Eaton HO-52, Need a little advice

[Sklptrljay]

So I bought a trailer made from a Longhorn bed a couple weeks back. It has an Eaton HO-52.

The guy I bought it from removed the guts and axles. According to him it was leaking from the seals and was not roadworthy, so I trailered my trailer home! I got it for $200, it's really well built, has new tires, and a diamond plate tool box, so I didn't concern myself too much with the rear end issue.

Now I need to get it on the road and have a question. If the guts are removed will everything still be lubricated inside? If it's empty so to speak, obviously the friction would be much less. But will a lack of oil flow without the gears be a killer to the bearings?

I still have the guts (though they look like they've been sitting out for a while), and he said he cut the axles.

So, is it screwed for good? I would have no problem swapping a different rear end in if needed. Even a 5 or 6 lug if I had to, but I hope this one can be saved.

I looked and don't see any 8 lug ones locally. Since I have good wheels and tires it would be nice to keep it the same.

[Bigdav160]

If the axles have been removed then the "guts" can't turn.

The drums are floating on bearings that could be greased (like the front wheel bearings) and be fine.

[special-K]

Yep, that's what I was going to say. Full-floating rears ride on a spindle, just like the front. What seals could have rendered the rear not road worthy? Those would be getting replaced once he burned the wheel bearings up and had a big bill repair I guess he chucked those great parts, too

[Sklptrljay]

So, if I'm understanding you guys correctly, if I replace the bearings and just fill the rearend with gear oil it should be okay? No need for the internal parts?
I have a box of the parts he took out. If I don't need them and someone else does, I'd be happy to give them away.

[kwmech]

You shouldn't have to waste a gallon of gear oil if the wheel bearing have been greased and the shafts cut. When you roll the trailer by hand can you see the pinion yoke turn?

[Sklptrljay]

Originally Posted by kwmech

You shouldn't have to waste a gallon of gear oil if the wheel bearing have been greased and the shafts cut. When you roll the trailer by hand can you see the pinion yoke turn?

There is no yoke to be turned. There is a flat plate on the side of the pumpkin facing where the cab would be. Here are some pictures.

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[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by Sklptrljay

So, if I'm understanding you guys correctly, if I replace the bearings and just fill the rearend with gear oil it should be okay? No need for the internal parts?
I have a box of the parts he took out. If I don't need them and someone else does, I'd be happy to give them away.

If there's no axles in it Id skip the gear oil all together, and just pack the hub bearings full of wheel bearing grease and throw new seals on it and your good to go.

[Sklptrljay]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

If there's no axles in it Id skip the gear oil all together, and just pack the hub bearings full of wheel bearing grease and throw new seals on it and your good to go.

Cool!

I was hoping that would work, I've never messed with this type of rear end before.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by Sklptrljay

So, if I'm understanding you guys correctly, if I replace the bearings and just fill the rearend with gear oil it should be okay? No need for the internal parts?
I have a box of the parts he took out. If I don't need them and someone else does, I'd be happy to give them away.

You misunderstood us. We are saying pack the bearings with grease, just like the front.

[Sklptrljay]

Originally Posted by special-K

You misunderstood us. We are saying pack the bearings with grease, just like the front.

I got ya, when I said replace I was including all that would go with that, which includes repacking them.

I was more focused on whether I needed any internals or not.

I got the hub off and got a look at everything, but I had to stop right there to go to work tonight. It definitely makes more sense now that I've seen how it goes together.

Nice to have a cool board member like Ol' Blue K20 to help me out too.

Really appreciate everyone's input.

[Ol Blue K20]

PM me if you have questions, I'm close enough to come over and help if you want.

[Sklptrljay]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

PM me if you have questions, I'm close enough to come over and help if you want.

Thanks!

I'm going to try to crack it open this afternoon, I'll let you know if I have any questions.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Sklptrljay

Thanks!

I'm going to try to crack it open this afternoon, I'll let you know if I have any questions.

10-4, just let me know. Sent you a pm with my number to speed up any communications needed.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

That rear cover is on upside down. If you tried to fill it with gear lube it will be way over full.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

That rear cover is on upside down. If you tried to fill it with gear lube it will be way over full.

If you have a trailer like this with no gears but good bearings and seals, turning the cover upside down is a good idea, you can get just enough gear lube in there to always keep lube on the bearings. I've done it and it works good.

[Sklptrljay]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

If you have a trailer like this with no gears but good bearings and seals, turning the cover upside down is a good idea, you can get just enough gear lube in there to always keep lube on the bearings. I've done it and it works good.

Good idea....probably the only kind you have, right?!!

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Sklptrljay

Good idea....probably the only kind you have, right?!!

Yes, I've been fortunate all mine have had good bearings and seals so far. 2 of these are Dana 60's though.

[Sklptrljay]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Yes, I've been fortunate all mine have had good bearings and seals so far. 2 of these are Dana 60's though.

Okay, now you're just showing off!!

[special-K]

Yeah, since the third member is gone the axle is just like having a solid beam trailer axle with spindles at both ends. No need to concern yourslf with any moving parts but the wheel bearings.

I'd have to consider using that bed on a truck or selling it. A good Longhorn bed is a pretty tough find. Someone would pay decent money for that. I know it's a cool trailer, but that's what I would do

[Sklptrljay]

Originally Posted by special-K

Yeah, since the third member is gone the axle is just like having a solid beam trailer axle with spindles at both ends. No need to concern yourslf with any moving parts but the wheel bearings.

I'd have to consider using that bed on a truck or selling it. A good Longhorn bed is a pretty tough find. Someone would pay decent money for that. I know it's a cool trailer, but that's what I would do

It's not as nice as the picture makes it look. It's pretty rough. If someone really wanted it though, I would probably trade for a better longbed.

[special-K]

I have to admit, being a Longhorn bed gives it major cool factor. It's your to do as you wish. I had just noticed it was a Longhorn, I had been focused on the axle. The next time you go to grease it you'll see if the brake parts are in there. If they are they are serving no purpose and are also sought after (by people like me ). You sure did good on that. That tool box probably cost a couple hundred new. Got the black nugget wheels to boot!

[Sklptrljay]

So I was delayed a bit in getting to this job because of a home improvement problem (I hate plumbing!!).

Anyways....i've got one of the hubs off and apart except for the outer bearing. What is the best way to remove that bearing? A press? Is there a more homemade way to do it?

[special-K]

The outer bearing pretty much falls out once the nut and plate are removed. Do you mean the race?
I lay a wide block of wood on the ground (or bench), then two pieces of wood leaving space between for the race to drop through. Set the hub outer face down and grab a longer drift punch. With aall grese removed you can see, or just feel with the punch, the litttle lip of the backside of the race. It will be the farthest step-out near the bottom looking through. Put the punch on good and solid and as vertical as possible. Smack it with a hammer once, move around the clock a 1/4 or so, repeat, and continue around only hitting once st each position. You will hear and feel when it breaks loose. Just keep following around hitting as you go till it drops. Use your feel and judgment to not move it too much in one position so as to not bind. You tap it back in the same way. Going in is more critical with caution requires not to let punch slip off lip and damage bearing surface.
The inner is the same way but goes out the back side (inner) and the seal will drop out first

[Sklptrljay]

I'm talking about the smaller bearing closest to the where the axle bolts on. If the bearing is supposed to just fall out then mine is definitely stuck. I removed the retainer clip, but the bearing hasn't budged.

[Bigdav160]

You have to drive the bearing and race out.