47-55.1 Danforth Cross Member Install

[Coach529]

After weighing all my options, I have a Danforth Cross Member on the way. IMO it is the most cost efficient way to do a IFS in a AD truck while using the stock frame. Cost of the Cross Member is $500.00 plus freight.

There are some build threads on the interweb, but nothing yet I have seen from start to finish, and it took a lot of reading to find them.

I am planning on this install late fall, but have already started looking for donor parts.

The pictures below are some that I have saved from build threads and off Facebook.





The Cross Member is based on GM metric geometry, which is the 1978-1987 GM G-bodies, parts of the F bodies, and the S/T bodies which includes the S-10 and S-15.

[Coach529]

https://www.facebook.com/ADTruckBuilds

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=569491&page=6

[fine69]

Looks sweet. I will be looking for pictures of your upper A-arms installed.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by fine69

Looks sweet. I will be looking for pictures of your upper A-arms installed.

At this time I am not sure if I will notch to clear the uppers, or just run Tubular A Arms.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Danforth Crossmember? Okay, I'll say it: Never heard of them.

[ghettoluxury]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Danforth Crossmember? Okay, I'll say it: Never heard of them.

This kit was designed by Scott Danforth to use GM metric suspension on the 47-54 frames. He is an active member on Stove Bolt and The Hamb. He now builds them for others to use for a low dollar alternative to ifs / S10 swaps.

[ricott]

I'm sure you know it, but you can use the 2WD 98 and up Blazer steering knuckle/sealed bearing spindle/ and duel piston brakes on the G Body setup. These are really cheap in the salvage yards (just bought a complete set to upgrade the brakes on an S10. If you really want to go all out, you can use the 2WD blazer steering knuckle and sealed bearing, buy an $85 bracket, and bolt 5th generation Corvette brakes and rotors on the front. Love your build, looking forward to your upgrades.
Ricky

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by ricott

I'm sure you know it, but you can use the 2WD 98 and up Blazer steering knuckle/sealed bearing spindle/ and duel piston brakes on the G Body setup. These are really cheap in the salvage yards (just bought a complete set to upgrade the brakes on an S10. If you really want to go all out, you can use the 2WD blazer steering knuckle and sealed bearing, buy an $85 bracket, and bolt 5th generation Corvette brakes and rotors on the front. Love your build, looking forward to your upgrades.
Ricky

Great info.....I will have to do some digging. Finding a 2WD Blazer up here is going to be tough.

[Coach529]

http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/...1096035&page=1

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Coach529

Great info.....I will have to do some digging. Finding a 2WD Blazer up here is going to be tough.

Yep, When you get outside of Southern California or the Phoenix area or maybe south Texas two wheel drive Blazers of any year are pretty well non existent in any year model or series. Show up with a lowered one and the 4X4 brigade in town is ready to fight because you "destroyed" a Blazer.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Danforth Crossmember? Okay, I'll say it: Never heard of them.

You have to kinda dig to find info. He does not advertise at all.

[T Hilde]

Could you notch the bottom of the frame to raise the cross member and eliminate the need to notch for a arm clearance?

[racer357]

raising/ notching the cross member into the frame lowers the truck even more, it's discussed in the thread on stove bolt. Seem like the hard way when you can buy dropped springs and spindles or easily use air bags, but Mr. Danforth notched a frame to accomplish it.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by T Hilde

Could you notch the bottom of the frame to raise the cross member and eliminate the need to notch for a arm clearance?

The location of the cross member determines ride height. My desired ride height is pretty much the same as I am running now. Scott suggests a 1-1/2" bottom notch and 2" drop spindles for me to achieve this. Once I get it mocked up I will see if I need to notch the frame to clear the stock upper A Arms.

The top notch is still avoidable with a tubular upper A arm, which are pretty affordable.

http://www.ubmachine.com/uppermetric.html

[Coach529]

Random Notes:

Donors-


Any 1982-2004 S-10, S-15, T-10, T-15, S-10 Blaser, Sonoma, Hombre, Bravada, Jimmy, Cyclone, Typhon, etc. Technically GMT-325 and GMT-330 chassis

These are the same stampings as any A/G body which is any 1978-1987 Malibu, Regal, Monte Carlo, Cutlass, El Camino, Gran National, etc.

[Coach529]

Rack and Pinion:

"the 1993-1997 Camaro or Firebird. in 1998, they changed the angle of the pinion and it hits the frame. simply cut off 4-1/8" off the inner tie rod ends and rethread.

however if you desire, a ford exploder or dodge durango/dakota rack and pinion can be used as well."

"The 87 Tbird rack I used goes stop to stop on stock S10 spindles. I haven't driven it yet but i'm expecting a turn radius about the same as a long bed S10"

[T Hilde]

I guess it would have been better to say "I should have done this" instead of giving up on that unit in my truck.

[racer357]

So you have a Danforth member and decided not to use it?

[T Hilde]

Had one, installed it, got cheesed off because the steering wasn't completely developed and traded the chassis away to do a dakota swap.

[racer357]

Right on. I am in the process of ordering one, if you had one to get rid of I was ready to drive north! LOL!

I will post photos of mine going together.

[dwcsr]

The 87 Tbird I used came up a bit short on turning once we have this on the ground and actually driving it was about 3/4" from the stop ,not bad Its just not where I want it. I have a 97/98 Mark Viii rack on the way that turns 6.88" lock to lock and should take care of that issue. The Tbird rack was 5.33" lock to lock. I believe it has the same mountings. I'll post what I find out when I get it

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

The 87 Tbird I used came up a bit short on turning once we have this on the ground and actually driving it was about 3/4" from the stop ,not bad Its just not where I want it. I have a 97/98 Mark Viii rack on the way that turns 6.88" lock to lock and should take care of that issue. The Tbird rack was 5.33" lock to lock. I believe it has the same mountings. I'll post what I find out when I get it

That is good info to know. Do you have a resource that tells you the specs of the rack and pinion?

I am pulling parts from a 1995 Thunderbird (same as 1995 Mark Series) and have access to that rack.

[racer357]

I am going to use a Sweet power servo rack in mine from stock car racing.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by racer357

I am going to use a Sweet power servo rack in mine from stock car racing.

How much do those run?

[racer357]

Used ones run from 225 -600.00. I am Indiana, so they are plentiful.


Latemodels and Modifieds are everywhere here