can't get u-joint out of yoke / off rear drive shaft!

[centuryhouse]

Is there a trick to this? I did this 20 years ago on a Mustang and it was easy. What gives??

I have removed the rear drive shaft on my 72 GMC pickup. I am trying to replace the u-joint mating the slip yoke to the rear shaft. I have removed 4 outer clips that retained the u-joint.

I used penetrating oil. I tried using a socket and hammering the u-joint out. I tried a c-clamp on it. It hasn't moved even the smallest bit.

[kingsolver72]

Put the drive shaft in a vise. Get a large punch and a 5lb hammer.
Maybe a little heat also.

[Taibo]

Originally Posted by centuryhouse

Is there a trick to this? I did this 20 years ago on a Mustang and it was easy. What gives??

I have removed the rear drive shaft on my 72 GMC pickup. I am trying to replace the u-joint mating the slip yoke to the rear shaft. I have removed 4 outer clips that retained the u-joint.

I used penetrating oil. I tried using a socket and hammering the u-joint out. I tried a c-clamp on it. It hasn't moved even the smallest bit.

Once the clips are out, a shop press is used to press one side INTO the the yoke, forcing the cap on the opposite side out so it can be removed, then just flip it over and repeat the process. Yours appear to have been attacked by a very large Hominid swinging a huge BFH, judging from the bashed up yoke. I am not sure that even using a press would allow you to change that joint now. If it were mine I would take it to a driveshaft shop and have the entire end of the shaft replaced.

[centuryhouse]

Originally Posted by Taibo

Once the clips are out, a shop press is used to press one side INTO the the yoke, forcing the cap on the opposite side out so it can be removed, then just flip it over and repeat the process. Yours appear to have been attacked by a very large Hominid swinging a huge BFH, judging from the bashed up yoke. I am not sure that even using a press would allow you to change that joint now. If it were mine I would take it to a driveshaft shop and have the entire end of the shaft replaced.

I have a new yoke, ready to put on IF I can get the u-joint out.

Then once I have the car driveable, I was planning on taking it to a DS shop to have them fix up the shaft itself. I could have them do both, but as I've done it before I didn't think it'd be too hard.

I don't have a vice. If I wait 10 days for payday, I could buy one. I was hoping not to let the car sit another 10 days.

ETA: I also used a torch seeing if that would free it up. It didn't.

[kwmech]

Just Take all the pieces to the DL shop and have it all done at the same time

[centuryhouse]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Just Take all the pieces to the DL shop and have it all done at the same time

I think that is the answer.

Their attitude was so poor (extremely rude and condescending) when I talked to them on the phone that I was hoping to just do this myself and limp by with it. The other DS shop in the area couldn't be bothered to speak English to me, and I couldn't communicate to them what I needed.

But I guess I'll go to the shop with the attitude and see if they can do it without being jerks.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Just Take all the pieces to the DL shop and have it all done at the same time

This ^^^

After reading countless threads on here concerning driveshafts, in the end, this is the best route. I have a slight vibration in my 72, removed the driveshaft yesterday and took it to the shop.

[jayoldschool]

Use a u joint/ball joint press.



You could do it with a big C clamp and two sockets (one to push in, one to let the opposite cup push out).

[brad_man_72]

I wouldn't use a press, you could collapse a yoke. Vice will hurt/bend the shaft if you do it wrong. There's no way for a shop to give you an estimate over the phone, it sounds like you have some messed up parts, they don't know what might need to be replaced besides the ujoints and having the shaft balanced as an assembly.

Just take it to the shop. They can keep you from wasting time and money on a shaft that is in bad condition.

[Jason Banks]

What shops did you talk to? Mine looked alot like yours. See where it looks like the yoke is dented from hitting the ground? That's what mine looked like when I pulled it after I ordered parts to fix it. I knew it wasn't going to be able to get it apart. I took it to the shop (Collin County Driveshaft...or something) on 380.

They used a sander or grinder or something to make the hole where the cap needed to come out round again. Maybe you want to try a Dremel with one of those little round sanding drums...

[centuryhouse]

Update:

I took the rear shaft & parts to Drive Shaft King (Beckley Ave. in Dallas) during my lunch break.

They used a grinder to cut the u-joint into pieces, then hammered out the ends. They then opted to use their u-joint (not my O-Reilly part that I had with me) and installed it and the new Spicer yoke I had.

Total cost: $20 Total time: 15 minutes

That's pretty amazing, considering I will get a $20 refund from the O'Reilly u-joint I had, which the shop said was garbage.

Since the new yoke is 3" longer, it will engage the rest of the spline and should not slip off again (which was the original problem). I will put that back on the truck, and then drive it to the shop and let them assess & rework/balance both shafts as needed.

[boraxman]

^^^^^Great - love it when things go good!

[Taibo]

Originally Posted by centuryhouse

Update:

I took the rear shaft & parts to Drive Shaft King (Beckley Ave. in Dallas) during my lunch break.

They used a grinder to cut the u-joint into pieces, then hammered out the ends. They then opted to use their u-joint (not my O-Reilly part that I had with me) and installed it and the new Spicer yoke I had.

Total cost: $20 Total time: 15 minutes

That's pretty amazing, considering I will get a $20 refund from the O'Reilly u-joint I had, which the shop said was garbage.

Since the new yoke is 3" longer, it will engage the rest of the spline and should not slip off again (which was the original problem). I will put that back on the truck, and then drive it to the shop and let them assess & rework/balance both shafts as needed.

GREAT NEWS! Glad it worked out so well for you. Without sounding condescending, a Spicer yoke will never go bad on you but who knows where the O'reilly part was made. Most likely China and you do not want that end of the shaft swinging around under your truck if it lets go.

[centuryhouse]

Me too! ;-)
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[mike16]

your yokes look a little beat up. all that peaned over metal could be preventing the capsfrom moving around enough to come off. Been there, used a dremmel to clean things up but eventually mine, lookin kinda like yours, ......had to be replaced.

another thing to look for. back in the day, I dont know when GM started this practice. but they had nylon plastic devices meltedin to the caps to prevent them coming apart. Dont kow what they called themor how it all functioned but it was a common practice on new cars with new ujoints.

the service manual reccommended aplication of heat, enough to visualy watch they nylon melt out from its hole. when you achieved that the u joint came out easy. skip that step and you will not get the u joint out. This applies to factory new installed u joints. if the u joint is NROS then the nylon has already been done away with.

good luck

[centuryhouse]

There are 2 u-bolts and 4 nuts/washers that hold the rear u-joint in place at the rear differential.

Where can you get replacements for those u-bolts and nuts?

I notice mine keep coming loose after a few days of driving, and I have to keep tightening. I'm thinking about adding Loc-Tite. But I'd also like to replace them as they look pretty old and worn.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by centuryhouse

There are 2 u-bolts and 4 nuts/washers that hold the rear u-joint in place at the rear differential.

Where can you get replacements for those u-bolts and nuts?

I notice mine keep coming loose after a few days of driving, and I have to keep tightening. I'm thinking about adding Loc-Tite. But I'd also like to replace them as they look pretty old and worn.

They should be in the help section at any auto parts store.

I picked up my 2 piece driveshaft from the shop today. One of the things the tech told me was that those bolts only need to be torqued to 12 ft. Lbs. They should not come loose or need locktite.

[69chevytrucker]

is it just me or is there a big a$$ dent in that shaft

[centuryhouse]

Originally Posted by 69chevytrucker

is it just me or is there a big a$$ dent in that shaft

There is. Two actually. That's why I said next stop was the drive shaft shop. I brought that rear shaft in to them, and they told me to bring the truck so they could check out both shafts.

[MikeyMan]

Originally Posted by centuryhouse

There is. Two actually. That's why I said next stop was the drive shaft shop. I brought that rear shaft in to them, and they told me to bring the truck so they could check out both shafts.

Definitely get the shop to check out both the shafts.
You're probably out of balance and that's why your u-bolts & nuts are loosening.

[snipescastle2]

if it hasn't been said already, the factory injected plastic into the lock clip groove on the bearing caps on most vehicles back then, best to heat with a torch and press them out with either a vice and several sockets or a bearing press and/or a "C" clamp and some sockets. that should help.
Ben

[mike16]

nappa sells the hardware to retain the u jonts

time to replace them if they are comming loose

[centuryhouse]

Good to know, thanks!

[michael bustamante]

i just picked up a spicer yoke for a 700r for 20 bucks new myself. sounds like i got a helluva deal. glad things worked out good for you

[centuryhouse]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

i just picked up a spicer yoke for a 700r for 20 bucks new myself. sounds like i got a helluva deal. glad things worked out good for you

You got out cheaper than I did for a yoke