1971 350

[FirstRide]

I recently started working on my 1971 c10 that has a 350 in it and I went to replace the points being it hasn't ran in quite some time. And the auto parts store said that somebody had previously replaces the original point with uni points so I'm just curious what that means? And also there is a crack in my one manifold and I was curious what would be the best way to fix that? As of right now its going to be a stock motor for now so I don't know if headers are needed right now. Thanks

[FirstRide]

Stock motor other then a 4-barrel carb

[CastIron]

The points are just one piece points/condenser. You should be able reinstall a set of standard point with a separate condenser is you wanted too. Personally, I'd change it out to a 75-80 HEI style distributor for better reliability.
I don't think you can do much with a cracked manifold. You could just replace it with stock replacement part if you don't want to put headers on right now. The stock style works well with stock engines.

[FirstRide]

I just put a new set of unipoints on and it fired up after sitting for well over 6 years. Which would you recommend out stick manifold back on or just buy headers?

[Stocker]

I agree with castiron's post, consider HEI next time, and yes, stock manifold is best for a stock engine.

[FirstRide]

What would be a good hei to put in it? The only reason I just put the points in was because I wanted to see if I could get it to run before putting more money into it

[leftybass209]

The manifold has the potential to be repaired. I say potential because welding cast iron is difficult for the most experienced welders. They are available from a few different vendors for right around $100. You're best bet is to do that.

If you switch to headers, get a good quality set with a thick flange or the leaks you get from the headers will be just as bad as the leak you get from the cracked manifold, negating the switch in the first place.

There's always cost involved, but headers usually carry a whole ball of extra purchases you don't normally think of versus exhaust manifolds. Headers, exhaust, starter heat shield, plug wires, wire looms, spark plugs.

There's another thread regarding HEI distributors that should be right under this thread, have a look at it.

[Stocker]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=683864

[FirstRide]

Any recommendations on getting the manifold bolts out? For right now I'm thinking I'll just get a new manifold being there's added expense in getting headers and I don't think headers will benefit me any right now.

[GASoline71]

Remove exhaust manifold bolts carefully as they most likely are pretty rusted and can snap off. If they do snap off... pray they are not snapped off below the surface of the head.

Gary

[gkhashem]

Why such the downer on an original ignition? I have 3 vehicles a 1959 Cadillac, a 1966 Cadillac, and my 1970 GMC C1500 and they all still have the original ignitions.

They all run nice and have no issues other than gas draining out of the carburetor bowl on the 1966 and 1970, which I think can be corrected. It takes 5-6 pumps before a cold start when sitting for at least a week. The 1959 takes 3 pumps and off she goes.

When warm they start right up. They run fine. Is the HEI suggestion due to the fact that they are easier to tune up? Also a longer maintenance cycle on replacing the points is an issue too. But I just think if you got an original vehicle you should keep it as such as long as possible.

[FirstRide]

Can I put anything on them to hopefully help them coming out?

[FirstRide]

I'm thinking that people are recommending the hei for the fact that you don't have to set the points then. I was impressed that starting mine I went and bought new points and installed them and then tryed setting g the gap as close as I could (never worked on anything with points before) and its also been sitting for over 5 years not running and it fired right up with new points. V

[GASoline71]

Exactly... if you like points and don't mid setting the dwell and maintaining them... keep them in your rig. But the HEI systems are very reliable and an easy upgrade with hotter spark and less maintenance. No downer on points... HEI is just a better way to skin an old cat.

Gary

[FirstRide]

How much does a typical hei swap cost? For a reliable set

[Warrens69GMC]

Originally Posted by FirstRide

How much does a typical hei swap cost? For a reliable set

I went to pull-you-part salvage here in Tucson and bought the HEI and wires for it for our 1969 GMC with a 307 for $25. Mine came off a 305 out of a 1977 El Camino.

[Stocker]

Why HEI? With my K20, it's a royal PITA to reach the distributor and fiddle with points. I didn't enjoy it when I was much younger, and now that I am older, I wouldn't even consider doing it. As to originality, it's a working truck, not a show truck. I kept the old distributor though, just because.... well, for the same reason I kept pretty much all the other original stuff that's been replaced over the years.