What is the advantage of the "internally regulated alternator?"

[In The Ten Ring]

So my 1972 truck is stock in the engine bay. I was thinking about replacing the wiring since my wire gutter is now stiff and cracked. What are the advantages/disadvantages of going to an internally regulated alternator?

[summitflier]

You just don't have to have an external voltage regulator.
I don't even know about the original late 60s - early 70s alternators, but it seems almost
all of the newer alternators have internal regulators.

[Mike C]

The external regulator is a mechanical device. The internal regulator is a solid state device. Higher outputs and more consistent voltages are both benefits. It also can simplify the wiring if you go to the trouble of completely removing the external wiring. But the easy way to go is plug and play conversion harnesses.

IMO, this is a GREAT low-buck mod that should be undertaken on any of these old trucks. Go with the 64 amp 10si if you don't want to have to replace the heavy gauge wiring in the harness to the regulator then across the radiator support to the battery.
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[mike16]

Originally Posted by Mike C

The external regulator is a mechanical device. The internal regulator is a solid state device. Higher outputs and more consistent voltages are both benefits. It also can simplify the wiring if you go to the trouble of completely removing the external wiring. But the easy way to go is plug and play conversion harnesses.

IMO, this is a GREAT low-buck mod that should be undertaken on any of these old trucks. Go with the 64 amp 10si if you don't want to have to replace the heavy gauge wiring in the harness to the regulator then across the radiator support to the battery.
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some of the replacement regulators are also solid state devices and offer the same benifits.

essentialy, the reduction in wireing in the engine compartment is seen as a plus.

[Already Gone]

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[Mike C]

True on the solidstate regulator, but they are more expensive than a 10si usually and most external regulated alternators are only 45 amps.

This is a win either way you do it IMO.

[RichardJ]

Original replacement regulators with mechanical relays inside cost $50 - $80. Solid state replacement regulators can be had for $20. Solid state regulators are very good, can be identified by very light weigh and do not have resistors on the bottom.

Reduction in wiring in the engine compartment sounds good on paper, but show me 100 trucks that have been converted and I'll show you 85 hacked up wiring harnesses with cut, taped up wire hanging all over. Buying a plug and play conversion only adds to the clutter, but it does offer a near 100% chance of success without the hassles many experience.

Automotive electrical is one of the least understood systems by most '60s vehicle owners, yet it is the first thing they want to or get talked into thinking needs changed.

If your alternator works and by that I mean does it charge your battery, if so then spend your time and money on something the truck really needs.

AC, HEI, two electric fans, stereo, trailer brakes and external regulated alternator

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

Original replacement regulators with mechanical relays inside cost $50 - $80. Solid state replacement regulators can be had for $20. Solid state regulators are very good, can be identified by very light weigh and do not have resistors on the bottom.

Reduction in wiring in the engine compartment sounds good on paper, but show me 100 trucks that have been converted and I'll show you 85 hacked up wiring harnesses with cut, taped up wire hanging all over. Buying a plug and play conversion only adds to the clutter, but it does offer a near 100% chance of success without the hassles many experience.

Automotive electrical is one of the least understood systems by most '60s vehicle owners, yet it is the first thing they want to or get talked into thinking needs changed.

If your alternator works and by that I mean does it charge your battery, if so then spend your time and money on something the truck really needs.

AC, HEI, two electric fans, stereo, trailer brakes and external regulated alternator

So in other words, "keep what the truck came with, for now?"

[franken]

The OP should probably read up on the various options rather than opinions. There is no right answer.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by franken

The OP should probably read up on the various options rather than opinions. There is no right answer.

I value first-hand experience (opinions) from this site far above reading a list of options.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

I value first-hand experience (opinions) from this site far above reading a list of options.

Well, you've heard everyone should do it and original works just fine. So what'r ya gonna do? Change it back and forth? These trucks were built just fine and the fact that yours has made it all these years with things they way they've been proves it. You can go and change about anything on these trucks because everybody else does, or you can just drive it like those who came before did. Don't feel like you "have to" change anything. Sit down, think out the entire truck, write it all down, and choose a route with the end result in mind. If you can't do that, then spend time studying before starting into it. It's all out there and you just have to decide what you want. Not sure why you need to rewire just because the wire gutter is stiff and cracked. Why not just replace that?

The advantage to me of the internal regulator is it eliminates the question if it's the voltage regulator or the alternator. Both get replaced together. You never know if a bad alternator hurt the voltage regulator or vice versa. The same when a battery goes bad

[jhwkns]

I've never had any problems with the original system other than normal wear and tear. Also my externally regulated alternator has a lifetime warranty. I'll never need to buy another one, so why change?

[Jason Banks]

I replaced the front wiring harness in TWO trucks.

On one...which was slightly hot rodded....zz4 engine, I upgraded everything I could. Think HEI, better bulbs, better mechanical stuff but still stock looking. I ordered the harness with the internally regulated alternator.

On the other. Stock Stock Stock....Cheyenne Super 402bb Three on the Tree

On the one I have now...I want to replace the harness and would probably go for the internally regulated harness again, because it's a driver. It is easier to service and I can get an alternator just about anywhere.

I will add, with that new front harness and a new alternator, your lights will shine like never before.

[leddzepp]

My 68 has the original setup and wiring still in place. It works just fine so I see no need to change it.

[Redline novdog]

I'll throw my $.02 in. I tried to rebuild a factory diode tree alternater(mater) on my '70 nova never worked.I took a internal apart from the '70s-'80's ( you used to be able to find these on the curb) powdercoated it put in a one wire kit from Jegs/Summit and changed the wiring on the external relay( have to do this). Works great!!!The original alternater on the '67 had the battery post fry on it.I went to Autozone bought a rebuilt.Still rollin' 2yrs. Like has been stated previously.Do what is best for your build/driver/budget. If you go to a different alternater make sure it will bolt up!!!

[dirtyjim]

with me the advantage was 100+ amp alternators on the shelf at just about any parts house in the nation. I was gathering parts for a serpentine conversion when my alternator went out, so all I had to do was change out the parts and modify the harness. the original wiring was removed from the firewall bulkhead and replaced. having the correct Packard terminals and crimpers helps in this area.

I did have the regulator in my 72 that I had in high school short out and fry the harness

[RichardJ]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=677040

A new thread, showing the typical conversion and probably the main reason I try to encourage guys not to buy into the "internal regulated Alt is better", hype.

Someone please, please explain to me how this very typical conversion, improves and eliminates any wires.

No disrespect to the Poster and owner of this truck. This is all on the previous owner.

The typical rebuilt external regulated Alternator sold by most flaps today, is listed as having 50 or 60Amps.
95% of these old trucks don't need anything close to that much.

[vdawg]

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

[bMr]

+ 1 on Mad Electrical. To the OP, read http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml and then call Mark and explain your concerns, he will shoot you straight.

[Jurassic-1]

I have a wire adapter set from Brothers in my two trucks. This allows me to run the integrated alternators. It plugs where the regulator goes which allows the old regulator to stay in its place and adapts the plug to the rectangular plug. This is good because you get the benefit of more amps without cutting or changing existing harness and you can quickly change back by unplugging it in an emergency where you may not be able to get a replacement in a pinch. I paid $20.00 for the kit.

[MARKDTN]

If it is working leave it alone. When the regulator fails I would replace with solid state regulator (use a Ford one) or just go to the internal regulator alternator because it may not be far behind. If the alternator fails, I would change to internal regulator style. If you add a bunch of power using items like fans or big amps then I would change to an internal type. The SI types are OK, but the CS144 is even better than the SI type. The CS130 is not even a good paperweight IMHO. Any of them are going to require wiring and/or adapters. Also if you go much past 75A or so, you should add a dedicated wire from battery to output because the stock wiring may not handle all the power it can put out. Finally, you should supply all high power accessories straight off the battery for the same reason.

[summitflier]

50 or 60 amps may be enough for "some" of these trucks.
I have a 120amp alternator. It came with my motor (hey it's chrome, and we all know chrome adds horsepower, right?)
Since I've got my truck, I have added quite a bit of stuff. Halogen headlight conversion. High-output stereo. High-output heater blower motor. Electric windows. HEI ignition. Electric radiator fans. An under-hood engine light, a bed lamp, Most of this stuff isn't really that unusual. In some cases upgrades use less juice (I'm considering the LED tail-light conversion). My Stereo has a USB charging port, it also has bluetooth. The thing is.. some of these trucks DO use more juice than they did back in the 60s and 70s. Alternators require horsepower to turn, some high output alternators, even more than the stock alternators. I agree more isn't always better, but in this case, having more doesn't really hurt anything (except your wallet).