C30 Crossmember question

[64chevtruck]

Hi guys, do people pancake the CMs on duallys like is done to half tons>? I have looked for 2 hours and found no info on it,

How bout Z frames on duallys>?

Please direct me to any threads you know of with this info,

Thanks in advance

[Ghostwhite]

I should know this as I have a c30 but check to see if your crossmember sits below the lowest portion of the frame. If not that is why you don't see anyone pancake the member as its not needed to lay frame.

If you wanted to lay body there is another whole set of mods you would need to do, chopping the bottom of the frame off and a Z is one way and chopping the top of the frame off and moving the body mounts is another.

There is another great resource specific to duallys and C30s at duallyscene.

Also DblTrbl has a good thread going HERE that has some great info.

[slotard]

I've certainly seen some builds here that were duallys with SFBD.

[64chevtruck]

Thank you Ghost, Im going through that thread right now,

Thanks Slot, Ill search SFBD now :}

[slotard]

It took me a while to figure out what it meant, once I figured out it made sense (pretty sure it's SubFrame Body Drop).

[tinydb84]

SFDB = Stock floor body drop.

You would section some of the frame height out to lower the cab while keeping the floor stock.

I don't know about C30's but C20's crossmember/arms are the lowest part.

[Ghostwhite]

If you tell us your intentions we will be better able to make some suggestions.

[64chevtruck]

Oh no problem, Lower it to the ground ACAP. (as cheap as possible) Leave it unfinished and drive the wheels off it. It will be used like a car for the rest of its life with me.

The lower the better.

[bbbc10]

I see one problem cheap as possible

[64chevtruck]

I hear ya. I just meant I'l be doing all my own cutting, grinding, and welding. Not opening a big box of shiny porter built stuff.....

[SCOTI]

I sectioned mine 1.5".

With the frame rails on the ground, my front lower a-arms are about 1.5" off the ground. With my frame @ ride height (factory rails @ 5"), that extra 1.5" means better clearance.

If you're 'Z-ing' the frame, it's not worth messing w/the crossmember.

[DblTrbl]

For what it's worth...I've got roughly $500 in steel so far for my SFBD and I'm nearing completion of the heavy fab work. The cost involved isn't too bad considering the end result, but it's a TON of work.

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I sectioned mine 1.5".

With the frame rails on the ground, my front lower a-arms are about 1.5" off the ground. With my frame @ ride height (factory rails @ 5"), that extra 1.5" means better clearance.

If you're 'Z-ing' the frame, it's not worth messing w/the crossmember.

I initially sectioned a spare crossmember but ended up wanting to go lower. Much easier to do the crossmember than a Z btw.

Originally Posted by DblTrbl

For what it's worth...I've got roughly $500 in steel so far for my SFBD and I'm nearing completion of the heavy fab work. The cost involved isn't too bad considering the end result, but it's a TON of work.

^^^this. I stop by the steel shop when I am free and grab all the 3/16'' I can find in the remnants. I think I have $40 in my SFBD and the same in my rear notch. I don't even know if I have that much in my Z. I ended up spending $300 in my steering linkage though.

But damn it is a lot of work!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I initially sectioned a spare crossmember but ended up wanting to go lower. Much easier to do the crossmember than a Z btw.

^^^this. I stop by the steel shop when I am free and grab all the 3/16'' I can find in the remnants. I think I have $40 in my SFBD and the same in my rear notch. I don't even know if I have that much in my Z. I ended up spending $300 in my steering linkage though.

But damn it is a lot of work!

I agree w/this statement. But when you do the work & it's not enough (thus requiring a Z or something else as well), seems it would be easier to just do the Z by itself to begin with.

I like sectioning the x-member because it does not change the position of the motor/drivetrain like the Z will. Helps minimize that domino effect. While it's not 3", the 1.5" difference still can help (especially w/ground clearance @ similar ride heights vs not doing it).

[64chevtruck]

Hi, Ive had tranny and exhaust dragging on the ground on past builds so I dont mind the idea of moving the motor and stuff up with a Z,

But last night as I was scraping my CM getting ready to section it I was going through spare parts,,,,

In the pile I found a sectioned half ton CM, some half ton drop spindles, some LCAs that are already cupped, a later front end with disks, some bags, plates and more.

Im going to bolt in my half ton sectioned crossmember and switch the whole front end to half ton,

Ill get rid of the dually front rims and other problems, (Dually drop spindles were 400 dollars too!)

Ive already mocked this up and it looks like it will work,

Like I said before, This truck is not going to be used like a truck anymore anyway, so half ton front end seems fine,

I plan on doing whatever it takes to get this truck on the ground, it is the longest one, it should also be the lowest one I think,



PS Just to clarify...I wish I WAS opening a box of shiny PB stuff

[SCOTI]

What about the rear?

[DblTrbl]

Originally Posted by 64chevtruck

Hi, Ive had tranny and exhaust dragging on the ground on past builds so I dont mind the idea of moving the motor and stuff up with a Z,

But last night as I was scraping my CM getting ready to section it I was going through spare parts,,,,

In the pile I found a sectioned half ton CM, some half ton drop spindles, some LCAs that are already cupped, a later front end with disks, some bags, plates and more.

Im going to bolt in my half ton sectioned crossmember and switch the whole front end to half ton,

Ill get rid of the dually front rims and other problems, (Dually drop spindles were 400 dollars too!)

Ive already mocked this up and it looks like it will work,

Like I said before, This truck is not going to be used like a truck anymore anyway, so half ton front end seems fine,

I plan on doing whatever it takes to get this truck on the ground, it is the longest one, it should also be the lowest one I think,



PS Just to clarify...I wish I WAS opening a box of shiny PB stuff

I'd be afraid that you're going to run into some big problems. Not that it can't be done, but there are some significant differences between the c10 frame and the c30 frame, not the least of which is the frame height where the crossmember bolts on. Even Porterbuilt has stated that "the c30 crossmember is an animal all to its own". Nate doesn't sell the c10 drop members to be installed on c30's.

All of that being said, sectioned member or not, you'll still be 3.5" up without a SFBD...and by the time you go through all of that trouble, why not just Z the frame while you have the welder out and truck disassembled...

[DblTrbl]

They run about $270 shipped.

[64chevtruck]

Ok thanks, If I had clip on calipers I could get them for that on ebay, I have bolt on ones though and the cheapest I just found was 317, better than 400