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Old 12-21-2015, 07:59 PM   #1
SnowNeck
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14 bolts

So, I'm currently looking into doing a 3/4 axle swap into my 1/2 ton and what exactly is the difference between a full float rear and a semi float rear?
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:02 PM   #2
RedRoad
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Re: 14 bolts

with a semi floater if the axle breaks you loose a tire as the axle is held in with a c clip at the diff side. On a full floater you can remove the entire axle just by unbolting it from the hub and sliding it out, the hub/bearings/brakes/tire still are secured and will roll if need be.

The SF 14 bolt comes in both 6 and 8 lug versions while FF only comes in 8 lug. If keeping the 6 lug I would swap in the SF as it is much stronger than the factory 12 bolt
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
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with a semi floater if the axle breaks you loose a tire as the axle is held in with a c clip at the diff side. On a full floater you can remove the entire axle just by unbolting it from the hub and sliding it out, the hub/bearings/brakes/tire still are secured and will roll if need be.

The SF 14 bolt comes in both 6 and 8 lug versions while FF only comes in 8 lug. If keeping the 6 lug I would swap in the SF as it is much stronger than the factory 12 bolt
So, would it be possible to swap a 6 lug shaft into a FF?
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:32 PM   #4
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Re: 14 bolts

No.

The full float rear works just like the front. It has two wheel bearings, an inner and an outer and the preload is adjusted with a big socket.

The 6 lug axles are semi-floaters having just one axle bearing and held with a C-clip.

There are no OEM 6 lug hubs to do the full floater, but it is possible to make it work with machine work and due diligence, but it's not an easy "bolt it in" prospect.
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:14 PM   #5
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No.

The full float rear works just like the front. It has two wheel bearings, an inner and an outer and the preload is adjusted with a big socket.

The 6 lug axles are semi-floaters having just one axle bearing and held with a C-clip.

There are no OEM 6 lug hubs to do the full floater, but it is possible to make it work with machine work and due diligence, but it's not an easy "bolt it in" prospect.
Ah, okay thank you. Yeah I've always kinda of had mixed answers about the two. I appreciate all the help guys
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Old 12-22-2015, 12:29 AM   #6
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Re: 14 bolts

There aren't many downsides to the full float, but there are absolutely some... namely size and weight. The pumpkin on the 14FF is BIG, it hangs way down. You can shave it to make it less bad, but you'll still lose clearance vs whatever you have now. The other is weight, which isn't as important in most cases but makes pulling them yourself difficult at best.

The 14FF is pretty bulletproof, my old neighbor ran a 14FF with a locker (I forget what), shaved but nothing to make it stronger, on his J10 rock crawler on I think 42s. Don't think he ever broke anything on it. The 14FF G80 locker is reasonably strong and should hold up unless you really beat on it with big tires, it's way better than the lighter duty ones.
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:08 AM   #7
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Re: 14 bolts

Here is an 80 year old Chevrolet sales training video explaining the concept of full-floating axles. The concept is still the same today regardless of axle manufacturers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aVj7JSpSpU
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:00 AM   #8
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Re: 14 bolts

Why 3/4 axles when your front axle is the same as a 1/2 ton but for the lug pattern?If your gonna spend the time an money go 1 ton axles.A dana 60 for the front can be pricey but some people can find them cheap enough,Or the dodge dana 60 from a leaf spring truck will fit.All you need is these http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dod...apBushings.htm to run that dodge axle.
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Old 12-22-2015, 09:20 AM   #9
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Re: 14 bolts

If I remember right, you can get aftermarket 6 lug axles for the 14 bolt ff... but it's been a while since I looked...
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Old 12-22-2015, 09:44 AM   #10
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Re: 14 bolts

The difference is with semi-floating axles the weight of the vehicle bears on the axle shaft. It's bearing in housing with axle on bearing. With full floating axles the weight bears on the housing with the shaft "floating". It's bearing in hub with hub on husing. The shaft just spins and takes torque. Much less stress on the shaft. This is why heavier trucks ALL use this design. Semi-floaters are thensame design as cars.
I put 3/4t axles in my '85 Jimmy. sure, it's the same axle I took out, except it has bigger brakes for the bigger/heavier tires.It was easier and cheaper than changing the 1/2t 10-bolt to 4.10 as well. Also, 8-lugs are stronger than 6 and the studs are bigger. I've broken studs on 6-lug trucks and never on an 8-lug. It makes total sense. It's an easy swap and prices between 1t and 3/4t don't even compare. Not to mention a Dana44 or 10-bolt can take a lot more than people give them credit for. It's cool to say you have a Dana60, but many out there will never do what a 1/2t-3/4t could do. I've torn up Dana60s and when it comes to buying parts, you'll spend a heap more money.
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Old 12-22-2015, 02:14 PM   #11
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Re: 14 bolts

I have some 6 lug hubs available for the 14 bolt full float if you want to go that far. Actually I have some 5 lug also. At that point though you'll have to convert to disc brake
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:45 AM   #12
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Re: 14 bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by special-K View Post
The difference is with semi-floating axles the weight of the vehicle bears on the axle shaft. It's bearing in housing with axle on bearing. With full floating axles the weight bears on the housing with the shaft "floating". It's bearing in hub with hub on husing. The shaft just spins and takes torque. Much less stress on the shaft. This is why heavier trucks ALL use this design. Semi-floaters are thensame design as cars.
I put 3/4t axles in my '85 Jimmy. sure, it's the same axle I took out, except it has bigger brakes for the bigger/heavier tires.It was easier and cheaper than changing the 1/2t 10-bolt to 4.10 as well. Also, 8-lugs are stronger than 6 and the studs are bigger. I've broken studs on 6-lug trucks and never on an 8-lug. It makes total sense. It's an easy swap and prices between 1t and 3/4t don't even compare. Not to mention a Dana44 or 10-bolt can take a lot more than people give them credit for. It's cool to say you have a Dana 60, but many out there will never do what a 1/2t-3/4t could do. I've torn up Dana60s and when it comes to buying parts, you'll spend a heap more money.
I 2nd that, I only have 3/4 ton 4x4 trucks, they are soooo strong compared to 1/2 ton axles, you don't need a dana 60, just upgrading to full floater in the rear and dana 44 or 10 bolt , with 8 lugs, will be a huge improvement for you and they will bolt right in and not cost you a fortune
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