New HBalancer is coming off! What did I do wrong?

[Isaiah92260]

I installed a new H Balancer and water pump last weekend, so for be past 2 week my fan slightly hits the new double V Belt HBalancer when idling... Today it started hitting it really hard and when I opened the hood, "Holy Cow"! You can tell the H Balancer has been slidding off :/. It came off about a half inch or more.... What did I do wrong? I made sure I installed the woodruff key, and the crank snout did not look work out at all... I'm not gonna tap the crank and add a bolt, I don't have the tools and don't want to damage anything, I have to call out of my second job today so I can get the radiator off and hammer the HBalancer back on... My guess is that I may of not hammered in the Balancer in far enough when I had installed it... I have a 67' 250 4.1L

[PGSigns]

Sounds like the one you have is just a bit oversized. Put it on on with Loctite RC-609 retaining compound. It will stay.
Jimmy

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Sounds like the one you have is just a bit oversized. Put it on on with Loctite RC-609 retaining compound. It will stay.
Jimmy

Where can I get loctite at? Autozone or NAPA? if God forbids it happens again, ok gonna put loctite. It drove great on the way home.

[chevy_mike]

Yeah, what Jimmy said.

When I did my 250, I drilled and tapped the hole before installing the balancer and was able to use a standard balancer installer instead of pounding it on. If I remember, didn't your old one have problems. Was the whole balancer sliding back and forth or was it just the outer ring? I don't recall. If the whole balancer was doing it, my guess is the snout wore down enough the new one is not tight once everything heats up.

[Fredthecat]

Don't know this motor, however, on Jeep 4.0 and 4.2 I6 I have experienced HB separation....the outer pulley is rubber bonded to the inner (crank mating part)...thus allowing outer pulley to migrate forward and hit fan.

Something to check.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

Yeah, what Jimmy said.

When I did my 250, I drilled and tapped the hole before installing the balancer and was able to use a standard balancer installer instead of pounding it on. If I remember, didn't your old one have problems. Was the whole balancer sliding back and forth or was it just the outer ring? I don't recall. If the whole balancer was doing it, my guess is the snout wore down enough the new one is not tight once everything heats up.

Thanks for your reply
Yes It slid right off when I took everything apart and replaced theBalancer, it work out really bad on the inside, the Snout look really good to me, but my judgment could be srong

[BigDan3131]

What do you mean your not going to tap the crank? There should already be threads in it, unless you mashed them removing the old one. The balancer bolt is what keeps it on, its spinning at thousands of rpm every day of its life and to think that a woodruff key is the only thing holding it in place is dead wrong. Its only there to keep the rotation correct for your timing. You better get in there with a tap unless the bolt snapped off leaving it flush.

I'm only saying this because my 65 has one and every Chevy I own has one.

[Dans1960SWB]

Big Dan you better do some research. Most all early 283/327 and most sixes the balancer just got hammered on. They never had a threaded hole. Some have the hole but no threads and some don't even have the hole. I would just use the lock tite. Drilling and tapping the hole isn't a really big deal.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Dans1960SWB

Big Dan you better do some research. Most all early 283/327 and most sixes the balancer just got hammered on. They never had a threaded hole. Some have the hole but no threads and some don't even have the hole. I would just use the lock tite. Drilling and tapping the hole isn't a really big deal.

Thanks for replying
If I were to tap and drill, where do I find the right bolt at?

[Dans1960SWB]

My local speed shop has the bolt and washer. It is 7/16 fine thread if I remember correctly...

[chevy_mike]

That is correct 7/16 fine thread. It's the same as a SBC bolt and washer. I took one off an old engine I had but any of the aftermarket ones work.

If the balancer came off by hand, even if the snout looks "fine" it likely wore it down a few thousands. Since it relies on a interference fit (i.e. the snout is slight larger than the hole in the balancer), the Loctite and bolting it might not be enough to keep it from moving slightly. You're definitely going to have to tap it.

Good luck!

[scott657]

I think you can put a redi sleeve or micro sleeve on the shaft that will make it more snug

[Dans1960SWB]

Nope the sleeve is for the seal surface of the balancer. Thats the outside of the shaft..

[1971 GMC SHORTY]

Back in the day my timing Gears Went out on my I didn't like idea of hammering Balancer, So I just Tapped It 7/16 and used Balancer Installing Tool I Didn't want Damage Thrust Bearing Buy Hammering Balancer On!!!!

[Isaiah92260]

Thank you everyone for replying and sharing your help.... If I go to NAPA tomorrow, would I be able to find that Bolt? And if I can, how should I describe it for them? Could I say the same bolt of off a 283 v8 or something? The local NAPA has workers the know nothing about old motors so sometimes it's a challenge for them to help me .-.

[Isaiah92260]

Also, does anyone know where I could find a alternator bracket? For some reason the one I have is bent in the center and swing inward at the end, at all angles, I can't seem to get the alternator line up properly with the balancer and fan pulleys, it's off at about less that a quarter of an inch.

[Dans1960SWB]

I think the hole is already there just not threaded. You need a bolt from anyou small block chevy...BBC is bigger I believe...I can measure one if you would like. It does have a super thick washer that goes under the head..

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Dans1960SWB

I think the hole is already there just not threaded. You need a bolt from anyou small block chevy...BBC is bigger I believe...I can measure one if you would like. It does have a super thick washer that goes under the head..

Yes please to measurements,

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by Dans1960SWB

I think the hole is already there just not threaded. You need a bolt from anyou small block chevy...BBC is bigger I believe...I can measure one if you would like. It does have a super thick washer that goes under the head..

No, the hole is not there. There is a starting dimple about 1/4" deep. I found that I used a 1/4" drill bit (IIRC) and did the first drill into the crank. The I stepped up a few sizes, drilled and then to the final tap size. Basically three drill bits to get to the tap size. Then tapped the hole. Being cast iron crank, it drills and taps very easily.

Make sure you get the correct drill size for the tap you are going to use. No getting close, get the right one.

As for the bolt, Mr. Gasket has them (most auto parts places have Mr. Gasket stuff) or you can order it Amazon.com: Mr. Gasket 945G Harmonic Balancer...
Take your time.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

No, the hole is not there. There is a starting dimple about 1/4" deep. I found that I used a 1/4" drill bit (IIRC) and did the first drill into the crank. The I stepped up a few sizes, drilled and then to the final tap size. Basically three drill bits to get to the tap size. Then tapped the hole. Being cast iron crank, it drills and taps very easily.

Make sure you get the correct drill size for the tap you are going to use. No getting close, get the right one.

As for the bolt, Mr. Gasket has them (most auto parts places have Mr. Gasket stuff) or you can order it Amazon.com: Mr. Gasket 945G Harmonic Balancer Bolt Kit: Automotive

Take your time.

Okay thank for your information! I'm gonna head to NAPA today Nd get the bolt and washers, I found that I do have the 7/16-20 tap and drill to make the threads, I am going to do it over the weekend...

Now my last question, after I tap the hole and get out the puller the push in the balancer, is it possible to push it in too far? Or once it stops, that means it's good and then fasten the bolt on? I believe I read that it is possible to push it in too far but I might be wrong. I just want to make sure I get enough info before I do the job.
Thanks

[BigDan3131]

Well actually my 327 came out of a 1965 Corvette and it did have the bolt and so did the 327 in my 64 Chevelle. Besides it isn't that hard to tap, just like anything take your time and lube well.

[61K10]

I drilled one like chevy_mike did (I thank a 327) years ago. you can use any 7/16 grade 8 bolt and just add 2 or 3 washers as the org had a thick washer. don't make it to complicated.

[chevy_mike]

Front should basically be flush with end of the crank.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

Front should basically be flush with end of the crank.

Thank you for the picture for an example, that helps a lot, btw nice attention to detail

I just got back from NAPA and bought the bolt 7/16-20
I got a shorter one that's about 1"1/2, the one NAPA had first showed me was about 2"1/2 and I felt that would be too long.

[61K10]

make sure you have the right drill bit. don't use a 7/16 drill bit for the hole. the size of bit to use should be on the tap.