down the cash. Most 4 wheel drive big block conversions have involved a meeting between a sledge hammer and the firewall.

[Scrub]

Damn,
I think you are pulling my leg.

Go with the Dana 60 front.
Are you looking for an Auto or Manual tranny? For manual, I would go with an NV4500 and an NP205 case.

As far as who to get to do it, I think you are going to have to have more than one shop work on it. If you have it done in Washington state, they will charge you sales tax on the labor.

Sallee Chevy in Milton-Freewater is about the biggest Gm perfomance dealer around and I'm sure they know who is a good shop to deal with.
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Chev.../502pfefi.html

My buddy owns a Parts House here in Sisters Oregon and he knows everyone around, Plus he is really good with getting parts at great prices. His name is Chris at (541 549 8888) and he could tell you where to get the work done as he has some really nice projects. It might be cheaper in Central Oregon than Portland.

Look into the Fabco onboard generator. THey are really cool. It is a 200 amp alternator that gets excited off your 12 volt system and puts out 110 AC. They put out like 4000 watts and would run a small air compressor head like the contractors use on the pancake compressors or a small wirefeed welder.
http://www.fabcopower.com/fabhist/whois.htm

Have you thought about airbags? I went with a regular lift kit and helper bags. That way I can alter the ride, but the travel is limited to about 5 inches. That is probably enough. I thought about getting a coil spring rail setup and putting the really big bags off a semi on them for about 12 inches of travel, but it seems pretty radical (I guess it's radical, but trucks do use them every day)

Keep us informed about this project and Good Luck