Fuel Lines

[OlSmokey]

Hey guys so i have a 72' c10 with a 350, what's the best fuel line? right now i have rubber lines, or a type of rubber lines, and someone said that "that's the best way to burn a truck to the ground" are they right? and if they are what is the best kind of fuel line that'll fit right on without much finagling? thanks guys!

[Lattimer]

Standard rubber line from the parts store isn't good with the ethanol in fuels today. You can buy good rubber line that will last a long time, but its pricey. The factory uses small rubber pieces to connect steel tubing for the fuel lines, and that is what most people prefer. In particular where the fuel line goes from the fuel pump to the carb, you don't want rubber laying in the engine heat.

I did my entire fuel system with AN fittings and expensive synthetic rubber hose that is designed for ethanol. I ran the hose way from he engine to my regulator on the wheel well, so it doesn't lay on the engine. I got everything from Earl's via Jegs. I think to do from the tank to the carb cost me about $400.

[GRX]

Personally, I prefer little rubber as possible. Need one between frame and engine to absorb movement & vibration of course. Never EVER run rubber fuel hoses over exhaust manifolds. Be absolutely sure the steel line ends are flared to keep the hose from slipping off. Spring band clamps are preferable to worm gear types.

[cooperhw]

I prefer the high pressure plastic type line that Dorman makes and sells at O'Reilly's. Probably others. It comes in a 20' roll, will handle high fuel pump pressures (modern fuel injected no problem), and it's easy to route. Just have to install clamps "often" to keep it from moving/chafing. Then go to ACE or another and get barb to M.I.P. fittings and good to go. Did my whole Chevelle including fuel regulator/filter to my LS motor for less than $100.

[In The Ten Ring]

I made my own fuel lines using a cheap tube bender from ebay and (lots) of Poly Armor tubing from NAPA. It took "lots" for me since I couldn't get it just right.

When I later built a work bench and got off the floor, it was pretty easy to bend it the way I needed (bending on the floor wasn't easy).

I bought a flare kit from Sears (Craftsman) and with my bench vise, bubble flaring the ends was a breeze. I bought a pre-bent stainless line for over the engine but I don't think it will line up with my carb. I'll just make my own using my flare kit (does double flares too) and bender.

So, take off your old lines, mimic those with new line, and just trial and error it. The hardest part was the 3/8" line from the tank through the cab floor, but I got it right on the 3rd try.

I bought a brass 3/8" to 5/16" transition fitting from Summit Parts to join the in cab line to the under frame line. I put it all together with rubber fuel line from NAPA and Advance Auto, there is less than 6" TOTAL of rubber fuel lines the whole way now.

If you need any help, drop me a PM and I'll hit you with my phone number.

*I reused my vent lines (1972 truck with EEC) after washing those out with Krud Kutter phosphoric acid.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by OlSmokey

Hey guys so i have a 72' c10 with a 350, what's the best fuel line? right now i have rubber lines, or a type of rubber lines, and someone said that "that's the best way to burn a truck to the ground" are they right? and if they are what is the best kind of fuel line that'll fit right on without much finagling? thanks guys!

Now you CAN buy prebent lines but those won't match up 100%......just make your own. It's easier than it looks! I did a ton of research, youtube vids, asking on here, and most of my fears were unfounded. Like I said, drop me a PM, I have no problem talking with new people over the phone.

[OlSmokey]

Thank you all for your reply's! I really appreciate all of them!

[GRX]

Good posts Ten ring.
I would only add a little trick. Take off the old line and run a length of string along it while carefully following all the bends. Now straighten the string and measure it. You now have the total length you need of straight line before it's bent.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by GRX

Good posts Ten ring.
I would only add a little trick. Take off the old line and run a length of string along it while carefully following all the bends. Now straighten the string and measure it. You now have the total length you need of straight line before it's bent.

I tried that and still came up with too short of a new line! I ended up starting out with a much longer piece than I'd possibly need, and then cutting off the excess when done. I mostly followed the contours of the old line but simplified the new one to some extent. My old supply line had a big bend in the end (at the pump). I could not copy that with my bender as it would kink the bend. The new contour did away with that bend so there should be much less turbulence in the new line.

[OlSmokey]

Again thank you for the replys, but I guess I should have been more specific. haha I meant from the pump to the carb, from the tank to the pump is good and all metal, but the line from the pump to the carb is rubber, the closest it gets to the manifold is probably 4-6 inches, I don't know i just want to change it just to ensure nothing burns...but thank you all!

[In The Ten Ring]

Hahaha. Oh ya, we are CRAZY detailed around here! LOL

I'd still make my own. Here is exactly what I bought.

Craftsman Double Flare kit. (www.sears.com)

Poly Armor tubing (NAPA store)

Rigid tubing cutter (amazon.com)

Put the fitting on BEFORE you flare your ends. Seriously, make your own and saver yourself the hassle.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Mine ended up being exactly the same length as the longest piece of brake line they sell at the parts store. 6 feet I believe.

[OlSmokey]

thanks in the ten ring! I'll definitely send you a PM if i run into any problems!

[jtinpdx]

Would someone mind posting a pic of hand made fuel lines from pump to carb that includes regulator and pressure gauge?

Thanks,
Jeff

[kingstrider]

I bent my own steel line in about an hour. Total cost was about $10.

[mike16]

Pretty sure at this time that "fuel' lines are compatable with current fuel. fuel lines should not sit on the shelf for more than two years. Most turn over every 3 to 6 months. So anything not compatable with alcohol fuel mixtures has been rotated through the supply system by now.

fuel lines are marked with the date of manufacture in units of a quarter and the year, so a fuel line marked 2-15 would have been manufacured bettween april and june of 2015.

Old dry rotted ones are the real fire hazzard

ANY fuel line should be replaced every 2 years

Yes even the stainles flex lines....two years. pretty does not count.

a good choice for replacement are the 50 psi plus hoses typically used in Fuel injection systems.

yes, more expensive.but we just talked about burning your truck down

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by mike16

Pretty sure at this time that "fuel' lines are compatable with current fuel. fuel lines should not sit on the shelf for more than two years. Most turn over every 3 to 6 months. So anything not compatable with alcohol fuel mixtures has been rotated through the supply system by now.

fuel lines are marked with the date of manufacture in units of a quarter and the year, so a fuel line marked 2-15 would have been manufacured bettween april and june of 2015.

Old dry rotted ones are the real fire hazzard

ANY fuel line should be replaced every 2 years

Yes even the stainles flex lines....two years. pretty does not count.

a good choice for replacement are the 50 psi plus hoses typically used in Fuel injection systems.

yes, more expensive.but we just talked about burning your truck down

[mike16]

Originally Posted by EARNHARDT#3

what is smoking is the burned up remains of a truck

nobody must or needs to take my advice

but in aviation industry its the standard.

take it or leave it but dont tell me I'm wrong.

and its not about your opinion its about safety

[leftybass209]

Rubber fuel lines should be checked every couple years. I think Aeroquip recommends replacement between 5-10 years for their stuff. Everyone goes overboard with the whole, "your truck will burn to the ground" thing. No, it's not ideal to use rubber, no, I wouldn't use it, and runs longer than a few inches to connect two hard lines aren't recommended by any professional affiliated in the automotive industries.

Do it once, do it right, and enjoy your truck for years without unnecessary maintenance. If you're skills aren't good with bending hard line, it's cheap enough to buy some and practice. If you get good enough friends may want it done, and you can easily recoup your paltry investment in hard Aeroquip

[mike16]

Originally Posted by leftybass209

Rubber fuel lines should be checked every couple years. I think Aeroquip recommends replacement between 5-10 years for their stuff. Everyone goes overboard with the whole, "your truck will burn to the ground" thing. No, it's not ideal to use rubber, no, I wouldn't use it, and runs longer than a few inches to connect two hard lines aren't recommended by any professional affiliated in the automotive industries.

Do it once, do it right, and enjoy your truck for years without unnecessary maintenance. If you're skills aren't good with bending hard line, it's cheap enough to buy some and practice. If you get good enough friends may want it done, and you can easily recoup your paltry investment in hard Aeroquip

have you ever had one of your vehicles burn to the ground, or seen one burn down along the high way to a show or burn down at a show?

Ought not to be too critical of others unless you been there and clearly...you have not. Going overboard?

rubber that is compatable with the fuel is ok to use. It does need to be inspected. the problem is that the line fails on the inside too and some times faster than it appears on the out side. ditto for stainless braided lines.

Do it once? no. do it as often as nessesssarry to ensure your vehicle does not burn down. And if your vehicle burns down and causes other damage, your liable for that expense too.

How does Aeroquip know the circumstances or the envirionment under which your hose is working.

I say this because Its happened to me and I seen it happen to others. Quit some time ago there was an article about this very issue in POCI monthly magazine. You go ahead and take the risk but dont pass on that as good advice to others.Plattitudes and mantra's dont put the fire out. Might want to keep your good advice to your self. Nobody wants to loose thier vehicle to a fire. there's no up side.

replace them every two years.

nuff said here. shall I bring some marshmellows?

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by mike16

what is smoking is the burned up remains of a truck

nobody must or needs to take my advice

but in aviation industry its the standard.

take it or leave it but dont tell me I'm wrong.

and its not about your opinion its about safety

The 45 year old rubber fuel hose was just recently replaced on my truck. And guess why...because the steel line rusted out so I replaced everything.

[engineer_gregh]

I went this route with my big block. Check Jegs for the small block application.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/8124/10002/-1

[LostMy65]

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...ce-fuel-hoses/

[In The Ten Ring]

After reading how this thread took an "offended" turn I don't feel so bad for that speed-related exchange the other day with a member regarding how fast I like to go.

So, did the OP ever get the new fuel line made?

I'm going to have to redo part of my hard line as I put in a fuel shutoff valve but I put it too far down to get my hands on while sitting in the truck! Way to go me.

[midniteblues]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

After reading how this thread took an "offended" turn I don't feel so bad for that speed-related exchange the other day with a member regarding how fast I like to go.

So, did the OP ever get the new fuel line made?

I'm going to have to redo part of my hard line as I put in a fuel shutoff valve but I put it too far down to get my hands on while sitting in the truck! Way to go me.

Why don't ya just make a longer handle for the valve.
Or perhaps a choke/push/pull cable. You could mount that anywhere convenient.
That valve you installed was a good idea for theft prevention.