question about the steering "rag joint"

[Bocephus69]

after a little searching online, i concluded the part i need to replace on my 69 C10 is the steering rag joint. now, i found this part in a couple different configurations......1. just the rubber and some hardware.....2. the couplers, rubber, and hardware.


so what would you need the couplers for? i have no removed the parts from my pickup yet, but in what instance would you need the steal couplers as well?


http://www.classicparts.com/1967-86-.../#.VhNb8-z4_cs

http://www.classicparts.com/1960-69-...info/SS-5151/#

[ViviensTractor5110]

Originally Posted by Bocephus69

after a little searching online, i concluded the part i need to replace on my 69 C10 is the steering rag joint. now, i found this part in a couple different configurations......1. just the rubber and some hardware.....2. the couplers, rubber, and hardware.


so what would you need the couplers for? i have no removed the parts from my pickup yet, but in what instance would you need the steal couplers as well?


http://www.classicparts.com/1967-86-.../#.VhNb8-z4_cs

http://www.classicparts.com/1960-69-...info/SS-5151/#

I use classicparts.com often myself....sometimes you get chinsy stuff but for the overall price I gamble. At any rate...one of those kits is to refurbish your existing rag joint so if your top and bottom plates are splinting up an those are in good shape you may opt to remove your rag and rebuild it. On the other option you would either be without a rag joint all together, or have one so mangled as to preclude you from rebuilding it. Mines due in fact. Good luck.
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[cdowns]

go to your local auto parts store they have the parts on the rack IN THE HELP SECTION BRING THE OLD ONE WITH YOU SO YOU CAN GET THE RIGHT STUFF IN ONE TRIP

[Jurassic-1]

I have tried using the repair kits. They are usually not too good in quality. The original rag joints have metal fiber to reinforce them but the replacement has nylon. It seems to allow play in the steering. It may be a good temporary fix but I would use a good replacement rag joint even though it will cost more money. In the end it is something you should not skimp on.

[boraxman]

Lares 201 from RockAuto.com is the best deal you will find for ready to bolt in, like $26 shipped:

[Bocephus69]

Originally Posted by boraxman

Lares 201 from RockAuto.com is the best deal you will find for ready to bolt in, like $26 shipped:

it looks like thats what i will be getting. i see it shows two different ones. ill have to clean the crud off of my shaft and measure it.... unless you know that the part number 201 will work on a 69?

[poway]

Originally Posted by boraxman

Lares 201 from RockAuto.com is the best deal you will find for ready to bolt in, like $26 shipped:

Rock Auto is where I bought mine!

[special-K]

Originally Posted by cdowns

go to your local auto parts store they have the parts on the rack IN THE HELP SECTION BRING THE OLD ONE WITH YOU SO YOU CAN GET THE RIGHT STUFF IN ONE TRIP

Which one, just the rubber or the whole joint? He was asking when you use one vs the other, not where. I agree going to your local parts house is still the best way to buy service parts

[mike16]

when I replaced mine I went to the local auto parts store and ended up buying two different kits. between those two and the origonal parts from my steering system. I was able to put together a rag joint that functioned safely and looked origonal.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Local parts stores are next to useless for these old tricks. Sometimes they have stuff but most of the times they don't.

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by EARNHARDT#3

Local parts stores are next to useless for these old tricks. Sometimes they have stuff but most of the times they don't.

I find lots of stuff at my local auto parts stores but I do know how to look

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by cdowns

I find lots of stuff at my local auto parts stores but I do know how to look

That's a good point as well. I spent some years working in parts. From dealership to "fast food parts" to an old school parts store so I usually help myself. Relying on most counter guys nowadays is frustrating. I order mostly everything online anymore because I research part numbers on the manufacturers websites then search for it and determine its correct. I like to support local businesses but Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts and Napa aren't local businesses anyway.

[leddzepp]

I research the part numbers I need online, then head to the local parts house. If you have a part number in hand they can quickly check if it's in stock or cross reference it for an alternative brand.

[franken]

Why quote rag joint?
I've read posts that say to never use the rebuild kits in the help section because it involves tightening a bolt on the rubber, which will always loosen.
We all know how good Asian rubber is.

Imagine no steering at 70MPH. What's your life worth?

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by franken

Why quote rag joint?
I've read posts that say to never use the rebuild kits in the help section because it involves tightening a bolt on the rubber, which will always loosen.
We all know how good Asian rubber is.

Imagine no steering at 70MPH. What's your life worth?

I believe thay are locking threads on the rag joint and no worry about it loosening up I have had them last over a hundred thouisand miles with no problems at upwards of 100mph

[leddzepp]

Here is a replacement write-up complete with part numbers:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=6907630

[franken]

Locking exactly where on what? It should be on metal, like a graded shoulder bolt. Either way, the Dorman parts are made in China. Zero QC.
How much our health insurance a month? Want to bet your life on a $10 part vs $70 over 10-20 years?
Do we buy the very cheapest ball joints, or try to buy US made? Hell, the boots disappear on the supposedly good ones.

[Bocephus69]

Originally Posted by franken

Locking exactly where on what? It should be on metal, like a graded shoulder bolt. Either way, the Dorman parts are made in China. Zero QC.
How much our health insurance a month? Want to bet your life on a $10 part vs $70 over 10-20 years?
Do we buy the very cheapest ball joints, or try to buy US made? Hell, the boots disappear on the supposedly good ones.

the computer/phone you typed this on was made in china too. im not supporting it, but its the truth. just because something says "GM" or "acdelco" ect doesnt mean squat now days. i hate to argue with you because i hate the truth. now days that cheep Chinese part is no different than the average priced Mexican part.